Can the Mexican cantina rise once again?
A symbol of Mexico for over a century, the cantina has experienced decline in recent decades. From its beginnings as a gathering spot for men only, the cantina transformed and adapted to societal changes, facing its ultimate challenge with globalization.
I slip into the metal chair topped with a cracked black cushion and inhale deeply. The scent of chili tingles the tip of my nostrils. A couple stands atop a makeshift stage in the center of the room, belting out Mexico’s favorite ballads — “Bésame Mucho” and “El Triste.” Families, couples, and groups of friends surround me, their voices muffled by the clinking and clanking of tequila bottles and small dishes of spiced nuts being set on each table. It’s 5 p.m. on a Sunday, and the place is packed.
Its fluorescent lights and Formica tabletops may be reminiscent of an American diner, but a Mexican cantina is nothing of the sort. Not quite a restaurant, not quite a bar, the beloved haunt that brims with Luis Miguel covers, Topo Chicos, and often-complimentary spicy shrimp tacos is more akin to a snapshot of Mexican culture.

Leon Rafael
The cantina has been synonymous with Mexico for years. It existed in the Star Wars universe and was featured as the backdrop in Under the Volcano, the 1947 novel by Malcolm Lowry. It appears in the biopic Frida, in Laura Esquivel’s book Like Water for Chocolate, and in many other acclaimed cultural productions. Within its walls are captivating stories rife with Mexico’s layered history: a violent revolution, oppressive classism, strict gender dynamics, and an unwavering commitment to joy.
After a century and a half since its first appearance, the cantina has transformed together with Mexican society. From its 19th-century beginnings as a space for community building, the cantina was forced to adapt to regulatory changes in the 1980s, the rise of cocktail culture in the ’90s, and the globalization of the 2000s whose impact is still felt today. Originally a gathering spot for men, the cantina appears to be losing its appeal. Which begs the uncomfortable question: Is Mexico’s beloved hangout in danger of extinction?
A hotbed for revolutionary ideas
When the first cantina in Mexico City opened in 1857, it quickly became more than a place to enjoy Mexican food and drink locally-produced spirits. The cantina proved something bigger — it was the catalyst for Mexico’s social scene. Here was a place where patrons could interact without time constraints, engaging in topics that ranged from sports to politics. It was lively, relaxed, and fun. Demand grew, and cantinas began to open by the dozens, peaking in popularity in the early-to-mid 1900s.
At the turn of the 19th century, when the rumblings of a revolution began to echo through the streets, cantinas started to pop up all over Mexico City. Their modest decor consisted mostly of wooden furniture and dim lighting, a central bar, and a few tables. Some had bathrooms; others had grated troughs below the bar for men to “take care of business” without losing their spot.
Patrons would chat, play cards, eat botanas (snacks), and drink to their hearts’ content — literally, as it was a rare occasion that the bartender would ever deny you another shot, even if you were unable to stand on your own.

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The Mexican Revolution, which began in 1910, was a complex and bloody conflict aimed at overthrowing the long-standing dictatorship of Porfirio Díaz and addressing deep social inequalities in Mexico. It was driven by a variety of factions, from peasants demanding land reform to intellectuals and workers seeking political and social justice.
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During this time of unrest, cantinas became more than just social gathering spots – they evolved into spaces where political ideas were exchanged and radical sentiments grew. Cantinas provided a refuge where the common people, intellectuals, and even insurgents could meet, discuss the state of the nation, and organize, thus becoming intertwined with the revolutionary spirit and Mexico’s quest for social change.

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At that time, everyone, from revolutionaries to non-uniformed soldiers, could be found strategizing over mezcal. Which is why the cantina, despite its role as an escape from the social upheaval outside, wasn’t always a peaceful place. Emotionally charged conversations about politics or ideologies often led to foul language and violence. Perhaps this is the reason you’d often find signs tacked above the entrance saying "Entry prohibited for dogs, women, beggars, uniformed individuals, and minors.”
Legend has it that the famous Pancho Villa, in town to sign a pact with fellow revolutionary Emiliano Zapata, shot his pistol into the ornate ceiling of Bar La Opera, the historic center’s most elegant cantina. The bullet hole still exists.
Cantinas for all
Mexico was, and is, a classist society. At the time of the Revolution, societal restructuring was uneven enough to leave the wealthy with more money to spend. Cantina owners wanted pesos, so it was critical to create an atmosphere where an upper-class gentleman would feel at ease.
As a result, the cantina was considered no place for a lady. Mexico’s rampant machismo culture meant a female’s place was in the home and not at a bar, since no respectable woman would ever sip an alcoholic beverage in public. Only a fichera, a type of escort, was granted access through the swinging wooden doors to the smokey, boozy boys club.
In 1982, everything changed. Shifting social norms and women’s fight for equality led to a new decree. Ladies could now enjoy the right to drink in the cantina of their choice.
Artist Alberto Ángel ‘El Cuervo’ reportedly lamented that “the cantina is dead... the woman killed it.
Some establishments accepted the new law with open arms. From the doors of Salón Tenampa, the first cantina to embrace the new creed, women were welcomed with a “Pásale, mamacita, no te detengas!” (Come on in, sweetheart, don’t hesitate!). Staff at this iconic cantina in Plaza Garibaldi were used to having ladies around — in the 1940s, Amalia Díaz took over management duties upon her husband’s death, leading the cantina through its “Golden Age.”

