Buenos Aires | Cycling through Buenos Aires | Buenos Aires is one of the southernmost capitals in the world and also an exciting city. Although there 

most - Fernwayer Travel Stories & Experiences

Argentina

Buenos Aires is one of the southernmost capitals in the world and also an exciting city. Although there are many ways to explore Argentine city life, biking is the most fun.

Biking is free in Buenos Aires, at least for a few hours. Using an app I downloaded to my phone, I spent the next few days biking around the Botanical Gardens, the best museums, art galleries, El Caminito, the riverfront, and the city's largest flea market (on weekends only!). While you’re at it, you can also visit one of the most beautiful cemeteries in the world in Recoleta.

The bike paths are well developed, and if you follow the signs, you'll find the main points quickly. Be careful, helmets are not available. If you want to be on the safe side, rent one in one of the bike rentals.

Cycling through Buenos Aires

Colombia

Since I knew that I was gonna travel to Argentina I wanted to visit La Boca. It is a little neighborhood where you can find some of the most famous landscapes of Buenos Aires. 

At the time I arrive, via bus or “bondi”, as it is said there, it was full of people; eating, buying souvenirs, taking photos, etc.

I loved this experience so much that I don’t want to spoil anything to you, just take the chance and visit that amazing place!

Eating Choripan at La Boca

Fruity, dry, red, white, sweet, sparkling — wine is delicious, and the best way to discover what this powerful potion has to offer is to take a bike tour through the vineyards (yes, on a bike). Mendoza is the best place to choose one of the hundreds of tour operators. 

Mendoza is the most popular wine-growing province in Argentina. And Bodega Tempus Alba has a perfect climate for growing high-quality grapes, and the majestic Andes Mountains provide the backdrop for some of the most beautiful pictures of vineyards to be found anywhere in the world.

Whether you're biking or not, a proper tasting tour will give you enough wine to come home tipsy. That's why I recommend eating well before your tour and taking a break when the magic of wine goes to your head.

I also spent some time hiking in the area, exploring the small villages in the area, and eating the best Argentine empanadas around. A trip for the senses, for sure.

Vineyards and boozy tours

Patagonia – the land where the earth ends – must be one of the most unique places to visit in this world. I definitely felt this way, when I visited the glaciers, mountains, and rivers around. It’s a stunning place, and even though it’s quite hard to get there, the whole trip is completely worthwhile.

Patagonian hares, hawks, red foxes, geese, black-necked swans, flamingos, woodpeckers, skunks, pumas, condors, and the near extinct huemul deer – this place is for nature lovers. We’ve spent 1 month in Patagonia, exploring the fauna and flora, zipping warm chocolate next to the chimney of our bed and breakfast, and breathing the fresh air.

Save packing lightly for another trip – visiting the snowy landscape in Southern Argentina, you want to come as prepared as possible. Scarves, gloves, a winter jacket, boots, and lots of exchange clothes are a must.

Visit a rare phenomenon

Australia

Kakadu National Park is half the size of Switzerland and a real adventure. If you rent a car, you could drive along the road for weeks, camping in different places and experiencing nature in a way you can't anywhere else.

After leaving Darwin in a rented 4x4 jeep, we made the long drive to Kakadu National Park. Take plenty of drinks and snacks with you, as there aren't many stops on the road. Along the way, we visited several refreshing waterholes and waterfalls, had an open-air barbecue, and saw many birds, snakes, anthills, and farmland along the way.

At night we mostly stayed at campsites that provided tents, and the beauty of the night is incomparable. You can hear, smell, and see countless species of animals, from alligators swimming in lakes at night to dingoes howling, to weirdly chirping insects.

We hiked to a hidden waterfall and discovered some hundreds-of-years-old wooden paintings done by the ancestors of Australia's indigenous people. A must-see in Australia for sure!

Camping: Kakadu National Park

United States

Visiting Western Australia's Nambung National Park and the Pinnacles Desert is a must.

Located at the southern gateway to Australia's Coral Coast, along the Indian Ocean Drive, the Pinnacles Desert of Nambung National Park is one of the major natural attractions in the region and are Western Australia's most visited attractions.

The park is located roughly 200km, or 2 hours' drive north of Perth, and covers an area of 17,487 hectares providing natural habitat for an extensive array of native animals and bird life.

The Pinnacles are amazing natural limestone structures, formed approximately 25,000 to 30,000 years ago after the sea receded and left deposits of sea shells. Over time, coastal winds removed the surrounding sand, leaving the pillars exposed to the elements. The Pinnacles range in height and dimension - some stand as high as 3.5m!

