Seven Miles El Progresso | Spelunking in Belize | Belize has hundreds of caves across the country. Located in Maya mountain, Barton Creek Cave extends

across - Fernwayer Travel Stories & Experiences

Belize

Belize has hundreds of caves across the country. Located in Maya mountain, Barton Creek Cave extends 2 miles through stalactites and stalagmites and various other limestone formations with a river running through its length.

Mayans used the cave for religious ceremonies with more than 28 human remains found buried in the cave with food offerings, cooking pots, tools and hearths. Mayans believed the caves connected the living world and the underworld. 

Canoeing through the darkness guided by our headlamp and guide, we spotted skulls and pottery cemented Into the limestone. A solemn but exciting experience!

Spelunking in Belize

United States

Bolivia

Driving in the wet season in Salar de Uyuni, it feels like you are in a sailboat on the ocean - splashing in the water and watching mesmerizing reflections of the sky. It’s incredibly surreal.

The newly discovered planet Crait in The Last Jedi was set in this breathtaking and luminous salt-covered land. We stay in a gleaming Airstream parked on the salt lake, and are greeted by a salt version of R2D2 that apparently starred in the movie.

On a still day at the start of the rainy season, a thin layer of water covers the salt, forming a great mirror reflecting the sky. It’s disorienting, because you can’t judge distance or perspective. 

The Salar is so flat across its 10,000 square kilometres, that the surface is used to calibrate the altimeters on board earth’s satellites. At dusk, we watch the International Space Station slowly cruising past in the sky above us, like a bright star, and we watch lightning in the horizon all around us.

Sky Above, Sky Below

Canada

Someone described #Churchill as “the warmest coldest tundra town”. It is a friendly, curious town. It also claims to have 300 days of northern lights. 

Basically, if you happen to be in Churchill on a clear night, prepare to wake up, dress up in layers (quickly), and be enthralled. 

Last Sunday night, when most had turned back in after what looked like an “average” aurora display, we waited and were rewarded with lovely green ribbons and curtains.

Dancing Dragons Across The Sky

Ethiopia

In Lalibela, I am moved by the devotion and faith of pilgrims who have walked for weeks, and hundreds of miles across the country, to celebrate Genna - Ethiopia’s Christmas - on January 7. Here, the year is 2011, since Ethiopia still observes a pre-Julian calendar. I am immediately taken in by the idea of being 7 years younger, albeit for a fleeting moment.

Pilgrims arrive early - between midnight to 5 am -  to get a prized standing spot inside the tiny but iconic Biete Gyorgis. As I watch pilgrims read from their bibles, often from inside their shroud, using a candle or torch, I realize I’ve never seen such fervor in worship. 

☦️
By 6:30 am, Biete Giyorgis, the iconic rock-hewn church of Lalibela, has no more standing space, so these pilgrims huddle outside and around trees and pray from their copies of the Bible, guided by the chanting from the church, that fills the air with spirituality. It’s poetic and beautiful.

Faith

Faroe Islands

Getting there on a little ferry tossed around on the surging Atlantic Ocean needs courage. As the boat uses all her resources to maneuver into a tight, rocky harbor, I wonder if the captain, who does this twice a day, is either extremely brave or completely suicidal. We step on to what looks like the sets of a Disney fantasy movie. Twenty colorful grass-roofed homes, one little schoolhouse - which has one child - and a bridge over the Atlantic.

I meet my guide Harald - a septuagenarian with poise to rival the curious sheep we see hanging precariously over the cliffs. Harald leads our little group on a 4-hour hike across the island to the lighthouse at the westernmost point of the Faroes.

Birds are everywhere - puffins, fulmars, kittiwakes, gannets - on the green hills, riding the ocean waves, occupying every inch of cliff space, filling the air with their calls, and circling the sky.

Beakful of fish

Guatemala

The spectacular Mayan ruins of Tikal overrun by miles of  unspoiled jungle are extraordinarily rich in wildlife incl. the elusive jaguar. 🐆 

It’s one of the few UNESCO World Heritage sites that combines both cultural and natural richness and the 500+ sq km contains numerous remains of the Mayan civilization scattered across wetlands, savannah and tropical jungles teaming with birds and monkeys.

