Why Visit Now: Oaxaca

Everyone loves Oaxaca. It’s an explosion of vivid color and mouth-watering aroma, creative genius and cobblestone streets adorned with papel picado. Everywhere you turn is a postcard-worthy photo opportunity, whether it’s the withered old woman selling tacos de canasta on the corner or a spontaneous assortment of brightly painted facades.

But it’s more than the hues and the food that draw visitors to the land of seven moles. There’s an undeniable lure in this vibrant city founded by the Mexica (Aztec) in 1486, which is why nearly 4.5 million tourists are estimated to visit by the end of 2024 — a figure that has almost doubled in four years. Travel + Leisure crowned it the world’s best city three times since 2020, Centro’s Selva Oaxaca Cocktail Bar made the 50 Best list, and Los Danzantes was awarded a Michelin star.

The time to visit Oaxaca is now, so bring your wallet, camera and appetite, because a visit to this buzzing Mexican hub should be an indulgent one.

1. Sweet, savory, and spicy Oaxacan delights

Few destinations highlight Mexico’s grand array of flavors like Oaxaca does. From the open-air market Mercado 20 de Noviembre to traditional Restaurante Catedral or aforementioned Los Danzantes, you’ll be no less than delightfully overwhelmed by the delicious choices that beckon from every angle.

Don’t leave Oaxaca without sampling its most famous bites. Start with mole, a rich, velvety sauce made from over 30 ingredients, including a blend of chilies, spices, and Oaxacan chocolate, typically served over chicken, pork, or mushrooms. Then there’s the giant, crispy tlayuda — often described as a Mexican pizza — loaded with refried beans, Oaxacan cheese, cabbage, avocado, and your choice of meat, making it the ultimate street food indulgence.

A classic Oaxacan tlayuda topped with melted Oaxacan cheese, fresh avocado, and vibrant veggies, offering a perfect blend of crunch and flavor.

Marcos Castillo

Don’t forget to try a ball of Oaxacan cheese, a salty, stringy, and addictive staple similar to mozzarella that you can often sample for free in local shops. And for the adventurous eater, a handful of chapulines — deep-fried or toasted grasshoppers seasoned with garlic, lime, and salt — provides a crunchy, tangy snack or the perfect topping for guacamole, tlayudas, or tacos.

2. Smoky sips of mezcal magic

Mexico is mezcal, and the manner in which it’s made in Oaxaca draws enthusiasts worldwide. That’s because the vast majority is produced using ancient methods — agave hearts, known as piñas, are cooked in underground pits, hand-milled, and fermented in animal skins or wooden vats. The liquid is then distilled in a clay or wood pot over direct fire. The final product is generally taken derecho (straight) and frequently served with sliced oranges and sal de gusano (worm salt) to enhance the flavor. Throw one back (or two) at local favorite El Cortijo Mezcaleria or the trendy Expendio Tradición, where singer Julieta Venegas made a recent appearance.

For a comprehensive mezcal experience that includes a tasting and a tour, head south. In one hour, you’ll encounter Real Minero. The team makes one of the best mezcals in the country, and the distillery visit is outstanding.

3. The perpetual fever of fiesta 

It’s no secret that Oaxaca City is a party town. The difference here is the fiesta is taken to the streets. With a remarkable 15 official festivals in a calendar year, your chances of witnessing a citywide celebration are high. The most popular is July’s Guelaguetza, a spectacular gathering of the region’s 16 indigenous cultures and the Goddess of Corn, Chicomecoatl. The most unique is December’s Night of the Radishes, where artists create elaborate designs from giant radishes, which can weigh up to 3.4 kilos (7 lbs) and measure over 76 centimeters (30 inches) in length.

Parades in Oaxaca showcase paper mache characters (monos) and giant spinning lanterns (marmotas).

Wandering views

Whichever festival you encounter, expect vibrant music, traditional dances, and flamboyant costumes. Arrive early with a folding chair to witness the classic Oaxacan parade, where participants carry monos and marmotas while marching through the streets.

4. Colorful craftsmanship and textile treasures

Everyone knows that when it comes to textiles, Oaxaca creates some of the world’s best. Local artisans dedicate significant time to honing their skill, resulting in high-quality craftsmanship. Each of the region’s 16 indigenous groups has its own unique weaving style, creating beautiful huipiles (blouses), rebozos (shawls), and sarapes (blankets). The intricate patterns and bright colors of Oaxacan textiles are frequently made on backstrap looms, using natural dyes from local plants and insects. To see the process firsthand, head one hour west to the craft lover's paradise of Teotitlán del Valle.

