Why Visit Now: Santorini
Santorini, with its whitewashed houses and stunning vistas, is among Greece’s most visited islands. While its iconic sights are often crowded, there’s much to explore off the beaten path. Discover fresh reasons to visit in Nessa Humayun’s guide.
Santorini is the most popular and well-trodden of the Greek Islands, and for good reason. Its postcard-ready vistas have been documented for millennia, what with its cascading whitewashed houses, twinkling seas, cerulean-domed churches, and the striking red and black volcanic beaches that encircle the sunken caldera. It’s as close to epouranios — the Greek word for “heavenly places” — as you can get on Earth.
This summer season just gone saw Satorini’s mayor, Nikos Zorzos, warn that the Agean island had already hit “saturation point” prior to the Covid-19 pandemic and that overtourism is not just threatening its fragile ecosystem but the very structures it is built on. It is thereby recommended to practice mindful tourism, and visit the Cyclades during the months bookending summer to avoid crowds, and to truly enjoy the bucolic atmosphere Santorini was once known for.
There’s still plenty to go around, but arguably in bigger doses to the discerning traveller. Those who venture further afield will be rewarded with awe-inspiring natural beauty, sure, but also ancient, archeological ruins, secluded swimming spots, and mineral-laden, volcanic wine that can’t be found in mainland Greece, or anywhere else for that matter.
1. Make like a fisherman
Santorini’s caldera was the result of a devastating volcanic eruption circa 1600 BC, which likely wiped out the ancient Minoan civilisation. It now stands as a vast, water-filled crater that wraps the island in a near semicircle, making it the perfect vantage point to view the island’s flaming sunsets. Taking a boat trip around the caldera at dusk will guarantee a swarm of selfie sticks, but you can get a far more intimate experience via fishing boat.
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Set sail for the Mediterranean on traditional wooden kaiki vessels, captained by local skippers, by joining one of the many boat tours available in Vlychada. Haul in the nets, catch some fish, and have your catch expertly grilled for you as the sun descends. Proud of practising sustainable fishing by only pulling in as much as required for full bellies, Giorgaros are also doing their bit to unburden Mediterranean waters from several invasive species that have migrated to the shores in recent years by fishing, cooking and dining on them.
2. Soak in ancient vistas at Ammoudi Bay
Proof that Santorini has it all is in its striking red and black, volcanic sand beaches. Ensure to spend a day there, before hopping to the other side of the island for more secluded swimming spots. Ammoudi bay is a miniature fishing port that evokes the Greece of yore. Located 300 steps below Oia, the charming village is populated with bobbing fishing boats and authentic seafood tavernas, where you can see octopuses hung out to sun-dry in the morning. Walk five minutes past the last restaurant on the main strip, and you’ll find an excellent stretch of coast to dive into. Then, escape the lunch crowd by drifting further afield and checking out the local shops, where you can purchase crafts, ceramics and linens.
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You can reach the bay by taking the steep, stone staircase down from Oia if you’re up for it and wearing the appropriate footwear, otherwise, arrange for a taxi.
If you’re braving the walk, stop at the ruins of Oia castle — which was built in the late 15th century by the Venetians to guard against pirates — for sweeping views across the Aegean sea at sundown.
3. Explore “Greece’s Pompeii”
As the story of Pompeii goes; Mount Vesuvius erupted and covered the land with layers and layers of volcanic ash, preserving the city for centuries to come.
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Much is the same for Greece’s most famous archeological site, Akrotiri — an almost perfectly preserved look at the lives of the ancient Minoan civilisation, from Crete, who thrived in Santorini until the Theran eruption in 1600 BC.
While no human remains or livestock was found on the site upon excavation, leading experts to believe that civilians had time to evacuate, the site remains a priceless time capsule; replete with paved roads, intricate drainage systems, homes, decorative items and frescos.
Located a short walk from the Red Beach, it’s an unforgettable look at an ancient civilization lost to time.
4. You say tomato, I say tomato…
One of Santorini’s most famous exports is its iconic tomato paste. While that may not sound like enough to warrant an entire museum, the Tomato Industrial Museum in Vlychada may make you think differently... Located inside the Nomikos family’s tomato canning factory, you can look at kitschy archive images and videos that pay homage to the small-fruited Santorini tomato, which has been a Protected Designation of Origin (PDO) product since 2006.