Desert limestone formations

The Great Barrier Reef is famous not only because it is the largest coral reef in the ocean, but also because it is the most beautiful one. For those who like snorkeling or diving, an unsurpassable underwater world opens up.

My highlight in Australia was definitely the day trip to the reef. From Cairns, we took the tourist boat out to sea. Since the water is relatively cold, you get a wetsuit and then have hours to discover the unique underwater world.

I saw sharks, turtles, huge colorful corals, man-sized fish, thousands of small schools of fish, a clam, rays, snails, and lots of underwater plants.

Remember that you are a trespasser in the underwater world, so be careful not to touch or destroy anything. Use organic sunscreen and always be respectful of your surroundings.

The world’s largest reef

Bhutan

I am completely fascinated by Buddhist prayer wheels. Our guide tells us that we should walk clockwise, turning the wheel and chanting, “Om Mani Padme Hum”. “Will that give me extra strength to climb up to the Tiger’s Nest monastery tomorrow?”, I ask him. “Absolutely”, he says earnestly. Well, at least one of us has faith, I think to myself.

Paro Taktsang - or Tiger’s Nest monastery - hangs off a cliff at a dizzying 10,240 feet over the Paro Valley. It’s a 5 hour climb, punctuated with lunch. Not too tough, as it turns out. I must be fitter than I think. But the guide reminds me - “See, I told you so”. 

The hike (including getting to the trailhead) takes about 6-7 hours, depending on how much time you spend at the monastery. 4 miles round trip on a wide dirt trail. At the halfway point is a cafeteria - and for most people, getting to this point is the toughest part of the hike. Beyond this, both the scenery and the difficulty of the climb are in your favor.

Hope, Faith and Happiness

Canada

Someone described #Churchill as “the warmest coldest tundra town”. It is a friendly, curious town. It also claims to have 300 days of northern lights. 

Basically, if you happen to be in Churchill on a clear night, prepare to wake up, dress up in layers (quickly), and be enthralled. 

Last Sunday night, when most had turned back in after what looked like an “average” aurora display, we waited and were rewarded with lovely green ribbons and curtains.

Dancing Dragons Across The Sky

Chile

San Pedro de Atacama is an oasis within the driest desert in the world at the very north of Chile. At more than 8000 feet above sea level, it sits in the center of a ring of volcanoes, the most famous of them being Licancabur. A couple of them still spew smoke. 
🌋 | 🌋 | 🌋 
Volcano climbing, consequently, is a very popular activity here ('why climb the volcanoes?’ - I ask. ‘Because you can!’- says the guide) and we are quickly put on a 4-day program to acclimatize ourselves to the altitude - with progressively higher altitude hikes to prepare us for the final climb. My favorite part of the hikes is the opportunity to capture the colors of the altiplano! That and the thrill of walking through the Mars like topography of the Atacama desert. 
🧗‍♀️ 
Climb Licancabur if you are an experienced climber, Toco or Corona for one day climbs. And you will have bragging rights forever for having climbed a volcano!

Volcano Climbing

France

Thousands of winter sports enthusiasts (like me) visit the French Alps every year – and for good reasons. Whether you're an experienced skier or a rank beginner, there are many different slopes for every level and preference (and you can rent your gear there as well). 

Since I go there every year, I can tell you my favorite region: Serre Chevalier. There are many tight, open trees, gullies, canyons, and some long steeps. This makes Serre Chevalier a paradise for skiers and snowboarders, which means you can go in a huge group and take everyone’s preferences into account.

On most of our stays, we sleep in bed and breakfasts in Villeneuve, as from there, it’s just a short ride to the slopes! And there are some excellent French restaurants in the village – an essential part of skiing is eating well to recover the energy spent on the slopes. Recommended time spent: At least 3 days!

Skiling in the Alpes

Definitely one of the most beautiful cities in the world also gets to show off their Christmas decorations. Galeries Lafayette are great at doing this every year with their floating Christmas tree!

Christmas in Paris

There are so many museums and art galleries in Paris that it's hard to decide where to go first. Most tourists want to stand in line at the Louvre, admire Claude Monet, or visit the National Museum of Art – but as so few check out the famous street art of Paris, we knew it was our thing to do.
There is so much history behind each piece of art or painting out there that it is worth investing some extra money and time to immerse yourself in Paris's artistic exploration fully. We did a whole self-organized art walk visiting 7 streets, with an audio tour, and visited the different places on our own (though you can get a personal guide). 
Our highlight was Rue Saint-Maur – a 2km-long street painted mainly by the artist Kashink. The artist plays with classic elements of Parisian street art and combines them with modern political messages.

