Phaspani | Sky Above, Sky Below | Driving in the wet season in Salar de Uyuni, it feels like you are in a sailboat on the ocean - splashing in the wat

past - Fernwayer Travel Stories & Experiences

Bolivia

Driving in the wet season in Salar de Uyuni, it feels like you are in a sailboat on the ocean - splashing in the water and watching mesmerizing reflections of the sky. It’s incredibly surreal.

The newly discovered planet Crait in The Last Jedi was set in this breathtaking and luminous salt-covered land. We stay in a gleaming Airstream parked on the salt lake, and are greeted by a salt version of R2D2 that apparently starred in the movie.

On a still day at the start of the rainy season, a thin layer of water covers the salt, forming a great mirror reflecting the sky. It’s disorienting, because you can’t judge distance or perspective. 

The Salar is so flat across its 10,000 square kilometres, that the surface is used to calibrate the altimeters on board earth’s satellites. At dusk, we watch the International Space Station slowly cruising past in the sky above us, like a bright star, and we watch lightning in the horizon all around us.

Sky Above, Sky Below

United States

Guatemala

Smoke spewing volcano 🌋 that one can climb, tree blanketed mountains, pastel buildings, cobbled streets and quintessential garden courtyards with fountains give picture postcard views on every corner we turn.

The town Is made for walking with stone arches In bold colors, baroque architecture, churches from Spain and vibrant markets bursting with colorful woven garments like ponchos, hats & table cloth and handicrafts.

It’s the birthplace of chocolate 🍫 and there are several museums that teach how the Mayans made ‘the food of the gods’. Adjoining chocolate cafes serve decadent treats and chocolate liqueur.

The coffee ☕️ is divine too and apart from sampling the local shops, we visited a local plantation to learn about coffee making.

Antigua is one of our favorite Central American cities.

Colorful Markets

India

My taxi driver, Chand, tries his best to persuade me to change the plan - “K.R. Market is a complete mess in the rainy season”, he argues, and for effect, twists his head around to the back seat to look at my tunic, shakes his head, and declares woefully — “You will be covered in mud and smelly water”. Sadly for him, I can’t resist a wholesale flower market. 

At sunrise every day, the southern end of Avenue Road lines up with a couple hundred flower vendors. Business between 5 to 8 a.m. is hectic and noisy.. Since it’s well past 10 a.m. now, I weave my way instead through stalls of vegetables, fruits and spices to find the building where these vendors disappear to after their morning sales. 

Chand is right about the mulch smells and slushy floors.  Climb up to the second floor to find a quiet spot to view the action from above. Or wander through the narrow passages, as I do, stepping around baskets full of flowers. 

For the record, my tunic remains mud-and-slush-free.

Bed of Roses

Mexico

Tacos al pastor, elotes, chilaquiles, quesadillas, ceviche – the list goes on, because Mexican food is not only tasty but offers hundreds of different things to try. Anyone visiting Mexico City must, by all means, do a street food tour – a culinary and cultural adventure.

If you want a more adventurous Mexico City street food experience, there's no better place to venture than Mercado de San Juan, known for serving up crawlies and edible insects. 

Famous for being Frida Kahlo’s weekly shopping spot, Mercado Coyoacán is a little more expensive, but once you've tried the Tostadas de Coyoacán or fresh pulpo, you’ll forget about the price. For more hipster, upper-class street food, you can also try Mercado Roma – I’ve had some delicious sweet Pan de Los Muertos.

Taste the best street food

Morocco

The Moroccan fig liquor is beginning to sneak up on me. Or perhaps it’s the jet lag. The soulful music of the live folk vocalist is not helping either. 

We’re waiting for dinner, in the courtyard of a restored Riad. It’s a good thing I haven’t eaten much during the flight because very soon, it’s clear that they expect me to have the appetite of a small army. 

The food is absolutely delicious, and here’s what I learn:
“Salad” is a selection of 5-10 amazing dips served with khobz - flatbread. 
Pigeon pastille is a must-have any time you see it on a menu!
Tagine of lamb with fluffy couscous - when cooked to perfection as it is here - is irresistible. 

This is followed by an elaborate dessert course, mint tea prepared with precision and ceremony, gnawa singers and a belly dancer who insists on audience participation. 

This story celebrates a series of unforgettable meals in Marrakesh - some in fine restaurants and others on the street.

Of Pigeon Pastille

Public executions at Djemaa el-Fna are a thing of the past, but that’s pretty much the only thing that’s changed in this Square in its millennium of existence. 

Here’s a non-exhaustive list of what you’ll find: Percussionists, Acrobats, Fortune-tellers, Conjurers, Gnawa musicians, Henna tattoo artists, Food Vendors, Snake charmers, Potion peddlers, Un-winnable carnival games. 

As dusk settles over Marrakech, look up at the sky. Follow the direction of what looks like a bonfire of epic proportions. When you manage to edge past the thousands of people, you realize it’s only smoke from kebabs and snails at over a hundred barbecue stalls, staffed by some of the busiest chefs and unflappable crews you’ll ever see.

Look around the Square and locate a restaurant with a balcony. Buy a glass of mint tea and grab a coveted plastic chair at the edge of the balcony to see the grand view of the world’s largest human tableau play out below.

Glorious Mayhem

This is the view of The Red City, Marrakech’s medina from the panoramic terrace of Maison de la Photographie.

The museum of photographs is fascinating in how it came about – two famous photographers, Patrick Menac’h and Hamid Mergani, brought together their common passion for vintage Moroccan photography, and pooled their photos for the public to admire. Here I realize how black-and-white photos can dramatize the light-and-shadow effects in the medina.