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Learn more about the processing machines, factory manuscripts tools, labelling processes, workers, and most importantly sample some of that tomato paste. After grabbing a coffee from the cafe, stop by the gift shop for some unique souvenirs to bring home.
Make sure you check what’s going on at the museum before you visit, as it’s also an arts and cultural venue that regularly hosts concerts, talks, exhibitions and cooking lessons. If nothing’s on, there are always two permanent, rotating exhibitions spanning art and photography.
5. Foodies, follow the locals
As a general rule of thumb, you’ll pay a premium for anything near the caldera, no matter the season. The real heart of the island lies inland, in the picturesque villages of Emborio, Exo Gonia, Finikia, Messaria and Pyrgos. You’ll still get sculptural homes and cobbled paths, but with the addition of some of the most authentic food in Santorini — and if you’re lucky, there may be live folk music playing while you dine.
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The island’s former capital, Pyrgos, is situated at one of the highest points in the island, and boasts some of its biggest culinary gems. If you’re celebrating something special, you won’t go wrong with award-winning Selene, helmed by Michelin-starred chef Ettore Botrini. Nestled amongst vineyards, it serves up authentic Mediterranean dishes with an emphasis on championing local produce. For a more casual affair, head to Penelope’s for fresh mezze and crowd-pleasing classics, or if you’re looking for the full Santorini experience, complete with stunning vistas, Pyrgos Restaurant has been serving up traditional, quality fare since the 1980s.
6. Appease Dionysus
When you think of Greek cuisine, it’s likely of vinegary salads and grilled seafood, but it’s wine that takes centre stage in Santorini. Due to its climate and the mineral content of its volcanic soil, Santorini’s wines are unequivocally the strongest in all of Greece. Keep an eye out for white wines that hail from the Assyrtiko and Aidani grape varieties — these are saline-rich with notes of citrus and sea-breeze — as well as reds from the full-bodied, umami laden Mavrotragano grape.
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Fancy yourself an oenophile? Pay a visit to cool-kid organic winery, Hatzidakis. The tasting room is located in a cave under the family’s vineyard, which is known for producing the Mavrotragano grape variety. After your tour, taste up to five wines on long monastery tables and wooden benches, while snacking on goats cheese and breadcrumbs from Naxos island.
7. Get your music fix
Once labelled as burgeoning, Santorini’s music scene has really expanded in recent years. International dance music has found its place with the advent of Supa Dupa Fly, London’s finest hip-hop and R&B party, which hits the islands for four days every June.
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If you want to indulge in something more traditional, plan your trip for September when the International Music Festival of Santorini takes place in Fira, for intimate gigs and grand orchestral performances. There’s also the Jazz Festival in Kamari. Spanning the month of July, you can expect traditional jazz, interspersed with Greek folk music. It’s a great one to drop into as the concerts take place all over the village, including al fresco locations, on the beach.
8. Pack your walking boots
The island is a paradise for walkers, with routes promising views, wildlife and volcanic trails. The most well-known route takes you from the capital Fira to the village of Oia. If it’s your first time in Santorini and you want to get the lay of the land, this 7.7 mile hike takes you to the edge of the caldera with breathtaking panoramas of the Aegean. But if you’re looking for something different, one of the island’s rewarding walks goes through the largest of two uninhabited volcanic inlets at the base of the caldera, Nea Kameni.
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8. Enjoy world class art
For a quieter, more contemplative experience, dive deep into the island’s rich art scene. While it may be small at present, this is a budding market in Santorini, and there are unique galleries strewn across Fira and Oia.
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One cultural highlight is the Mati Art Gallery, located a stone’s throw away from Fira’s Metropolitan Orthodox Cathedral. Inside, artist Yorgos Kypris — who is deeply inspired by the Aegean sea — showcases work from both amateur and distinguished Greek painters, jewellers and sculptors.
If you fancy more, with a side of wine, pop into the Art Space Winery Gallery in Exo Gonia. Here, they celebrate the intersection between art and winemaking, which you can gaze upon while indulging in wines that are made on the premises.
