An Insider's Guide to Guadalajara's Crafts Scene
Centuries of artisan tradition come to life in the Mexican city of Guadalajara. Gaby Solis leads us through the city's best markets and workshops, revealing the stories behind exquisite pottery, sculpture, papier mâché and more.
Nestled in the heart of the western state of Jalisco, Guadalajara’s cultural legacy has shaped Mexican identity – “Mexicanidad” – more than any other city in the country. Think of tequila, mariachi and charrería. They all hail from here. But beyond these cultural icons lies a thriving craftsmanship scene that reveals another side of the city – it’s creative and artisanal heritage.
From galleries to workshops, concept stores and more, the city’s artisanal spirit is everywhere you look. The tradition is especially alive in the municipalities of Tonalá and Tlaquepaque – once small towns that are now part of the metropolitan area of Guadalajara. Here, streets are lined up with blown glass workshops, ornate textiles ateliers, and studios working with metal and other materials.
As I strolled down the municipalities' streets, it became clear to me that the craft that truly stands out is the art of ceramics and pottery-making – one that has been passed down for generations since pre-Hispanic times.
The timeless art of pottery making
“Guadalajara is more renowned for its clay crafts than any other state in Mexico,” Master Artisan Filiberto Macías from Artesanías El Alcatraz told me, as he showed me around the workshop.
Founded by mother and daughter Gabriela Gómez and Fernanda Solís, this women-led family business creates everything from small to medium to large clay pots. “Everything is handmade,” Mr. Macías, who’s been in the craft for over 40 years, explained. “We use our hands to give shape, our feet to press the lathe’s pedal, and a galvanized wire and a piece of plastic to help shape the pieces,” he added. The only two machines the artisans use are a mill for grinding clay and a mixer for mixing black and white clay – a task that, not long ago, was done with their feet.
Pots are made using clay from the surrounding areas of Guadalajara, before firing them in brick ovens at a temperature of around 1050 degrees Celsius. According to Mr. Macías, the clay they use has no added chemicals except for the natural elements of the soil.
The earthy scent of the workshop reminds me of the famous line of a mariahci song: “Guadalajara, Guadalajara, you smell of wet soil.” I’m sure the city’s rich and aromatic soil is what inspired that popular song.
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My conversation with Mr. Macías reveals that he’s passionate about his job as an artisan. “I just never get bored,” he remarked proudly. However, he expressed concern that younger generations are losing interest in the craft because of the physical labor it demands. “It’s hard to be a pottery artisan,” he said. “Still, I think it’s a beautiful craft.”
From soil to a multicolor sculpture
Guadalajara’s rich soil also fuels the work of plastic artist César Lucano, whose pieces have been displayed in several museums across the city.
“As a kid, I used to go to museums and get inspiration from the works of art I would see behind glass cases,” Lucano told me. “Now, I get to see my own pieces admired by kids and adults behind museum windows, and that’s a beautiful thing.”
Lucano specializes in policromado en frío (cold polychrome clay), a technique that consists of painting a clay sculpture with different colors after being fired in a brick oven. He also works with engobe, a clay-based slip applied before firing that gives the sculptures a smooth and glazed surface.
César Lucano
But as an artist who embraces innovation, Lucano has faced push backs from fellow artisans who refuse to incorporate new techniques to centuries-old craftsmanship traditions.
“Many artisans don’t like it when you start to innovate, and they’re the first ones to attack and belittle one’s work,” he said. “But when you follow your ideals and firm ideas, there’s nothing that can bring you down – and over time, they begin to respect you.”
From his workshop in the heart of Tlaquepaque, Lucano has carved a name for himself in Guadalajara’s artisanal scene thanks to fresh and imaginative creations influenced by his childhood in Tlaquepaque.
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“I grew up amongst galleries, workshops, artisans, musicians, and so many talented people,” he told me. “It was fundamental for my career to have grown up in Tlaquepaque.”
Highlights of his work include polychrome clay puppets representing pre-Hispanic deities, and his modern twist on the traditional Tlaquepaque clay piggy bank, which he recreated with a face mask and bold, vibrant colors.
