The Vanished City

This historical walk traces Thessaloniki’s development from antiquity through Byzantine and Ottoman periods, using its religious and civic architecture. You begin at Trigoniou Tower, along the northern walls, where the city’s layered geography is visible from above. Then you follow the line of Byzantine fortifications toward the Monastery of Vlatadon, traditionally linked to the presence of Saint Paul. The route then descends into the historic city. You visit the small church of Hosios David, known for Christian mosaics, before passing the Ottoman Alatza Imaret and continuing to the Church of Saint Demetrios, Thessaloniki’s most important Byzantine monument. From there, the walk continues through the Roman Forum and the Rotunda, originally built as a Roman monument and later adapted for Christian worship. A short pause for coffee marks the transition from the upper city to the modern center. The walk goes past Arch of Galerius, Navarinou Square, and statue of Alexander the Great.

This experience focuses on Thessaloniki’s Jewish heritage, once one of the largest and most influential Jewish communities in Europe. For centuries, Jewish life shaped the city’s identity, with tens of thousands of residents forming a vital presence woven into civic, economic, and cultural life. This community was almost entirely eradicated during the Second World War, when more than 90 percent of Thessaloniki’s Jewish population was deported and murdered. The absence left behind is still palpable and lives on in the city’s memory. Walking these streets, you encounter not only architecture, but the traces of a people whose presence defined Thessaloniki for centuries and whose disappearance altered the city permanently. Eleonora, a licensed tourist guide, brings depth and clarity to the experience. Her knowledge and personal dedication help you understand the scale of what was lost and how the city continues to carry the memory of those who never returned.

Eleonora Porcelli is an Italian guide who has lived in Greece for more than twenty years. She holds a degree in philology and foreign languages and completed her training as a licensed tourist guide at the National School for Guides in Athens. Based in Thessaloniki, she approaches the city through its layered history, geography, and social fabric, offering a perspective that connects past and present with clarity and care.

Comfortable shoes and your camera. The walk covers about 4 km at a comfortable pace, mostly on flat ground, with breaks along the way.