Street art tours in Paris

Eclairs, ratatouille, fromage – mhmm, so yummy – paired with a glass of wine and pleasant company, a French cooking class is a trip for all the senses (and fun, too). We opted for a private cooking class in Paris with Léo, a chef who has cooked in several top restaurants throughout his life. 

The first dish we learned how to cook was a French cheese plate and handmade bread accompanied by filled vine leaves. After that, we learned about French cuisine, the main ingredients, preparation methods, history, and drank some more wine. We learned what ingredients make the French kitchen unique (wine, vinegar, and cheese) and made a delicious ratatouille, one of France's most popular vegetable dishes. 

We read you can also do these courses online, but you have to get the ingredients and tools beforehand. A good option for digital visitors!

French cuisine

Greece

In Santorini, we discover and fall in love with Vinsanto, the local dessert wine. So we drive up to Hatzidakis - a charming and intimate local winery - to check out the local grapes. The vines grow low to the ground and close to the road and we almost drive into them while looking for parking. 

The grapes are grown in an unusual way, not in arbors but low to the ground, in baskets made of vine stalks themselves. They are organic and are watered mostly by dew as the island has low water supply.

The tasting room is cave-like and we take home several bottkes of the small batch Vinsanto they produce.

Vinsanto

Mexico

The Mayan culture is one of the most important indigenous cultures in Southern Mexico. Artifacts from bygone times stretch far across the jungles of Quintana Roos and Chiapas. 

If you want to learn more about how indigenous peoples lived before colonization, don't miss the ruins of Palenque. Arguably the largest Mayan ruins on the continent, they're tucked away, deeply hidden in the Mexican jungle. The highlights of the actual ruins are the numerous temples, a palace and aqueducts, and of course, a guided tour where you can learn all about Mexico's history. If you venture out into the jungle, you'll encounter rare wildlife like monkeys, colorful birds, and giant snakes.

Take sunscreen, plenty of water, and some snacks, as the tour takes at least half a day.

Visit Ancient Mayan Ruins

Oaxaca is the most diverse state in Mexico, with the richest history of indigenous peoples and consequently the most fascinating and vibrant folk art in the country. In Oaxaca are so many different indigenous groups spread across numerous villages, and each of them is known for their unique works of art, from rugs to pottery, flowers, and paintings.

Street art in Oaxaca tells stories about Mexico, their struggles for independence and economic development, and against military dictatorship and US American influence. You can learn a lot from indigenous rights to natural disasters through street art in Oaxaca by walking through the streets and analyzing each mural.

For art lovers only

Laguna Bacalar, a pristine lagoon in the state of Quintana Roo, just a few hours from Tulum, is one of the most beautiful places in Mexico. The place is known for its delicate ecosystem, and I recommend you stay in one of the eco-lodges and learn more about the unique flora and fauna while you're there.

Due to a complex, ancient oxygenation process, the lake's sedimentary structures shimmer in seven different blue colors, and the crystal clear water invites you to jump right in. There are several ways to explore the lagoon:
- Swimming in the tepid water
- Hiking around the lake
- Taking a sunrise tour on a stand-up paddleboard

You can easily stay 5 days in this small town, eat Mexican food, get take-out pizza, try mezcal (a liquor made from the agave), and take a free walk to the town's cemetery, small art galleries, and tiny souvenir stores. If you’re tight on time, two nights will make it as well.

Ecotourism to the 7 color lake

Norway

I am sitting at a window ledge table in the kitchen of an authentic rorbu, a fishing hut on stilts. 

It’s after midnight during Midnattsol, but it’s hard to tear myself away from the view. Yesterday was bright and sunny, but today is stormy and the sea is asserting itself. 

This rorbu is located at the very end of the peninsula so there’s no escaping the force of the wind and the water in any of its rooms. The landing area has been left untouched – fishermen used to haul in their catch here via massive doors opening out to the sea – the old floorboards have gaps and you can see the sea underneath and hear the waves lashing on to the rocks. 

Reine is a scenic fishing village with bright red wooden huts steeped in tradition, once housing the fishermen who made their winter pilgrimage to the world’s most fertile cod fishing grounds. 

