An Architectural History of Siracusa in 6 Buildings

A city with a unique charm, Siracusa is the proud heir of a Greek colony founded on the Sicilian coast nearly 2,800 years ago. In just a few centuries, it rose to become one of the most powerful and influential cities in the Mediterranean.

At its heart lies the small island of Ortigia, a picture-perfect slice of Italy. Think narrow, winding streets, jasmine and bougainvillea spilling over courtyards, open-air cafés in Piazza Duomo (often hailed as one of Italy’s most beautiful squares) artists' studios, the scent of trattorias in the air, trendy bars and the shimmering sea all around.

Though Ortigia, where ancient history and diverse architectural styles intertwine, is a highlight of our journey, Siracusa's historical richness extends far beyond the island. Our exploration of nearly three millennia begins in Neapolis, the monumental core of the city.

The Greek Theatre

Dionysius I, the 5th century BCE tyrant of Siracusa, was said to have a great love for the arts, particularly poetry, and even wrote plays performed in the city's grand theater. He once won an award for a tragedy at a dramatic competition in Athens. However, he was poisoned during the celebratory feast, leaving his potential career as a playwright unknown.

Ancient echoes fill the stone seats of the Greek Theatre, where tragedies and comedies once played out under the Sicilian sun.

Michele Ponzio

Despite the fleeting nature of worldly glory, the stones endure. The theater of Siracusa still stands, bearing witness not only to Dionysius' forgotten plays but also to the masterpieces of ancient Greek authors. Their verses echo on stage during the annual classical theater festival, held in May and June. Sitting on the steps of what was once one of antiquity's most impressive theaters allows for a journey back in time.

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The theater is the main monument of the Neapolis archaeological park, an area that preserves traces of ancient Syrákousai, including the Latomiae, picturesque stone quarries where slaves were forced to extract materials for temples, houses and streets. In the 16th century, lacking slaves to extract materials, Emperor Charles V ordered stone to be taken from the archaeological site for coastal fortifications. Fortunately, not everything was destroyed.

Address: Via Luigi Bernabò Brea

The Catacombs

In 61 CE, St. Paul stopped in Syracuse on his way to Rome. The city's bishop, Marcian, invited the preacher to celebrate Mass in a newly built crypt near Neapolis.

This crypt is considered the first place of Christian worship in the West and marks the start of a visit to the Catacombs of San Giovanni. The name comes from the basilica built above it in the 6th century and rebuilt multiple times. Today, it stands as a ruin, with weathered columns, crumbling walls and a 14th-century rose window.

Whispers of early Christians linger in the depths of the Siracusa catacombs, a silent testament to centuries of faith.

Vladimir Korostyshevskiy

A medieval staircase leads down into the crypt, where columns with Byzantine capitals and painted decorations depict Saints Peter and Paul, John the Baptist, St. Lucy and Marcian. From there, visitors enter the catacombs – a labyrinth of tunnels originally part of an ancient Greek aqueduct, now lined with empty tombs carved into stone. Only the catacombs of Rome are larger, a testament to the size of the Christian community in Syracuse.

A guide is essential to explore this underground labyrinth. Guides point out a tomb with small holes in its covering slab and explain the ancient practice of refrigerium – a ritual meal to nourish the souls of the dead and ease their passage into eternal life. During funeral banquets, milk, honey and wine were poured through the holes, and family members and friends ate by the tomb. The ritual was common throughout the Mediterranean area.

Address: Largo San Marciano 3

The Duomo

Christians eventually emerged from underground and began building churches. In Syracuse, the cathedral is the most significant testament to this period, symbolizing the city's interwoven history.

To visit, we move to Ortigia, the island where the Greek colony was founded in the 8th century BCE, and to Piazza Duomo, where the cathedral rises with its Baroque facade. The piazza is surrounded by Baroque buildings, including Palazzo Beneventano del Bosco and Palazzo Borgia del Casale, 18th-century manors, the latter open to visitors.

The Baroque splendor of the Duomo, where a Greek temple seamlessly blends with Christian architecture in the heart of Siracusa.

Francesco Stock

In the 8th century, a Christian bishop sought to build a cathedral. The easiest option was to reuse an existing building: the Athenaion, a temple that had dominated Ortigia's center since the 5th century B.C. Legend says Archimedes, a Syracuse citizen, positioned "burning mirrors" on the temple's roof, large slabs that, when angled, captured and redirected sunlight, setting fire to the Athenian fleet attacking the city. Despite the Christian conversion, the temple still stands, its columns visible inside and outside the cathedral.

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The church also features medieval details from the Norman period, a 16th-century ceiling and, in a chapel, the silver statue of Syracuse's patron saint, St. Lucy. The martyr has a dagger in her neck and carries a small plate with her eyes – a detail of Catholic iconography.

The cathedral has been a UNESCO World Heritage Site since 2005.

Address: Piazza Duomo

Castello Maniace

Our journey through Syracuse's history continues at Castello Maniace. Still in Ortigia, at the island's tip, the castle walls rise above the shore, resembling a stone ship. Its story began in 1038 when Byzantine General George Maniakes arrived in Syracuse, leading an army to reclaim the island from Saracen rule. He ordered the fortress's construction, and it bears his name today, though the current structure was rebuilt two centuries later by Emperor Frederick II.

Standing guard at the harbor's edge, Castello Maniace's imposing walls echo tales of ancient sieges.

Michele Ponzio

Over time, the castle served as a prison, stronghold, barracks and warehouse. Each occupant made changes. In the 16th century, it was incorporated into a city wall, using stone blocks taken from Neapolis. Visitors now walk among stones carved thousands of years ago, some from the Greek colony's theater and other buildings (recognizable by their lighter color).

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Inside, the hypostyle hall is the most impressive space, built in the 13th century, with ribbed vaults supported by columns with sculpted capitals. Even in a fortress, there was room for beauty.

Address: Piazza Federico di Svevia 5

The Church of Santa Lucia al Sepolcro

St. Lucy is a constant presence. The young Christian martyr from Syracuse was killed there in 304 CE. A small temple marks her burial site, but her body is gone. General Maniakes took it to Constantinople, from where it was later moved to Venice, despite pleas from Syracuse residents, who have had it "on loan" a few times.

Within the Church of Santa Lucia al Sepolcro, Caravaggio's masterpiece illuminates the saint's burial, capturing a moment of profound devotion.

Nessa Gnatoush

Next to the temple stands a medieval-looking church, our destination. Inside is "The Burial of St. Lucy," painted by Caravaggio. The large, dark painting (a light can be turned on for a better view) hangs above the main altar. Beside it is a stone column with a plaque explaining this is where Lucy was stabbed.

Once a year, on December 13, a procession carries the silver statue of the saint from the cathedral to this church, where it remains for eight days.

Address: Piazza Santa Lucia 1

The Sanctuary of Madonna delle Lacrime

The final site is the Sanctuary of the Madonna of Tears. Its towering, drop-shaped structure is the first sight for visitors approaching Syracuse. Construction took nearly 30 years, partly due to local protests against the massive concrete structure, which they considered overwhelming and unattractive.

Amid the grayness, the sanctuary's heart is a small plaster plaque of the Madonna, which reportedly wept for three days in 1953 and has since been venerated. The sanctuary is an example of architectural grandeur and local devotion.

And, if you get tired of all that modernity, you can just cross the street and dive into the past in the Paolo Orsi Archaeological Museum, discovering dwarf elephants, Gorgon heads, marble sarcophagi, and ancient coins considered among the most beautiful in the world.

Address: Via del Santuario 33