Paro | Hope, Faith and Happiness | I am completely fascinated by Buddhist prayer wheels. Our guide tells us that we should walk clockwise, turning the

how - Fernwayer Travel Stories & Experiences

Bhutan

I am completely fascinated by Buddhist prayer wheels. Our guide tells us that we should walk clockwise, turning the wheel and chanting, “Om Mani Padme Hum”. “Will that give me extra strength to climb up to the Tiger’s Nest monastery tomorrow?”, I ask him. “Absolutely”, he says earnestly. Well, at least one of us has faith, I think to myself.

Paro Taktsang - or Tiger’s Nest monastery - hangs off a cliff at a dizzying 10,240 feet over the Paro Valley. It’s a 5 hour climb, punctuated with lunch. Not too tough, as it turns out. I must be fitter than I think. But the guide reminds me - “See, I told you so”. 

The hike (including getting to the trailhead) takes about 6-7 hours, depending on how much time you spend at the monastery. 4 miles round trip on a wide dirt trail. At the halfway point is a cafeteria - and for most people, getting to this point is the toughest part of the hike. Beyond this, both the scenery and the difficulty of the climb are in your favor.

Hope, Faith and Happiness

United States

Botswana

“But in the Kalahari, it's always Tuesday, or Thursday if you like. Or Sunday. No clocks or calendars tell you to do this or that.” - The Gods Must be Crazy

Walking with the Zu/’hoasi Bushmen of the Makgadikgadi Plains in the Central Kalahari, quintessential hunter-gatherers, I learned several things that I hope never to have to use - how to pronounce first names that are laden with clicks, collect plants for medicinal recipes, dig for scorpions, and make a fire with twigs and leaves.

Makgadikgadi means 'dry, dry', but the bush men and women know how to live in harmony with the land. Family and cultural ties are strong.

Thanks to Jack’s Camp for organizing this visit, they have longstanding connections with the local people.

Walking with Zu/’hoasi

Cambodia

How Not to be Templed Out.

Pick out the must-see’s in the mini-circuit (Bayon, Angkor Wat and Ta Prohm in that order), then pick two temples in the grand-circuit (Preah Khan and Pre-Rup are my favorites), and one that requires a car (Banteay Srei or Beng Melea). 

Add some climbing at dawn - at Phnom Krom and Phnom Bakheng - as the sunrises here will sustain you for a whole year of waking up late. 

Pace yourself over three to four days.

Temples and Temples

Canada

A visit to Fogo Island is all about the power of culture, art and community as catalysts for social and economic change. It’s a story of the indomitable spirit of people who refuse to give up their land.

First Impressions?  Minimalist winter scenery, it’s 🧊 season, one of Fogo Island’s seven  seasons. There are wooden Saltbox Houses, that must have leaped out of a child’s painting book. Reminders of fishing are everywhere. 

My favorite part of the trip is spending time with the islanders who do community orientations and cabin outings for visitors. These are people who are proud of their Irish or English heritage (seven or eight generations in Fogo Island notwithstanding) — who sing songs and tell stories of their ancestors, invite strangers into their homes to share salted cod and tea, take you on ski-doo for ice-fishing, teach you to forage for berries and show you how to preserve vegetables in mason jars to last through winter.

Far Away From Far Away

Faroe Islands

None of my map apps seem to work. After years of relying on a mechanical voice to navigate me in strange lands, I am back to poring over paper and asking for directions. I actually like driving here! 

Except when negotiating a one-lane tunnel. Then I am terrified! Unless I have right of way, I have to duck in - at just the right moment - into one of the spaces marked M, and stay there till the dark tunnel ahead is clear of oncoming headlights. This game needs nerves of steel! There are two such tunnels to get to Gásadalur, the waterfall that tumbles recklessly into the ocean.

The best photos require descending down the cliff to the beach below. There is a helpful set of concrete steps, and a big signboard in Faroese that can only be a warning, since it has a lot of exclamation marks. 

I hold on for dear life to the wobbly rusted handrail and descend half way before I realize that the rail isn’t connected to the cliff wall! The view, however, is just perfect.

Tumbling Recklessly

Greece

Pyrgos is a trendy hilltop medieval village. It’s full of little winding, narrow streets constructed haphazardly on the hills alongside multi-colored houses and doors. We lose our way several times and keep looping back to the same point .. using that as an excuse to check out yet another local art gallery constructed unobtrusively into the hillside. 

During the 15th and 16th century, the locals defended themselves from pirates by erecting kastelias .. fortified buildings. Pyrgos has the best example of these medieval buildings on the island. It also has the oldest churches.

We stop at a home with a large blue door .. and the views are stunning but give an impression that Santorini is flat and covered by vineyards instead of being a caldera. 

The one fascinating feature of homes here is a long, deep chimney for ventilation. And the strong winds make howling noises through the chimneys.

