No pasarán: Madrid Under Siege

This tour offers a primer on the Spanish Civil War as it was experienced in Madrid. Here, local Republican fighters and regular citizens held out against bombardment for three years, bolstered by the legendary phrase ¡No pasarán!, "They shall not pass!" You'll visit many surviving markers of the conflict, which can still be found within walking distance of the city centre, from machine-gun nests in one of Madrid's most beautiful urban parks to bullet holes in the walls of the nearby University City. En route you'll hear a story that tells not only of battle scars but also of communal spirit. The war remains a contentious subject, and we’ll tread lightly through some of the complexities of historical memory as we walk and talk. Stopping en route for traditional tapas, we’ll revisit that extraordinary period in local history, reflecting on the persistence of everyday life under fire, the siege's dramatic reversals of fortune, and the women and men who met on the front lines.

The impact and legacy of the Civil War are essential to understanding modern Madrid and contemporary Spain, and your guide is a resident author who has written extensively on the subject for various international publications. His scholarship combines with his passion for the city to make this an unbeatable private historical walking tour for anyone who wants a better understanding of the Civil War, and a closer, more intimate reading of this wonderful city. As part of this experience you'll sit to enjoy wine (or a nonalcoholic drink of your choice) and traditional tapas at a neighbourhood tavern close what was once the front line of the Siege of Madrid. This gives you a chance to discuss the themes and Madrid life in more detail, as well as appreciate how the city's geography has changed over the years.

Stephen Phelan is a working journalist who lives close to what was the battlefront of the Spanish Civil War in Madrid, and has a deep local knowledge of the relevant sites. He has written extensively about the conflict and its legacy for various publications, including Prospect Magazine and the Boston Review.

Comfortable walking shoes.