In summer, all that remains are the empty fish drying racks between houses, a reminder that – despite the stunning beauty, it’s a very harsh life.

Stay in a Rorbu

Portugal

Porto is a city with a unique mystique! its old buildings, colorful houses, the particularity of its wines and the joy of its people, make it a must-see.
The most exciting thing about not planning my stay was getting lost to find myself in small places rich in gastronomy, flavors that I never experienced before, local markets with the best ambient and desserts that made every minute in this city worthwhile.

Find yourself in Oporto

Spain

If you are interested in rare natural phenomena and want to learn more about marine life, you should head to Mexico's Pacific coast. One of the best spectacles is the annual whale migration, where you can catch unique glimpses of humpback whales. 

The largest mammals on earth have earned their reputation as the most beautiful, intelligent, and impressive creatures. If you watch the ocean at migration time (either from the shore or on a boat tour), you'll see baby whales leaping and maybe even hear mother whales calling their families together. The baby-whale season is from January until the end of April.

But the Pacific coast is not only known for whales. It's just as beautiful to watch sea turtles hatch. If you come at the right time, you can witness mother turtles laying hundreds of eggs overnight in the soft sand on the coast, and much later, those hundreds of babies hatch and crawl toward the sea. Come between late August to early October.

Witnessing whale migration

A road trip through Spain is literally the best option for those looking for a local, less touristic experience. You can basically rent a car anywhere you want – we started in Barcelona, heading down the coast, and taking stops in Ebro Delta and Denia and other sleepy beach towns down the road. One of our highlights was the Spanish town of Cartagena – a historical hub with beautiful angled roads, traditional culture to explore (expect to be invited to some Cerveza by the locals), and history lessons about Phoenician traders, Roman soldiers, and Christian Reconquistas. If you have some days left, visiting Andalusia is a must. It's by far the most beautiful region in Spain and is known for its majestic horse breed, pristine beaches, hot weather, and super friendly culture. 
All in all, it took us two weeks to get down the coast – but you can make it in a week as well – though you might have less time to explore, sunbathe, and learn about the history of Spain

Off-the-beaten-path

Svalbard & Jan Mayen

On a rainy day, at 78°N, M/S Polar Girl sets out from Longyearbyen to Pyramiden. Even in dreary weather, there is joy in watching the puffins swimming alongside the boat.

Then we step on to the most surreal of ghost towns, Pyramiden, a Russian mining settlement with the northern-most statue of Lenin. 

The decision to abandon in the 90s was sudden. People were given just hours to leave. Signs of a hasty departure are everywhere. Dried up plants. Rusted playground swings. Utensils and stoves left in disarray. Hand-drawn artwork taped on the walls. 

The guide points out the men’s and women’s dorm buildings, euphemistically called London and Paris. Everything is trapped in a 1970s time-warp. A blast from the Soviet past. 

Trust Arktikugol (Arctic Coal), a Russian state owned coal mining company, continues to run this, now as a tourist destination. Perfect for filming a James Bond movie.

Back on the boat, we have views of the glacier and freshly barbequed burgers to cheer us up.

Mining the Past

Tanzania

We spend nearly four amazing hours in the Sand River Circuit in the midst of a spectacular head of grunting wildebeest. Led by “collective intelligence”, these animals complete a 1000 mile loop over the course of a year, and most survive for several seasons of this tough journey! 

When we arrive in the Grumeti Reserves, further south, we find the last few hundred thousand or so wildebeest. Here they are extremely purposeful and move in a single-file. Perhaps they have realized that they are late and will miss out on all the new green grass in the northern plains. They kick up a storm of dust as they move forward with determination - though it is not unusual to see the whole herd running swiftly back if something ahead spooks them. 

It is here that we see the consequences of the ‘battle’ - injured animals or those too weary to complete the journey. This is sad to watch as they will soon become easy prey to the predators. 

Such is the ⭕️ of life.

One Million Wildebeest

Climbing Mount Whitney was one of the most personally satisfying experiences of my 30s; the challenge and the beauty of the hike were high on my list of life experiences.

Mount Whitney

Forty-five minutes from Palm Springs – or a slightly longer, two hours from Los Angeles - in California’s southernmost Joshua Tree National Park, I’m waiting at the Visitor Center to buy my park pass, and it’s clear that the most commonly asked question of the rangers in this Park is - “Why is it called a Joshua Tree?"