Watch artists at work in San Martín Tilcajete, where alebrije workshops are open to the public.

aindigo

Beyond fabrics, the region is known for pottery, basketry, and wooden crafts like alebrijes, the fantastical, colorful figures seen in abundance during Day of the Dead. Hover over the friendly artists as they show you tricks to design, carve, and paint the magical creatures at Jacobo & Maria Ángeles Workshop in San Martín Tilcajete.

5. Mesoamerican masterpieces of Mitla and Monte Albán

It seems Oaxaca’s penchant for expert craftsmanship started at least 2,500 years ago if the fallen empires of Mitla and Monte Albán are any evidence. And while these ruins are indeed on every “travel to Oaxaca” list, it’s for a reason.

Monte Albán, a UNESCO World Heritage site in Oaxaca, Mexico, showcases the breathtaking ancient ruins of a Zapotec civilization perched atop a mountain.

Kamira

The intricate stonework and geometric mosaics at Mitla are an architectural phenomenon, and the pyramid structures at the Mesoamerican powerhouse of Monte Albán are not to be missed. If you’re visiting the latter on a Sunday, plan a shopping spree at Tlacolula Market, a sprawling, chaotic, incredible tianguis that has been running since the Zapotecs lived in the region.

6. The scenic serenity of nature 

Pack your bathing suit and make your way east to the land of petrified waterfalls and natural pools. Hierve el Agua is a prehispanic irrigation system that was once a network of canals and terraces. For centuries it directed mineral-rich spring water to nearby fields for agricultural purposes, resulting in calcified rock formations that are now a nature lover’s Garden of Eden.

Relax in the natural and manmade pools while admiring the mountain views or go for a hike in the rugged mountains. Before stepping on the gas of your rental car, consider signing up for a tour or hiring a private guide with transportation included, which can be done in Oaxaca City’s Zocalo. Protesters have been known to block the road to entry, and it’s best to have the inside scoop.

Even the spring water in Oaxaca is bursting with bright color, like the thermal pools of Hierve el Agua.

Belikova Oksana

If Hierve el Agua isn’t on your to-do list, Benito Juárez National Park is a lovely alternative for those in search of views. Hike the park’s highest peak, El Cerro de San Felipe, to capture the dramatic scenery between Oaxaca Valley and the Sierra Norte mountains, perhaps catching a glimpse of a quetzal while you’re there. 

7. The visual vibes of Oaxacan’s art scene

If you’re a fan of visual art that borders on surrealism, you’ll find Oaxaca a dream. Start with the classics, like a stop in the small-but-mighty Rufino Tamayo Museum (MAPRT) just off the Zocalo for a look at his impressive collection of pre-Hispanic artifacts alongside his own famous works.

Pop into Museo de Arte Contemporáneo de Oaxaca where, amongst a range of contemporary creations, you’ll find vibrant, mythical pieces by the renowned Oaxacan artist Francisco Toledo. Change it up with a visit to Centro Fotográfico Manuel Álvarez Bravo, where photography exhibitions showcase established and emerging photographers from Mexico and worldwide.

Since the weather is likely agreeable, take a walk to El Barrio de Xochimilco, an adorable, hidden gem of a neighborhood that’s over 500 years old and full of street murals. If you’re in desperate need of vitamins, La Tribu has a menu of healthy juices and dishes including real salads!

8. The rooftop retreats for vistas and vino

Most likely, you’re going to make your way to Templo Santo Domingo de Guzmán. After all, the interior is gilded in gold and the church itself is considered the most famous in Oaxaca. After a spin through the nave, take a guided tour in the adjacent Ethnobotanical Garden for a glimpse at Oaxaca’s unbelievably diverse ecosystem.

After a day of sightseeing and revelry, perch yourself in front of this view with your favorite drink.

Jess Kraft

When you’re done appreciating the endless variety of cacti, agave, medicinal plants, and traditional food crops, head across the square to Restaurante La Rueca for a glass of wine on the rooftop. You’ll get a sweeping view of the church’s dome and the teenage couples canoodling on the beneath it. If it’s full, not to worry, Oaxaca City brims with sky-high terraces, including the highly-rated Casa Oaxaca el Restaurante and La Azotea Restaurante.