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Where wood and volcanic rock meet
Craftsmanship is a family affair in Guadalajara. Sisters and industrial designers Marcela and Tania Medina combined their talent to create Duplo, an artisanal product-design studio that works with wood and volcanic rock to create home décor items.
From small plant pots to tequila cups, coasters, tortilleros (container to keep tortillas warm), and more, the Medina sisters work hand-in-hand with artisans to keep the region’s artisanal techniques alive. “Collaboration is the most important thing for us,” Marcela told me from her workshop in Zapopan. “That openness on both sides is what makes the project really work as a duo.”
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The studio’s name Dupla, (duo) is a nod to this fundamental collaboration. The sisters sell their products in Mexico and abroad. But despite their large production, Duplo’s process continues to be entirely artisanal. “We fell in love with the culturally rich artisanal techniques that surrounded us, and that’s why we chose to apply our knowledge as industrial designers, in craftsmanship,” Marcela told me.
Respecting the artisanal process also reflects Guadalajara’s true spirit: passion for craftsmanship and attention to detail, they said. “Working with talented local artisans contributes to preserving these traditional techniques while bringing them to a global and contemporary market,” Tania said. “In this way, we create a perfect balance between tradition and modernity.”
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Keeping the art of papier mâché alive
Papier mâché, which consists of building sculptures with a crushed paper paste or torn strips of layered paper, is not originally from Mexico. However, it became popular in the 1970s and 1980s when Mexican artist Segio Bustamante featured papier mâché in his early sculptures. Other artists followed, and the craft soon became a beloved part of Mexican folk art.
“Folk art requires hours of work,” artist Cristina Gómez told me from her workshop in Tlaquepaque. “The resulting pieces of art are not just decoration items. They are the heart of craftsmanship and tradition.”
From alebrijes (colorful creatures combining animal and imaginative features) to catrinas (the iconic colorful skull of Day of the Dead), papier mâché – also known as cartonería– has allowed artists to celebrate Mexican traditions in playful and creative ways.
Argelis Rebolledo
Yet, this once thriving craft is a nearly lost art. “There are fewer artisans practicing this craft, because it is not well paid,” Gómez told me. While many papier mâché artists work with upcycled materials that are typically cheaper to get, Gómez said that sourcing them still comes at a cost. “I like to use marbles, glass, and henequen,” Gómez said. “And I don’t get them for free.”
For Gómez, the decline in interest is not only economic – it’s also technological. “Just think about the newspaper [commonly used for this technique] – it used to be a staple in every house but it’s now barely existent because everything is online.”
Despite these challenges, Gómez remains dedicated to keeping this art alive. “I consider myself a rescuer of the craft because I fell in love with it and pursued it as a profession, and because I teach it to younger generations,” she proudly told me. With over 15 years in the craft, Gómez has no plans to stop.
Blending tradition with contemporary ceramics
Reflecting Guadalajara’s rich ceramics heritage, visual artist Servando Cumora’s work focuses on preserving and rescuing artisanal techniques, seemingly weaving them into contemporary pieces. Through his creations, he explores the relationship between tradition and modernity, as well as the dialogue between craftsmanship and contemporary art.
“I capture experiences related to space, time, rhythm, and movement – elements that define the conception of each piece of art,” Cumora told me.
From his workshop in Guadalajara, Cumora creates utilitarian ceramic pieces using clay from the area and other parts of Mexico. To shape the pieces, he uses an electric lathe and adds texture using various materials, such as pine needles to apply clay slip. Once finished, pieces are fired at high temperatures between 1220 and 1300 degrees Celsius.
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While his work has earned him national recognition and opportunities to exhibit his creations across the country, each exhibition presents a new challenge. “But once the exhibition is over, it reignites my passion for creating new pieces,” he said.
As someone passionate about his art, Cumora enjoys teaching it to others, for which he founded Entre Barro Estudio, “an inclusive space to create and experiment with ceramics,” as he puts it. From coffee cups, to plates, vases and more, enthusiasts get to participate in a craft that embodies the artisanal spirit of Guadalajara.
