Buenos Aires | Eating Choripan at La Boca | Since I knew that I was gonna travel to Argentina I wanted to visit La Boca. It is a little neighborhood w

land of - Fernwayer Travel Stories & Experiences

Argentina

Since I knew that I was gonna travel to Argentina I wanted to visit La Boca. It is a little neighborhood where you can find some of the most famous landscapes of Buenos Aires. 

At the time I arrive, via bus or “bondi”, as it is said there, it was full of people; eating, buying souvenirs, taking photos, etc.

I loved this experience so much that I don’t want to spoil anything to you, just take the chance and visit that amazing place!

Eating Choripan at La Boca

Bolivia

Driving in the wet season in Salar de Uyuni, it feels like you are in a sailboat on the ocean - splashing in the water and watching mesmerizing reflections of the sky. It’s incredibly surreal.

The newly discovered planet Crait in The Last Jedi was set in this breathtaking and luminous salt-covered land. We stay in a gleaming Airstream parked on the salt lake, and are greeted by a salt version of R2D2 that apparently starred in the movie.

On a still day at the start of the rainy season, a thin layer of water covers the salt, forming a great mirror reflecting the sky. It’s disorienting, because you can’t judge distance or perspective. 

The Salar is so flat across its 10,000 square kilometres, that the surface is used to calibrate the altimeters on board earth’s satellites. At dusk, we watch the International Space Station slowly cruising past in the sky above us, like a bright star, and we watch lightning in the horizon all around us.

Sky Above, Sky Below

United States

Botswana

“But in the Kalahari, it's always Tuesday, or Thursday if you like. Or Sunday. No clocks or calendars tell you to do this or that.” - The Gods Must be Crazy

Walking with the Zu/’hoasi Bushmen of the Makgadikgadi Plains in the Central Kalahari, quintessential hunter-gatherers, I learned several things that I hope never to have to use - how to pronounce first names that are laden with clicks, collect plants for medicinal recipes, dig for scorpions, and make a fire with twigs and leaves.

Makgadikgadi means 'dry, dry', but the bush men and women know how to live in harmony with the land. Family and cultural ties are strong.

Thanks to Jack’s Camp for organizing this visit, they have longstanding connections with the local people.

Walking with Zu/’hoasi

Meet the Lion. Landlord of the Okavango floodplains. The fearless prides of lions here are known to hunt buffaloes and elephants. They have large prides, with several young cubs. In the delta, as it is elsewhere, it’s all about power and opportunism.
🐃 | 🦁 | 🐘 
“The Okavango Delta is an astonishing sight: the great Okavango River, rather than flow towards the sea, flows inland, into the sands of the Kalahari.”- Alexander McCall Smith

The delta is clearly a fluke of nature, and the way to appreciate it best is from the air, especially in June and July when you can see the progress of the rain water flooding into the area and turning it into a lush paradise teeming with wildlife. 

It’s a very special place.

Lion vs. Buffalo

Canada

A visit to Fogo Island is all about the power of culture, art and community as catalysts for social and economic change. It’s a story of the indomitable spirit of people who refuse to give up their land.

First Impressions?  Minimalist winter scenery, it’s 🧊 season, one of Fogo Island’s seven  seasons. There are wooden Saltbox Houses, that must have leaped out of a child’s painting book. Reminders of fishing are everywhere. 

My favorite part of the trip is spending time with the islanders who do community orientations and cabin outings for visitors. These are people who are proud of their Irish or English heritage (seven or eight generations in Fogo Island notwithstanding) — who sing songs and tell stories of their ancestors, invite strangers into their homes to share salted cod and tea, take you on ski-doo for ice-fishing, teach you to forage for berries and show you how to preserve vegetables in mason jars to last through winter.

Far Away From Far Away

Faroe Islands

None of my map apps seem to work. After years of relying on a mechanical voice to navigate me in strange lands, I am back to poring over paper and asking for directions. I actually like driving here! 

Except when negotiating a one-lane tunnel. Then I am terrified! Unless I have right of way, I have to duck in - at just the right moment - into one of the spaces marked M, and stay there till the dark tunnel ahead is clear of oncoming headlights. This game needs nerves of steel! There are two such tunnels to get to Gásadalur, the waterfall that tumbles recklessly into the ocean.

The best photos require descending down the cliff to the beach below. There is a helpful set of concrete steps, and a big signboard in Faroese that can only be a warning, since it has a lot of exclamation marks. 

I hold on for dear life to the wobbly rusted handrail and descend half way before I realize that the rail isn’t connected to the cliff wall! The view, however, is just perfect.

Tumbling Recklessly

Iceland

On a snowy winter evening, we stand on a ridge and see the brightly-lit church through the mist ... an evocative but calming place. 

Very different from 1000 years ago as Vikings stood here and declared the laws of the land ... the oldest continuous two weeks in the summer parliament. People heard from their leaders, settled disputes and traded.

The best part of the Golden Circle circuit, Thingvellir National Park has hiking trails, waterfalls, summer cottages for the affluent (singer Björk has a home) and the Silfra fissure divers can explore between the American and Euroasian tectonic plates.

