Cultivating Resilience in Mendoza
Mendoza’s wineries are adapting to climate change with sustainable farming and technologies. This wine region is redefining grape growing and harvesting, overcoming challenges and innovating in response to various shifts.
Compared to the more hectic neighboring visitor hotspots of Salta and Córdoba, Mendoza offers a distinctly different pace of life. That was certainly the case when I arrived here, in one of the most walkable cities in western Argentina. The wide, tree-lined streets seemed to invite long strolls, while the soft hum of conversation drifted from outdoor cafés where people lingered over late lunches. Even the afternoon sun, casting long shadows across the broad avenues, seemed to move more slowly here. It’s hard to see how the city could be any more laid-back.
It wasn’t always like this. In 1861, an earthquake leveled the city. The colonial buildings that marked Mendoza’s skyline were destroyed, and the city had to be moved and recreated from scratch following a modern urban plan, with more open spaces to reduce the impact of future seismic activity.
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New Mendoza was built in a desert, but the construction of a network of acequias — artificial canals used for irrigation — transformed the arid landscape into a green environment where parks and gardens could thrive. Acequias, first built by the Huarpe people and expanded by Spanish colonizers, funneled snowmelt from the mountains into the city using gravity, allowing for the limited water resources to reach agricultural lands.
This diverse mountainous region was put under the global spotlight in 1997, when it served as the backdrop for "Seven Years in Tibet," the Hollywood film starring Brad Pitt.
The cinematic beauty of Mendoza’s altitude landscapes, however, isn’t the only thing the region shares with the Tibetan plateau. Much like the Himalayas, Mendoza is under threat from climate change. The region only gets 200 millimeters of rainfall each year and the rising temperatures have increased the risk of drought and intense storms can wash away nutrient-rich soil, damaging crops essential for the livelihood of the province’s rural communities.
Yet, while the dangers of global warming are serious, Mendoza knows what it means to rebuild and adapt. Given its history of reconstruction and transformation, it’s no surprise that Mendoza is leading the way in climate resilience in Argentina.
Olive oil and tomatoes are sought-after fruits of this land, but the province’s crown jewel is its grapes. Mendoza’s most famous grape is one that even those with little interest in wine will recognize — Malbec. If you get up early enough, a brisk cycle through the hazy vineyards and groves of Maipú will set the scene for some of Argentina’s best wine-tasting experiences. But wine in this region is more than just a drink. The grape harvest is so important that it is celebrated every year at the Fiesta Nacional de la Vendimia. In the first week of March, performers take to the streets, a queen is chosen, and fireworks are released to celebrate. This festival occurs all over the province, making the wine harvest the cornerstone of the Mendozan year and a pillar of the local culture.
Emmanuel Rey
As the largest producer of wine in South America, Mendoza’s industry plays a key role in the local economy. The region’s high-altitude position, however, means that climate-proofing is essential to its future.
The Era of Climate-Conscious Winemaking
Tradition and geography are the primary factors driving sustainability, according to Santiago Achával, a winemaker and founder of Matervini, a winery in Luján de Cuyo in Mendoza. The desert ecosystem is fragile, and the irrigation systems deliver precious supplies of mountain glacier water, which must be used responsibly. It is also common for winemakers to pass their estates to younger family members. “We work with an intergenerational aspiration in mind,” he said. “We want to pass on the vineyards to our children and grandchildren in an even better state than we received them.”
Argentina has embraced organic wine, so much so that it is now one of the top 10 producers in the world. Bodega Antigal Winery and Estates in Mendoza’s Maipú area is one of the many vineyards and wineries with 100% organic certification, shunning the use of chemical fertilizers. “A significant portion of the country’s wineries produce their most prized product, wine, without harming the environment,” said Soledad Mayorga from Bodega Antigal’s team. “Our clients and consumers take the adoption of sustainable practices by wineries as a given. It is no longer seen as an added value but rather as an integral part of the offering,” she added.
In viticulture, it is traditional to produce compost using cuttings and grape waste to keep the nutrients associated with a certain type of terroir. A scientific study on Mendoza’s Malbec proved the existence of specific terroir characteristics by analyzing 201 wines from 23 locations. This testing allowed them to identify different areas and vintages, with variations in flavor profiles from village to village.
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Vintners map Malbec’s genome to improve both the quality — in terms of aromatics, hue, and flavor profile — as well as its resilience to stressors. While this is not new in the wine industry, it is being embraced in Mendoza to preserve the region’s heritage in the era of climate change. “Vines are amazing at capturing the essence of their environment, turning nutrients and water into a high-quality product,” explained Daniela Mezzatesta, the biodiversity and living soil manager at Terrazas de los Andes in Luján de Cuyo. Several sustainable practices have become the norm in the winery, from encouraging biodiversity to drip irrigation, which uses less water. “We don’t just focus on sustainable practices in the vineyards, but also on the inputs we use, how we produce, its packaging, transport, and the broader impact we have on the environment and communities,” she added.