Arne Beruldsen
Not everyone was happy, though, and many cantina owners showed resistance by annexing women to separate sections of their establishments.
Artist Alberto Ángel ‘El Cuervo’ reportedly lamented that “the cantina is dead... the woman killed it”. As time went on, however, patrons and staff accepted the new rule and anyone, from toddlers to tíos, is now invited inside a cantina.
The end of the cantina?
According to El Economista, there were more than 3,000 cantinas in Mexico City in the early 1900s, nearly 200 of them located in the historic center. Less than a century later, 1,250 remained in the city, and the historic center’s count dropped to just 65.
The 2000s were no better. From 2008 through 2022, at least 10 of Mexico City’s oldest drinking holes shut their doors for good. El Nivel, the first establishment in the city to receive a liquor license in 1857, lost an ongoing legal battle with the National Autonomous University of Mexico. That loss resulted in a fight for custody of its building. Other notables, such as La Mundial, La Vaquita, and Bar La India, closed during the COVID-19 pandemic.
The survival of cantinas depends on the willingness of owners to adapt to modern times.
Mexico City guide Francisco Ibarlucea says there are two reasons for the cantina’s statistical decline. For starters, many of the most dedicated patrons have since passed on, and their grandkids don’t come to cantinas “even as a joke.” In addition, a notable lack of nightlife in the city centre has diverted the younger crowd’s attention to trendier neighborhoods like La Roma and La Condesa — not areas for cantina hopping.
Does that mean the cantina is in danger? Adrian Muñoz of 106-year-old El Dux de Venecia in Azcapotzalco, Mexico City, doesn’t seem to think so. "The survival of cantinas depends on the willingness of owners to adapt to modern times and the acceptance of these changes by their customers.” Allison Cedillo, representative of Salón Tenampa, thinks similarly. "Changes in consumer preferences have impacted traditional establishments. However, the most iconic cantinas, like Salón Tenampa, manage to stay alive thanks to their historical value and their ability to adapt to modern times." And they seem to be adapting just fine.
What was once a men’s club now hosts women, children and tourists. Menus have expanded from simple snacks to multi-course dinners. Decor has changed - what was once a modest watering hole is now plastered with photos of celebrity patrons and colorful papel picado dangling from the ceiling. Owners have embraced the power of social media, reaching new customers through reels of their signature dishes or live musicians. Despite the global rise in costs, the most successful cantinas have managed to stay within a price range that satisfies their dedicated clientele.
As we can see in the case of El Dux de Venecia, Salón Tenampa, and countless others, as long as owners adapt to changing trends, the cantina will be just fine. And since keeping people happy is what Mexicans do best, the cantina is likely to stick around for a long time.
What to expect when entering a Mexico City cantina?
In short, a great time. The fundamentals of a solid cantina experience include live music, food and drink, and a laid-back atmosphere.
A typical evening out at a cantina should, above all, include drinks. Many of them. From fancy cocktails to mezcales derechas (shots of mezcal) served with a local cerveza, booze abounds. Check with your server to see if any specials are on the menu - many cantinas follow the tradition of free bites with three drinks.

Marcos Castillo
Speaking of bites, even if they don’t come free, you can be sure that prices will be reasonable and the cuisine rich. Classic cantina dishes include tortas (sandwiches), soups, tacos, quesadillas, even mole. Many serve paella on the weekends, and all will be thrilled to offer you their signature dish.
Come as you are, but order in Spanish. Weekend evenings are generally the busiest, though I’ve popped into a packed cantina on a Tuesday and a near-empty one on a Saturday. The most important thing is to let go and have fun. In the eloquent words of Muñoz, “let yourself be carried away by the relaxed and unpretentious atmosphere that exists in a cantina.”
While imbibing, you can be almost 100% sure you’ll hear some live music. Whether it's a scheduled orchestra or a band of traveling mariachi, there will come a point that you’ll be encouraged to sing Juan Gabriel’s greatest hits alongside your neighbors. Arm yourself with the lyrics and let loose.
Six cantinas to visit in Mexico City
Headed to Mexico’s sprawling capital and not sure which cantinas to go to? Here’s a short list to get you started.
1. El Dux de Venecia
Year opened: 1918
Neighborhood: Azcapotzalco
You’ll love it if: you’re looking for a locals-only spot to watch a game and sip a fresh beer.
Famous patrons include crooner José José and boxing champs Mantequilla Nápoles and Rubén Olivares.
2. Bar La Opera
Year opened: 1918
Neighborhood: Historic Center
You’ll love it if: you’re drawn to opulent Porfirio-era architecture and a classy atmosphere.
Famous patrons to the oh-so-elegant Bar La Opera include President Porfirio Díaz, Carlos Fuentes, Octavio Paz, and of course that feisty Pancho Villa.
3. Cantina Tío Pepe
Year opened: 1869
Neighborhood: Historic Center
You’ll love it if: you like a dark and sultry ambience and a mixed bag of clientele.
Famous patrons of one of CDMX’s oldest cantinas include Gang of the Gray Car, a group of thieves who used police uniforms and fake search warrants to rob wealthy families before jumping into their gray getaway car.
4. Salón Tenampa
Year opened: 1925
Neighborhood: Historic Center
You’ll love it if: you’re in the mood for a vibrant fiesta with lots of laughter and mariachi music.
Famous patrons at Plaza Garibaldi’s most famous cantina include almost every actor, singer, politician and athlete in Mexico’s storied past, notably Pedro Infante, Chavela Vargas and the one and only Sol de México, Luis Miguel.
5. Cantina La Jalisciense
Year opened: 1870
Neighborhood: Tlalpan
You’ll love it if: you’re seeking an intimate, neighborly corner bar with a guaranteed hearty botana del dia (snack-but-more-like-a-meal of the day).
Famous patrons include the Mexican poet Renato Leduc.
6. Salón España
Year opened: 1915
Neighborhood: Historic Center
You’ll love it if: you’re a fan of bull-fighting – this cantina doubles as a matador museum.
Famous patrons don’t matter when you have the self-proclaimed ‘best eats in the Historic Center’ and at least 190 bottles of tequila on hand.