The sky is changing color. We should leave, we tell each other ... but we are drawn to the scenery like a moth to the flame.

Northern Mists

Morocco

Yves Saint Laurent gifted Jardin Majorelle to Marrakech, the city that adopted him and his partner in the 60s. They bought an electric-blue villa and its garden, preserved the vision of its original owner (landscape painter Jacques Majorelle), and opened it to the public. 

What makes this feel like a psychedelic mirage in the desert?

Hot pink bougainvillea bursting from terracotta planters. Architectural cacti in lemon-yellow planters. Bamboos growing against cobalt-blue walls. Colorful birds flitting through palm trees. Saint Laurent’s gorgeous collection of Moroccan art, that I totally covet. 

It also has a museum that features jewelry in a setting that our guide Khadija keeps referring to as “a dream”. A dark room with a star-spangled ceiling and low voltage spotlights shining on stunning jewelry sets.

Khadija’s right. Please let all my dreams be like this place.

Psychedelic Mirage

Namibia

I am in Kaokoland. Final frontier of Namibia. Home to the beautiful Himba people.

The last nomadic, herding tribe in southern Africa, they still maintain their dress and traditions. Red ochre paste for sun protection. Smoke from herbs for cleansing and perfume. Intricate hairstyles. Lots of leather jewelry. A beauty routine that takes three hours every single day to complete.

This young woman graciously agrees to be my ‘model’ - and is as curious about me and my traditions as I am about hers.

Land of Himba

Norway

I am sitting at a window ledge table in the kitchen of an authentic rorbu, a fishing hut on stilts. 

It’s after midnight during Midnattsol, but it’s hard to tear myself away from the view. Yesterday was bright and sunny, but today is stormy and the sea is asserting itself. 

This rorbu is located at the very end of the peninsula so there’s no escaping the force of the wind and the water in any of its rooms. The landing area has been left untouched – fishermen used to haul in their catch here via massive doors opening out to the sea – the old floorboards have gaps and you can see the sea underneath and hear the waves lashing on to the rocks. 

Reine is a scenic fishing village with bright red wooden huts steeped in tradition, once housing the fishermen who made their winter pilgrimage to the world’s most fertile cod fishing grounds. 

In summer, all that remains are the empty fish drying racks between houses, a reminder that – despite the stunning beauty, it’s a very harsh life.

Stay in a Rorbu

Svalbard & Jan Mayen

We arrive by RIB boat from Longyearbyen, dressed in survival suits, across a choppy Arctic Sea, with puffins and seals for company.

Isfjord Radio on Cape Linné, is an abandoned strategic communications station, with a decidedly interesting past, now converted into a stylish expedition lodge. 

Nothing could have prepared me for the extreme sense of isolation and wilderness. 

Imagine sitting all alone at latitude 79 degrees north and watching polar bears prowling outside the kitchen window. Two days ago, that is exactly what the staff at Isfjord Radio did.  After all, Svalbard’s travel slogan reads: “3000 polar bears, 2500 humans”. 

Hiking into the middle of nowhere, or along the coast looking for 1500-kilo walruses, is done with licensed guides, a couple of mandatory rifles for protection and huskies for company. It is a beautiful, stark landscape, filled with mystery and a sense of the unknown. 

Which direction should we head? Anywhere you want to go, comes the reply.

Extreme Wilderness

United Kingdom

Our plan: To walk through the magnificent Quiraing and climb to the base of the Needle, a 120 ft jagged pinnacle, for views of the Outer Hebrides.  

Weather forecast? Fair, says Harry, the winds will blow away the clouds and midges.

Highlights from the photo-hike: ☀️Awe-inspiring view of Loch Cleat (above). 💦 Scrambling over the steep cliffs on springy heather. 🐾 Checking out the structures that have been named — The Needle, The Prison, The Table — and naming those that haven’t. ⚡️Noting the exact moment when the weather turns on us. ❄️ Getting shrouded in mist and fog, and unwittingly playing hide-and-seek at the top of the ridge (this is, after all, where locals hid their sheep from raiding Vikings). 💨 Howling winds over 50 mph trying to gust us off the slopes. 💧Rain coming down in full force. ☁️ Feeling my spine tingle as clouds swirl around me in this unreal landscape.

Argentina

Buenos Aires

Eating Choripan at La Boca

Bolivia

Potosi Department

Sky Above, Sky Below

Botswana

Central District

Walking with Zu/’hoasi

North-West District

Lion vs. Buffalo

Canada

Newfoundland and Labrador

Far Away From Far Away

Faroe Islands

Vága Municipality

Tumbling Recklessly

Iceland

Southern Region

Northern Mists

Morocco

Marrakesh-Safi

Psychedelic Mirage

Namibia

Kunene Region

Land of Himba

Norway

Nordland

Stay in a Rorbu

Svalbard & Jan Mayen

Svalbard

Extreme Wilderness

United Kingdom

Scotland

Cinematic Drama