Tourism in a Changing Environment
“The wine industry is a cornerstone of Mendoza's economy, and sustainable practices ensure its long-term viability by preserving soil health, reducing operational costs, and enhancing wine quality,” says Magdalena Pesce, CEO of Wines of Argentina. But preserving Mendoza’s vineyards is not just about keeping the region’s wine culture alive. These plants are well-placed to support sustainability in all areas, including local social causes, wildlife and biodiversity conservation, ecotourism, organic farming, renewable energy and biodynamic agriculture in other sectors.
Eco-tourism is becoming especially important in the region. Aside from wine and fresh produce, there are many adventurous pursuits to try.
Hernan E. Schmidt
Travelers can go ziplining, white-water rafting, tubing, kayaking, horseback riding, paragliding, fishing, and canyoning in its beautiful valleys or the Atuel Canyon. When snow falls, skiers line up to traverse the vertiginous slopes. The incredible Mount Aconcagua in the Cordillera range of the Andes is a big draw for mountaineers as the highest peak in the Americas. “The region’s rich cultural heritage, including its traditions and cuisine, provides a unique experience for eco-conscious travelers,” says Pesce.
Those who are less adventure-minded can soak in the Cacheuta Hot Springs or explore the Puente del Inca, a colorful natural bridge. Many of these activities have the added bonus of treading lightly on this awe-inspiring landscape. “There is a big community of responsible locals helping to create activities that explore this in a fashion that keeps it viable for future generations,” Achával explained.
In sparsely populated areas like this, businesses must connect with those around them. Julia Zuccardi, head of tourism and hospitality at Bodega Santa Julia in Maipú, believes that being part of the community is the cornerstone of a sustainable wine estate. “We prioritize people by creating programs for completing education, establishing training centers, and offering employment opportunities, such as embroidery work for women, as well as providing childcare facilities.”
Tourists on the wine route can visit as many of these properties as their itinerary allows, as vintners share their climate-friendly setups, which can include graywater irrigation, solar panels, flow meters, LED lighting, cooling buildings with climber plants, and recycling, as well as other technologies. Small wineries are much better placed to experiment with sustainability innovation than larger corporations, which is why so many of them have multiple certifications demonstrating their environmental commitment.
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There is something for nature lovers too, even though at first glance there doesn’t seem to be much wildlife in the desert. The plants here are mainly xerophytic types, which are resistant to drought, and halophilic plants that thrive in salty soils. If you look closely (or get up early enough), this desert habitat sustains more species than most people imagine.
I will never forget watching viscachas foraging in Argentina’s high-altitude hillsides, and I would have missed them if the guide hadn’t pointed them out. Finches, hawks, vultures, eagles, and kestrels ply the skies above the vineyards by day, and owls hunt there by night. At dusk and dawn, foxes and pumas stalk their prey in the natural pathways created by the placement of the vines. Viewing these creatures is an experience that can be enjoyed by those who stay in hotels or campsites in vineyards. Staying close to the Andes also makes it easier to enjoy the peace after the day-tripping wine tasters have returned to Mendoza.
“It’s a wonderful place to explore, not just because it’s our home, but because every corner of Mendoza showcases breathtaking scenery, always framed by the majestic Andes Mountains,” concluded Zuccardi.
Experiencing Mendoza’s Wine Culture
The main wine regions in Mendoza are Luján de Cuyo, Valle de Uco, Maipú, San Rafael, and San Martín. Maipú is the closest to the city and the most historic.
Fear not about drinking on an empty stomach, as many wineries provide plates of cooked meats, cheese, local olives, and empanadas (meat- or vegetable-filled pasties) to enjoy on a terrace overlooking the vines.
Many of these wineries allow walk-ins, so you can cycle around at your leisure without having to adhere to a strict schedule. However, it is easy to book online if you want to guarantee a place or meal at a certain winery. As the evening draws in, some estates put on traditional Argentinian barbecues for visitors to enjoy before getting a bus or taxi back to the city. Those who are more gastronomically inclined can take Maipú’s "olive road," where several farms allow you to tour and taste their oils.
If you want to learn more about local wine culture, visit the Museo Nacional del Vino y la Vendimia, and if you’re after a culinary experience, join a cooking class! When it's harvest festival, make sure to book accommodation and transport in advance.