Turns out the giant, branching yucca’s shape reminded early Mormon settlers of a story in which the Prophet Joshua reaches his hands up to the sky. “A good Joshua Tree will be really thick, with arms sticking out like they’re wearing furry sleeves.” – From The Bulletin, in a 1987 article, 7 years before the trees got themselves their own National Park. 

No two Joshua Trees are alike – for that would be too boring. Instead, they defiantly withstand the desert conditions and stretch out in weird and wonderful ways. 

Great hikes, photography, star-gazing. 

[🌵]

Weird and Wonderful

Hawaii’s Big Island has a lot to offer, including the view from the Southern most point in all of the United States. Unfortunately, there is no real marker for the location. The waters are gorgeous and there is a place to jump in from a height.

Southern most point of the USA

Pillowcase or jack-o’-lantern bucket?

It’s Halloween time in Beacon Hill in Boston. After much consideration, I decide that I am too old to collect candy from my generous neighbors.

So I pick up my camera instead and wander through Boston’s most historic neighborhood to celebrate its annual Halloween tradition.
🎃 
Since the 1970s, this is one day when the charming tree-lined streets of Beacon Hill get packed ..
 
.. with costumed pets and people, infants dressed as pumpkins to the elderly dressed in traditional witching gear.

Watch out for the brooms. 

I run into a friend dressed up as Jamie Lannister from the Game of Thrones, complete with chopped arm hanging around his neck.

There’s a dog dressed up as a skunk.

A house on Pinckney Street is showing black-and-white Dracula movies.

Beacon Hill has the perfect Halloween atmosphere with the wrought iron, cobblestones, narrow alleys and seriously all-out decoration.
👻
So, trick or treat?

Antelope Canyon may be the most famous of Utah’s slot canyons,  but if you want to avoid the large crowds, go to Buckskin Gulch - harder to reach but possibly, more enjoyable.

Wire Pass, a gorge carved through the Cockscomb by Coyote Wash, is the most popular entry route into Buckskin Gulch. It takes 1.7 miles to get to the slot canyon from the trailhead. Wire Pass is short, less than half a mile, but its slot canyon is even more confined than Buckskin, and makes for spectacular photos.

Buckskin Gulch twists its way for another 13 surreal miles, but we turn back after a couple of miles to head back to the trailhead. We’ve stopped every few feet to capture various angles of the rock and light - and literally run out of time. You could certainly do a wonderful all-day hike here.

Cycling through Buenos Aires

Eating Choripan at La Boca

Vineyards and boozy tours

Visit a rare phenomenon

Camping: Kakadu National Park

Desert limestone formations

The world’s largest reef

Hope, Faith and Happiness

Dancing Dragons Across The Sky

Volcano Climbing

Skiling in the Alpes

Christmas in Paris

Street art tours in Paris

French cuisine

Vinsanto

Visit Ancient Mayan Ruins

For art lovers only

Ecotourism to the 7 color lake

Stay in a Rorbu

Find yourself in Oporto

Witnessing whale migration

Off-the-beaten-path

Mining the Past

One Million Wildebeest

Mount Whitney

Weird and Wonderful

Southern most point of the USA

Boo

Through the Wire

Argentina

Buenos Aires

Cycling through Buenos Aires

Eating Choripan at La Boca

Mendoza Province

Vineyards and boozy tours

Río Negro

Visit a rare phenomenon

Australia

Northern Territory

Camping: Kakadu National Park

Western Australia

Desert limestone formations

The world’s largest reef

Bhutan

Paro

Hope, Faith and Happiness

Canada

Manitoba

Dancing Dragons Across The Sky

Chile

Antofagasta

Volcano Climbing

France

Auvergne-Rhône-Alpes

Skiling in the Alpes

Île-de-France

Christmas in Paris

Street art tours in Paris

French cuisine

Greece

Decentralized Administration of the Aegean

Vinsanto

Mexico

Chiapas

Visit Ancient Mayan Ruins

Oaxaca

For art lovers only

Quintana Roo

Ecotourism to the 7 color lake

Norway

Nordland

Stay in a Rorbu

Portugal

Porto District

Find yourself in Oporto

Spain

Community of Madrid

Witnessing whale migration

Region of Murcia

Off-the-beaten-path

Svalbard & Jan Mayen

Svalbard

Mining the Past

Tanzania

Mara Region

One Million Wildebeest

United States

California

Mount Whitney

Weird and Wonderful

Hawaii

Southern most point of the USA

Massachusetts

Boo

Utah

Through the Wire