Testaccio in Layers

Testaccio is a historic district in central Rome, which naturally developed into the city’s first working-class neighborhood after Rome became Italy’s capital in 1871. This walk explores its layered history, from the former slaughterhouse—now a center for arts and innovation—to the Monte dei Cocci, an artificial hill from the 1st century CE made of broken oil amphorae unloaded at the nearby Emporio river port. In the same neighborhood stands the Non-Catholic Cemetery, final resting place of poets, writers, and political thinkers such as Keats, Shelley, Gramsci, Camilleri, and Corso. Testaccio is also where Maria Montessori first tested her educational method, where Gabriella Ferri sang of Roman life, and where Elsa Morante and Pier Paolo Pasolini found inspiration for their stories. This experience offers a deep look at a neighborhood shaped by labor, resistance, and now gentrification—where Rome’s social memory and urban evolution meet on every corner.

You’ll walk through Testaccio with a sociologist considered one of the most insightful voices on the neighborhood’s history and identity. This is about what the area has become and how it got there, and at what cost. You’ll explore the transformations of this former working-class district, now a hotspot for street food, nightlife, and urban renewal. The experience offers a critical perspective on these changes, highlighting how they can lead to growing inequality and the risk of turning neighborhoods into themed playgrounds. Along the way, you’ll look beyond the polished façades to discover craft workshops and family-run food shops that still hold their ground, resisting homogenized narratives. Testaccio becomes a case study of a broader phenomenon: the tension between authenticity and gentrification, resilience and change. You'll end your walk with a cappuccino and cornetto in what may be the last truly local bar in the district.

Irene Ranaldi is an urban sociologist and independent researcher based in Rome. She was the first in Italy to publish a study on gentrification comparing her own neighborhood, Testaccio, with Astoria in New York. Her work draws from historical archives and years of field research, focusing on the social transformations of urban districts and the shifting boundaries between city centers and peripheries.

Comfortable shoes.