In Pyrgos, we visited vineyards ... but that’s a different story.

Old Blue Doors

Guatemala

The spectacular Mayan ruins of Tikal overrun by miles of  unspoiled jungle are extraordinarily rich in wildlife incl. the elusive jaguar. 🐆 

It’s one of the few UNESCO World Heritage sites that combines both cultural and natural richness and the 500+ sq km contains numerous remains of the Mayan civilization scattered across wetlands, savannah and tropical jungles teaming with birds and monkeys.

It was a thrilling experience to wander in a place that was one of the great cities of the world around 700 AD and wonder how people lived at that time. 

We went late afternoon to take advantage of the magical light falling on the structures and our guide, Daveed, was very helpful in highlighting the important sites and the life at that time. We enjoyed watching the sunset from the top of Temple IV. A perfect filming location for Yavin 4 in Star Wars.

After the sunset, we walked in the fading light to the spectacular Grand Plaza, relieved in Daveed’s assurance that the 🐆 is shy of humans.

Pyramids of Tikal

Smoke spewing volcano 🌋 that one can climb, tree blanketed mountains, pastel buildings, cobbled streets and quintessential garden courtyards with fountains give picture postcard views on every corner we turn.

The town Is made for walking with stone arches In bold colors, baroque architecture, churches from Spain and vibrant markets bursting with colorful woven garments like ponchos, hats & table cloth and handicrafts.

It’s the birthplace of chocolate 🍫 and there are several museums that teach how the Mayans made ‘the food of the gods’. Adjoining chocolate cafes serve decadent treats and chocolate liqueur.

The coffee ☕️ is divine too and apart from sampling the local shops, we visited a local plantation to learn about coffee making.

Antigua is one of our favorite Central American cities.

Colorful Markets

‘Lake Como surrounded by volcanoes’ is how Aldous Huxley described Lake Atitlan. 

The lake is surrounded by 11 ethnic towns and villages and we rented kayaks to explore the villages. We passed several fisherman in their cayucos and saw some birds but peacefulness was the prevailing sentiment.

We met an 82 year old woman weaver and her daughter in San Juan village who use only natural dyes for weaving their huipiles. While we caught only one word in four, we enjoyed a vigorous conversation on which animal and plant dyes they use to create color.

San Pedro village had very happening cafes and bars. Guatemalan coffee is as good as the best we have had with its high elevation and warm humid climate creating a well balanced coffee.

The Tzumen ‘Ya’ Museum was interesting to learn about the culture and lake formation.

Village Hop on Kayaks

Italy

On a sunrise photo-walk, we are at Piazza San Marco. At 5AM, it’s empty, other than for a few pigeons, and a photo enthusiast like ourselves. And we run across - with tripods - to get to the Canal looking out towards San Giorgio Maggiore Island.

Our objective? To watch and photograph gondolas swaying in the canals of Venice. It’s perfect for long exposure shots. The gondolas and docks are lit up by street lights and the sky has the perfect blend of dark and light.

We then rush over to the vaporetto stand near Europa & Regina Hotel overlooking Basilica di Santa Maria della Salute, for another Gondola scene (pictured) while the light is still good.

So, how many gondolas can you get into one frame?

We head out down the Grand Canal to the Rialto Fish Market. Some sellers are packing up after a good morning, but we’re able to get some great shots of everyday life. 

We walk back over Rialto bridge (great for photos of activity on the Canal) back to the hotel for breakfast.

How Many Gondolas?

Morocco

In Marrakech, explore the labyrinth of the medina, lined with market stalls and craftspeople, and full of secret places and contradictions. 

Anonymous, windowless, fortress-like walls enclose luxurious riads built around tiled courtyards, complete with fountains and gardens.

Happily, my wonderful guide Khadija of Morocco Private Experience, encourages my curiosity. She leads the way across the medieval labyrinth of chaotic alleyways - to the souks where centuries-old skills continue to flourish. 

I am intrigued about how all the craftspeople are clustered together by trade. We watch a metal craftsman shape a pair of gnawa cymbals. A leatherworker allows me inside his workshop for a better view. There is an entire street of ornate lantern sellers - the bronze-latticed lanterns competing with the palm-leafed roofs of the souks in throwing light-and-shadow patterns all around.

Heart and Souk

This is the view of The Red City, Marrakech’s medina from the panoramic terrace of Maison de la Photographie.

The museum of photographs is fascinating in how it came about – two famous photographers, Patrick Menac’h and Hamid Mergani, brought together their common passion for vintage Moroccan photography, and pooled their photos for the public to admire. Here I realize how black-and-white photos can dramatize the light-and-shadow effects in the medina.

From the terrace, you can have a glass of mint tea, and wonder about the thousands of satellite dishes that dominate the view. 