It was a thrilling experience to wander in a place that was one of the great cities of the world around 700 AD and wonder how people lived at that time. 

We went late afternoon to take advantage of the magical light falling on the structures and our guide, Daveed, was very helpful in highlighting the important sites and the life at that time. We enjoyed watching the sunset from the top of Temple IV. A perfect filming location for Yavin 4 in Star Wars.

After the sunset, we walked in the fading light to the spectacular Grand Plaza, relieved in Daveed’s assurance that the 🐆 is shy of humans.

Pyramids of Tikal

Italy

On a sunrise photo-walk, we are at Piazza San Marco. At 5AM, it’s empty, other than for a few pigeons, and a photo enthusiast like ourselves. And we run across - with tripods - to get to the Canal looking out towards San Giorgio Maggiore Island.

Our objective? To watch and photograph gondolas swaying in the canals of Venice. It’s perfect for long exposure shots. The gondolas and docks are lit up by street lights and the sky has the perfect blend of dark and light.

We then rush over to the vaporetto stand near Europa & Regina Hotel overlooking Basilica di Santa Maria della Salute, for another Gondola scene (pictured) while the light is still good.

So, how many gondolas can you get into one frame?

We head out down the Grand Canal to the Rialto Fish Market. Some sellers are packing up after a good morning, but we’re able to get some great shots of everyday life. 

We walk back over Rialto bridge (great for photos of activity on the Canal) back to the hotel for breakfast.

How Many Gondolas?

Mexico

The Mayan culture is one of the most important indigenous cultures in Southern Mexico. Artifacts from bygone times stretch far across the jungles of Quintana Roos and Chiapas. 

If you want to learn more about how indigenous peoples lived before colonization, don't miss the ruins of Palenque. Arguably the largest Mayan ruins on the continent, they're tucked away, deeply hidden in the Mexican jungle. The highlights of the actual ruins are the numerous temples, a palace and aqueducts, and of course, a guided tour where you can learn all about Mexico's history. If you venture out into the jungle, you'll encounter rare wildlife like monkeys, colorful birds, and giant snakes.

Take sunscreen, plenty of water, and some snacks, as the tour takes at least half a day.

Visit Ancient Mayan Ruins

Colombia

Oaxaca is the most diverse state in Mexico, with the richest history of indigenous peoples and consequently the most fascinating and vibrant folk art in the country. In Oaxaca are so many different indigenous groups spread across numerous villages, and each of them is known for their unique works of art, from rugs to pottery, flowers, and paintings.

Street art in Oaxaca tells stories about Mexico, their struggles for independence and economic development, and against military dictatorship and US American influence. You can learn a lot from indigenous rights to natural disasters through street art in Oaxaca by walking through the streets and analyzing each mural.

For art lovers only

Morocco

In Marrakech, explore the labyrinth of the medina, lined with market stalls and craftspeople, and full of secret places and contradictions. 

Anonymous, windowless, fortress-like walls enclose luxurious riads built around tiled courtyards, complete with fountains and gardens.

Happily, my wonderful guide Khadija of Morocco Private Experience, encourages my curiosity. She leads the way across the medieval labyrinth of chaotic alleyways - to the souks where centuries-old skills continue to flourish. 

I am intrigued about how all the craftspeople are clustered together by trade. We watch a metal craftsman shape a pair of gnawa cymbals. A leatherworker allows me inside his workshop for a better view. There is an entire street of ornate lantern sellers - the bronze-latticed lanterns competing with the palm-leafed roofs of the souks in throwing light-and-shadow patterns all around.

