Fogo Island Region | Far Away From Far Away | A visit to Fogo Island is all about the power of culture, art and community as catalysts for social and 

ice - Fernwayer Travel Stories & Experiences

Canada

A visit to Fogo Island is all about the power of culture, art and community as catalysts for social and economic change. It’s a story of the indomitable spirit of people who refuse to give up their land.

First Impressions?  Minimalist winter scenery, it’s 🧊 season, one of Fogo Island’s seven  seasons. There are wooden Saltbox Houses, that must have leaped out of a child’s painting book. Reminders of fishing are everywhere. 

My favorite part of the trip is spending time with the islanders who do community orientations and cabin outings for visitors. These are people who are proud of their Irish or English heritage (seven or eight generations in Fogo Island notwithstanding) — who sing songs and tell stories of their ancestors, invite strangers into their homes to share salted cod and tea, take you on ski-doo for ice-fishing, teach you to forage for berries and show you how to preserve vegetables in mason jars to last through winter.

Far Away From Far Away

United States

Chile

What does the southern end of the world look like? After five and a half l-o-n-g hours from Punta Arenas, out of the blue appears Hotel Explora Salto Chico - and it’s breathtaking. With a stunning, modern countenance, views-to-die-for of Torres del Paine (the Towers) and Cuernos del Paine (the Horns), and the sound of the Salto Chico waterfall as we linger over amazing food and excellent Chilean wine. 
🦙
The Explora guides ensure they get us out of bed. My favorite experience - a day-long hike to Grey glacier. And when we get really close, our guides hop into a little boat to fetch thousand-year-old ice from the glacier for little drinks of Pisco Sour! 

Patagonia’s Parc Nacional Torres del Paine has picture postcard views everywhere. If you are a keen hiker, try the Circuit or the W. I stick to day hikes as a rule - if you are like me, try Grey Glacier, French Valley Glacier or Base of the Paine Towers.

Going to Extremes

Greenland

Disko Bay is the Iceberg Factory for 10% of Greenland's icebergs. Sadly, production has increased in recent years, with Spring melts as early as April.

Nothing prepares you for the disorientation - and wonderment - of the brilliance of a midnight Sun. Especially when surrounded by massive icebergs that reflect and mirror the sky and the sea.

I don't remember seeing this yesterday, I tell the boat captain, is this a new work of art? He laughs, and tells me that everyday is  a bit different. 

The midnight boat trip in end-July - as the sun sets just for a few minutes - is the best time to see the sky’s amazing colors reflected on the icebergs.

Iceberg Factory

Iceland

This being a ‘chill trip’, we did not want to hike 10 hours on a glacier. Instead we trek on the Vatnajokull glacier looking for ice caves with wind on our face and ice under our feet.

Earlier, we woke up at 7 and drive in cold and windy January to Skaftafell National Park to meet Einar, our guide. 

This cave... like others ... started forming In August but you are never sure it will be stable to explore till later. In September, the loose ceiling collapsed  and this brilliant cave was formed.

These fragile and transitory structure require constant maintenance from falling rock and melting icicles. Einer enters the cave and spots a few boulders on the roof. He removes them to prevent harm to the cave and us. 

As we move around, the cave looks different as our viewing angle and the sunlight outside changes.

We are in complete awe ... and hungry. Luckily a steaming meal of lamb and potatoes is close by.

Ice Caving

On the epic Ring Road drive (A1) in East Iceland, there’s a black sand beach called Stokksnes, just a few kilometres from Höfn. 

A gravel road gets you to a tiny cafeteria - where you can pay a small fee to drive further in till the edge of the water. 

Volcanic black sand dunes, Tall green grasses. Waves breaking on the rocks. Wind. Reflections in the water. Incredible beauty. Pure zen.

Pure Zen

United Kingdom

On a snowy winter evening, we stand on a ridge and see the brightly-lit church through the mist ... an evocative but calming place. 