It’s peaceful here. On a clear day, you can see the snow-clad High Atlas Mountains. But you can’t see the chaos of Djemaa el-Fna, or hear shouts of ‘Balek!’ whenever donkey-carts come through laden with heavy goods. You can’t see the ‘hand of Fatima’ good-luck symbols painted on the carts after they have ambled past you. Or count the number of chickens being transported on the back of a groaning Vespa.

Pausing in the Frenzy

The riad sends a donkey called Couscous to meet us and pick up the luggage; the taxi will only go so far into the medina. 

As our merry procession winds through the narrow, confusing alleyways, we panic slightly. No problem, says a djelleba-clad staff member, you’ll have a map and cell phone to call if you’re lost. But he graciously accompanies us to our dinner booking and explains how we should get back to the riad. We leave invisible bread crumbs along the way – kebab shop, sweets stall, bakery etc. 

After a long meal, at 11:30 pm, the souks have closed, the streets look very different, and our bread crumbs have obviously gone to bed. It takes two wrong turns and much poring over the map before we find our way back. Our sense of adventure is fully piqued. 

Inside, the restored riad is palatial, with courtyards, heated pool, tiled terraces and stylish artwork. Breakfast is whenever you want, and wherever, says the charming Afaf. 

Shall we move in permanently, we wonder.

Riad Living

Norway

What does teetering on the edge of the ocean feel like? 
🌊
The Atlantic Road is an 8-kilometre roller-coaster stretch of road between Kristiansund and Molde. 
🌉
It skips nimbly from island to island, across seven curvy bridges. The tallest of them, Storseisundet, has a dramatic rise/fall and an impossibly artistic curve. At the highest point, I can actually see the other bridges connecting the tiny islands ahead. 
🎣 
In contrast, the bridge nearby - from where I take this photo - is flat, specially constructed for anglers - and the woman standing next to me comes here every day to catch her meal fresh. She demonstrates how she is only finding small pollock this evening - and calmly proceeds to slash the just-caught fish’s throat before dropping it into her nearly-full bucket. Too much Information, I tell her. She laughs. 
❤️ 
On the hillock opposite the bridge, I count seven pairs of people holding hands and looking out to the water. 
🎢
It is that kind of view.

Roller Coaster

Peru

My enduring memory of this visit was watching a group of women unraveling their yarn 🧶 with hands moving so fast it was mesmerising to watch. 

Chinchero is a small Andean village near Urubamba. A handicrafts market is held here thrice a week - and it’s a great place to meet the local people. 

Or to haggle for textiles. Or vegetables. Or a 🐓. To learn how to distinguish between the various Andean tribes based on their different, wildly colorful hats. To catch a weaving demonstration at a local workshop. And marvel at how every color in the wool comes from a natural dye source. 

And my favorite: To make an old lady laugh by showing her pictures on my viewfinder of her own toothy grin from different angles.

Spinning a Yarn

United Kingdom

Our plan: To walk through the magnificent Quiraing and climb to the base of the Needle, a 120 ft jagged pinnacle, for views of the Outer Hebrides.  

Weather forecast? Fair, says Harry, the winds will blow away the clouds and midges.

Highlights from the photo-hike: ☀️Awe-inspiring view of Loch Cleat (above). 💦 Scrambling over the steep cliffs on springy heather. 🐾 Checking out the structures that have been named — The Needle, The Prison, The Table — and naming those that haven’t. ⚡️Noting the exact moment when the weather turns on us. ❄️ Getting shrouded in mist and fog, and unwittingly playing hide-and-seek at the top of the ridge (this is, after all, where locals hid their sheep from raiding Vikings). 💨 Howling winds over 50 mph trying to gust us off the slopes. 💧Rain coming down in full force. ☁️ Feeling my spine tingle as clouds swirl around me in this unreal landscape.

Cinematic Drama

After disastrously and foolishly underestimating how difficult the parking situation is, we only ended up with a 1/2 day to spend in thr park. This was not enough time.

Bhutan

Paro

Hope, Faith and Happiness

Botswana

Central District

Walking with Zu/’hoasi

Cambodia

Siem Reap Province

Temples and Temples

Canada

Newfoundland and Labrador

Far Away From Far Away

Faroe Islands

Vága Municipality

Tumbling Recklessly

Greece

Decentralized Administration of the Aegean

Old Blue Doors

Guatemala

Petén Department

Pyramids of Tikal

Sacatepéquez Department

Colorful Markets

Sololá Department

Village Hop on Kayaks

Italy

Veneto

How Many Gondolas?

Morocco

Marrakesh-Safi

Heart and Souk

Pausing in the Frenzy

Riad Living

Norway

Møre og Romsdal

Roller Coaster

Peru

Cusco

Spinning a Yarn

United Kingdom

Scotland

Cinematic Drama

United States

Utah

Trail Running Zion