Torres del Paine | Going to Extremes | What does the southern end of the world look like? After five and a half l-o-n-g hours from Punta Arenas, out o

extremes - Fernwayer Travel Stories & Experiences

Chile

What does the southern end of the world look like? After five and a half l-o-n-g hours from Punta Arenas, out of the blue appears Hotel Explora Salto Chico - and it’s breathtaking. With a stunning, modern countenance, views-to-die-for of Torres del Paine (the Towers) and Cuernos del Paine (the Horns), and the sound of the Salto Chico waterfall as we linger over amazing food and excellent Chilean wine. 
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The Explora guides ensure they get us out of bed. My favorite experience - a day-long hike to Grey glacier. And when we get really close, our guides hop into a little boat to fetch thousand-year-old ice from the glacier for little drinks of Pisco Sour! 

Patagonia’s Parc Nacional Torres del Paine has picture postcard views everywhere. If you are a keen hiker, try the Circuit or the W. I stick to day hikes as a rule - if you are like me, try Grey Glacier, French Valley Glacier or Base of the Paine Towers.

Going to Extremes

United States

Faroe Islands

Getting there on a little ferry tossed around on the surging Atlantic Ocean needs courage. As the boat uses all her resources to maneuver into a tight, rocky harbor, I wonder if the captain, who does this twice a day, is either extremely brave or completely suicidal. We step on to what looks like the sets of a Disney fantasy movie. Twenty colorful grass-roofed homes, one little schoolhouse - which has one child - and a bridge over the Atlantic.

I meet my guide Harald - a septuagenarian with poise to rival the curious sheep we see hanging precariously over the cliffs. Harald leads our little group on a 4-hour hike across the island to the lighthouse at the westernmost point of the Faroes.

Birds are everywhere - puffins, fulmars, kittiwakes, gannets - on the green hills, riding the ocean waves, occupying every inch of cliff space, filling the air with their calls, and circling the sky.

Beakful of fish

Svalbard & Jan Mayen

We arrive by RIB boat from Longyearbyen, dressed in survival suits, across a choppy Arctic Sea, with puffins and seals for company.

Isfjord Radio on Cape Linné, is an abandoned strategic communications station, with a decidedly interesting past, now converted into a stylish expedition lodge. 

Nothing could have prepared me for the extreme sense of isolation and wilderness. 

Imagine sitting all alone at latitude 79 degrees north and watching polar bears prowling outside the kitchen window. Two days ago, that is exactly what the staff at Isfjord Radio did.  After all, Svalbard’s travel slogan reads: “3000 polar bears, 2500 humans”. 

Hiking into the middle of nowhere, or along the coast looking for 1500-kilo walruses, is done with licensed guides, a couple of mandatory rifles for protection and huskies for company. It is a beautiful, stark landscape, filled with mystery and a sense of the unknown. 

Which direction should we head? Anywhere you want to go, comes the reply.

Extreme Wilderness

Tanzania

We spend nearly four amazing hours in the Sand River Circuit in the midst of a spectacular head of grunting wildebeest. Led by “collective intelligence”, these animals complete a 1000 mile loop over the course of a year, and most survive for several seasons of this tough journey! 

When we arrive in the Grumeti Reserves, further south, we find the last few hundred thousand or so wildebeest. Here they are extremely purposeful and move in a single-file. Perhaps they have realized that they are late and will miss out on all the new green grass in the northern plains. They kick up a storm of dust as they move forward with determination - though it is not unusual to see the whole herd running swiftly back if something ahead spooks them. 

It is here that we see the consequences of the ‘battle’ - injured animals or those too weary to complete the journey. This is sad to watch as they will soon become easy prey to the predators. 

Such is the ⭕️ of life.

One Million Wildebeest

Staying at the Inn at Death Valley, we thought we would be able to get up just before sunrise and make a dash over to Zabriskie Point. In hind sight, we should have woken up a good 60 minutes earlier, since the viewpoint was packed with people as we got there. 


The stunning views of the badlands slowly fill up with yellow, orange, purple and brown colors - and every hue in between - as the sun comes up, totally makes up for the early rise. Once the sun has finished painting the badlands, it reaches out to color in the Panamint Range across the valley with gorgeous pinks and purples. If you want to avoid the crowds, do the 2.5 mile Badlands Loop hike. Right after the walk, you can drive the short 3 mile Twenty Mule Team Canyon loop drive before returning to Stovepipe Wells for breakfast. 

We had been told that the Death Valley National Park is all about extremes - and the Zabriskie Point is a visual representation of that.

Chile

Magallanes and Chilean Antarctica

Going to Extremes

Faroe Islands

Mykines

Beakful of fish

Svalbard & Jan Mayen

Svalbard

Extreme Wilderness

Tanzania

Mara Region

One Million Wildebeest

United States

California

Painting with Light