A Family Legacy in Beeswax

This is a rare opportunity to learn about the ancient cultural significance and rich history of candle making in an Indigenous Zapotec community. You'll experience the creative process of a master artisan who is at the heart of reviving this traditional art form in this community. You'll learn how these intricate works are made and even try your hand at beeswax flower making. A short overview of natural dyes used in their process will also be included, with a special focus on cochineal—once among the most valuable trade commodities for the Spanish, next only to silver and gold. You'll also discover how these candles have long played a key role in marriage proposals and other local traditions in this village. Afterward, you'll visit the town church to see the ceremonial candles in situ, followed by a traditional lunch in another town that is famous for their giant tree, which is said to be the widest in the world.

Maestra Viviana Alávez has been producing handmade candles for over 70 years. You’ll meet this inspiring woman, descended from a long line of artisans who have been creating custom works for more than three centuries. She and her family—spanning three generations—work with Mexican beeswax, natural dyes, and the same techniques their ancestors used. No other community in Oaxaca incorporates the tradition of elaborate marriage proposals with candles like this pueblo. In speaking with Maestra Viviana, you’ll gain insight into the realities faced by women of her era in this community, hear about her challenges and triumphs, and understand how both the local culture and her own life have evolved. By supporting this artisan and her family, you’re also helping to preserve a living legacy. Your set meal will be a continuation of local culture at a sublime choice for traditional fare in the Central Valleys of Oaxaca, which will include one mezcal or one beer person, for those who wish.

Ehren Seeland is a Oaxaca-based creative with a background in art and design and journalism, who travels the globe for professional and personal pursuits. A long-term resident of Oaxaca with family ties to the city, her passion for regional produce, traditional skills, and social impact makes her a fantastic host for the culturally curious and socially minded traveler. Through all of her projects—including Hecho, a marketplace of artisan-made goods from natural materials—Ehren maintains an active focus on supporting Mexican ancestral traditions through handmade product development, including textiles, pottery, homewares, and other works. Her projects also place special emphasis on supporting women and indigenous communities.

We recommend bringing a hat, water, comfortable shoes, sunscreen, and a camera or phone to document the process. It’s also a good idea to carry some cash in local currency if you wish to purchase pieces directly from the makers, though they do accept credit cards. That said, there’s no expectation to buy anything extra during the experience if you choose not to.