Heart and Souk

Norway

What does teetering on the edge of the ocean feel like? 
🌊
The Atlantic Road is an 8-kilometre roller-coaster stretch of road between Kristiansund and Molde. 
🌉
It skips nimbly from island to island, across seven curvy bridges. The tallest of them, Storseisundet, has a dramatic rise/fall and an impossibly artistic curve. At the highest point, I can actually see the other bridges connecting the tiny islands ahead. 
🎣 
In contrast, the bridge nearby - from where I take this photo - is flat, specially constructed for anglers - and the woman standing next to me comes here every day to catch her meal fresh. She demonstrates how she is only finding small pollock this evening - and calmly proceeds to slash the just-caught fish’s throat before dropping it into her nearly-full bucket. Too much Information, I tell her. She laughs. 
❤️ 
On the hillock opposite the bridge, I count seven pairs of people holding hands and looking out to the water. 
🎢
It is that kind of view.

Roller Coaster

I N G R E D I E N T S 
One persistent cloud
Assorted resident ghosts
Longest fjord you can find
Pinch of recklessness

D I R E C T I O N S
1. Drive to Flåm. Navigate hairpin bends and tunnels alongside World Heritage fjords. If you plan well, you can even include the 24.5 km Lærdal Tunnel in your route – an engineering phenomenon, with psychedelic lighting.

2. When you encounter an astonishingly long cloud, you know you have arrived. “Flåm” means "little place between steep mountains”. Perfect for cycling and hiking.

3. Stay at the historic Fretheim Hotel – architecturally delightful, white wooden building located at the head of a mighty fjord. The historic rooms are described as places ‘where the atmosphere from the 1800s still lingers’.

4. Try to get up before 10 AM for an exhilarating RIB boat ride across to World Heritage Nærøyfjord.

5. Take the 2-hour round trip Flåm Railway to Myrdal. Climb 900m and see stunning views that only a hairpin tunnel that twists 180° can provide.

Viking Mashup

Svalbard & Jan Mayen

We arrive by RIB boat from Longyearbyen, dressed in survival suits, across a choppy Arctic Sea, with puffins and seals for company.

Isfjord Radio on Cape Linné, is an abandoned strategic communications station, with a decidedly interesting past, now converted into a stylish expedition lodge. 

Nothing could have prepared me for the extreme sense of isolation and wilderness. 

Imagine sitting all alone at latitude 79 degrees north and watching polar bears prowling outside the kitchen window. Two days ago, that is exactly what the staff at Isfjord Radio did.  After all, Svalbard’s travel slogan reads: “3000 polar bears, 2500 humans”. 

Hiking into the middle of nowhere, or along the coast looking for 1500-kilo walruses, is done with licensed guides, a couple of mandatory rifles for protection and huskies for company. It is a beautiful, stark landscape, filled with mystery and a sense of the unknown. 

Which direction should we head? Anywhere you want to go, comes the reply.

Extreme Wilderness

Staying at the Inn at Death Valley, we thought we would be able to get up just before sunrise and make a dash over to Zabriskie Point. In hind sight, we should have woken up a good 60 minutes earlier, since the viewpoint was packed with people as we got there. 


The stunning views of the badlands slowly fill up with yellow, orange, purple and brown colors - and every hue in between - as the sun comes up, totally makes up for the early rise. Once the sun has finished painting the badlands, it reaches out to color in the Panamint Range across the valley with gorgeous pinks and purples. If you want to avoid the crowds, do the 2.5 mile Badlands Loop hike. Right after the walk, you can drive the short 3 mile Twenty Mule Team Canyon loop drive before returning to Stovepipe Wells for breakfast. 

We had been told that the Death Valley National Park is all about extremes - and the Zabriskie Point is a visual representation of that.

Belize

Cayo District

Spelunking in Belize

Bolivia

Potosi Department

Sky Above, Sky Below

Canada

Manitoba

Dancing Dragons Across The Sky

Ethiopia

Amhara

Faith

Faroe Islands

Mykines

Beakful of fish

Guatemala

Petén Department

Pyramids of Tikal

Italy

Veneto

How Many Gondolas?

Mexico

Chiapas

Visit Ancient Mayan Ruins

Oaxaca

For art lovers only

Morocco

Marrakesh-Safi

Heart and Souk

Norway

Møre og Romsdal

Roller Coaster

Vestland

Viking Mashup

Svalbard & Jan Mayen

Svalbard

Extreme Wilderness

United States

California

Painting with Light