From the terrace, you can have a glass of mint tea, and wonder about the thousands of satellite dishes that dominate the view. 

It’s peaceful here. On a clear day, you can see the snow-clad High Atlas Mountains. But you can’t see the chaos of Djemaa el-Fna, or hear shouts of ‘Balek!’ whenever donkey-carts come through laden with heavy goods. You can’t see the ‘hand of Fatima’ good-luck symbols painted on the carts after they have ambled past you. Or count the number of chickens being transported on the back of a groaning Vespa.

Pausing in the Frenzy

Namibia

I am never going to climb a sand dune again. I say that vehemently (many times) as I climb Dune 45.

After 50 long, sand-filled minutes taken to trudge up, here are the lessons learned: Take slow steps. Barefoot works best. One step forward will indeed feel like two steps backward. Don’t stop. Don’t get disheartened if a sprightly guide whizzes past you in an attempt to beat his own 10 minute record. When you have reached the peak and admired the view, scream a joyful “whee-eee” and slide down the side of the dune, marveling at the roaring sound of the minor avalanche that you will create. 

Ok, can we do that again? 

Nearby is Dead Vlei / Sossusvlei. It’s a kaleidoscope of yellow and orange sands and the white of the stunning vlei. Meanwhile, the oryx are vying with each other to position themselves strategically into my shots. They seem to have no issues with climbing dunes. Then again, I don’t see them doing any joyful slides down.

Don’t Stop

I am in Kaokoland. Final frontier of Namibia. Home to the beautiful Himba people.

The last nomadic, herding tribe in southern Africa, they still maintain their dress and traditions. Red ochre paste for sun protection. Smoke from herbs for cleansing and perfume. Intricate hairstyles. Lots of leather jewelry. A beauty routine that takes three hours every single day to complete.

This young woman graciously agrees to be my ‘model’ - and is as curious about me and my traditions as I am about hers.

Land of Himba

Svalbard & Jan Mayen

On a rainy day, at 78°N, M/S Polar Girl sets out from Longyearbyen to Pyramiden. Even in dreary weather, there is joy in watching the puffins swimming alongside the boat.

Then we step on to the most surreal of ghost towns, Pyramiden, a Russian mining settlement with the northern-most statue of Lenin. 

The decision to abandon in the 90s was sudden. People were given just hours to leave. Signs of a hasty departure are everywhere. Dried up plants. Rusted playground swings. Utensils and stoves left in disarray. Hand-drawn artwork taped on the walls. 

The guide points out the men’s and women’s dorm buildings, euphemistically called London and Paris. Everything is trapped in a 1970s time-warp. A blast from the Soviet past. 

Trust Arktikugol (Arctic Coal), a Russian state owned coal mining company, continues to run this, now as a tourist destination. Perfect for filming a James Bond movie.

Back on the boat, we have views of the glacier and freshly barbequed burgers to cheer us up.

Mining the Past

We arrive by RIB boat from Longyearbyen, dressed in survival suits, across a choppy Arctic Sea, with puffins and seals for company.

Isfjord Radio on Cape Linné, is an abandoned strategic communications station, with a decidedly interesting past, now converted into a stylish expedition lodge. 

Nothing could have prepared me for the extreme sense of isolation and wilderness. 

Imagine sitting all alone at latitude 79 degrees north and watching polar bears prowling outside the kitchen window. Two days ago, that is exactly what the staff at Isfjord Radio did.  After all, Svalbard’s travel slogan reads: “3000 polar bears, 2500 humans”. 

Hiking into the middle of nowhere, or along the coast looking for 1500-kilo walruses, is done with licensed guides, a couple of mandatory rifles for protection and huskies for company. It is a beautiful, stark landscape, filled with mystery and a sense of the unknown. 

Which direction should we head? Anywhere you want to go, comes the reply.

Extreme Wilderness

United Kingdom

I once owned a MINI Cooper. 

On a recent trip to Morocco, I had a l-o-n-g layover in London between planes at Heathrow and Gatwick. So I organized to meet my charming chauffeur of smallcarBIGCITY at Paddington Station for a personal tour of London in a vintage red Mini. 

I may have been jet-lagged but I remember the Beatles blaring on the stereo. And of cruising through St. James Park as sunlight broke through the morning fog. A scandalous story about why Green Park has no flowers. Quirky bits of history. Narrow, cobbled streets that only a Mini can negotiate. Crowds outside Buckingham Palace. The legend of the Noses of Soho. Saturday markets. Floral Street in Covent Garden. Whizzing past sparkling new Routemaster buses. The story behind “London Bridge is falling down”. And my favorite view of London from inside a Mini on Westminster Bridge.

All the while, passers-by waved, smiled and photographed us. I felt like a mini celebrity!

Mini-Tour

I often drive the two hours to catch the sunrise in Virginia Beach. Rudee’s Inlet is a favorite spot because of the contrast of the rocks.

Bolivia

Potosi Department

Sky Above, Sky Below

Guatemala

Sacatepéquez Department

Colorful Markets

India

Karnataka

Bed of Roses

Mexico

Mexico City

Taste the best street food

Morocco

Marrakesh-Safi

Of Pigeon Pastille

Glorious Mayhem

Pausing in the Frenzy

Namibia

Hardap Region

Don’t Stop

Kunene Region

Land of Himba

Svalbard & Jan Mayen

Svalbard

Mining the Past

Extreme Wilderness

United Kingdom

England

Mini-Tour

United States

Virginia

Just past sunrise