Very different from 1000 years ago as Vikings stood here and declared the laws of the land ... the oldest continuous two weeks in the summer parliament. People heard from their leaders, settled disputes and traded.

The best part of the Golden Circle circuit, Thingvellir National Park has hiking trails, waterfalls, summer cottages for the affluent (singer Björk has a home) and the Silfra fissure divers can explore between the American and Euroasian tectonic plates.

The sky is changing color. We should leave, we tell each other ... but we are drawn to the scenery like a moth to the flame.

Northern Mists

Continuing my recommendations for a stunning drive to the South of Iceland -

1. From Dyrhólaey to Vik: Stop at Dyrhólaey for its sea arch and basalt blocks - turn from the Ring Road to the right to road 218, and drive that road to an end, you should see puffins at Reynisfjall cliffs, at Arnardrangur "Eagle rock” (very picturesque with Reynisdrangar and Reynisfjara in the background), at low tide, you can walk along the black beach and discover little caves and rock formations, and finally, the little village of Vik with its stunning black sand beach and sea stacks, worth visiting both at sunset and sunrise.

2.  From Vik to Stokksnes Headland. You will want to stop for pictures of the moss-filled lava flows on the sides of the highway. Go to Skaftafell Glacier National Park for a glacier walk. Then pause at Fjallsárlón glacial lagoon, a nice precursor to Jökulsárlón. I’ve always found sitting on the lagoon and watching the icebergs (barely) floating by absolutely therapeutic.

Icelandic Road Trip - Part 2

I love Iceland for many reasons. The road trips are magical - and so is the light - perfect for photography. These are my recommendations for a drive from Reykjavik to the South of Iceland. 

1. Þingvellir National Park: Go to the Visitor’s Center for a great view, and get a driving map, or suggestions from there. Find Almannagjá – the space between the North American and Eurasian continental plates. I love the little church. Lots of easy walking paths.

2. From Þingvellir to Dyrhólaey: Stop at Seljalandsfoss (easy stairs to climb behind the waterfall), Skógafoss (set your tripod in the water to take an iconic waterfall photo, then climb up to the start of the lava from the Eyjafjallajökull eruption), Sólheimasandur (for haunting pictures of the airplane that crashed on the black sand beach, there’s no sign but the coordinates are 63 27.546-19 21.887).

Part 2 coming soon.

Icelandic Road Trip - Part 1

Spain

Finding a green oasis in a big city like Madrid is always a treat for the soul. The Retiro Gardens are not just any park but an elegant garden that was royal property until the 20th century.

You'll find all sorts of exciting monuments and gardens in it, including the Jardín de Vivaces, the Jardines de Cecilio Rodríguez, the Rosaleda Rose Garden, and the Parterre Francés, which features a 400-year-old cypress tree (named after Montezuma, the Mexican Aztec king). 

Among locals, El Retiro has a reputation as the best place to exercise, take a Sunday stroll after lunch, or just hang out with friends and family. If you've had enough of walking (which we for sure had after 4 days in Madrid), you can go rowing on the lake in the park, or sit down and enjoy the beautiful view.
The park is also home to some excellent restaurants and cafes – during summer in Madrid, there’s nothing better than a refreshing iced tea.

The place to be for Madrileños

Ukraine

Large festival on Kontraktovaya Square, located in historic Podil neighborhood of Kyiv, the capital of Ukraine. It is decorated  with an ice rink, food court and entertainment. Also you can enjoy views from the Ferris Wheel which is also nearby.

Canada

Newfoundland and Labrador

Far Away From Far Away

Chile

Magallanes and Chilean Antarctica

Going to Extremes

Greenland

Qaasuitsup Municipality

Iceberg Factory

Iceland

Eastern Region

Ice Caving

Pure Zen

Southern Region

Northern Mists

Icelandic Road Trip - Part 2

Icelandic Road Trip - Part 1

Spain

Community of Madrid

The place to be for Madrileños

Ukraine

Kyiv city

Kyiv Christmas on Podil