A Wine Lover’s Guide to Morocco

Morocco may not be the first country that springs to mind when you think of a blossoming wine culture. While Moroccan wine may not be as well known as European varieties, over the past few years I’ve discovered a world of winemaking that is innovative, sophisticated and gradually earning its place on the global fine wine map. 

The origins of Morocco’s wine industry

Moroccan winemaking is far from new. It's believed that grapes were first turned into wine in Morocco by the Phoenicians in 800 BCE, but it was the Romans who established a winemaking tradition eight centuries later. Having arrived and settled in the north, the Romans set about planting vines – alongside their now-ancient ruins – in Volubilis, Lixus and Chellah. Grapes were enjoyed as part of their lavish lifestyle and were considered an important part of Roman culture. When Islam was introduced to the country by the Arabs in 700 A.D., the wine industry all but shriveled up, kept alive by Jewish and Portuguese settlers.

Many of the vineyards found in Morocco today have their roots in the colonial era, although grapes have been fermented here for thousands of years.

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In the early 1900s, the French arrived. They set to work reintroducing vines, planting European grape varieties, and developing Morocco’s viticulture. Throughout the 20th century, under the French Protectorate, Morocco’s wine industry began to take shape, kick-started by the opening of Morocco’s first winery, Thalvin at Domaine Ouled Thaleb. Established near Casablanca in 1926, it is still in operation today and is known for producing one of the country’s most popular Syrah red wines. In the 1950s, Celliers de Meknès was founded by a Moroccan businessman, Brahim Zniber; to this day, it remains the country’s largest and best-known wine producer.

After Morocco gained independence from France in 1956, there was a period of uncertainty for the wine industry. However, in the 1990s, King Hassan II, having graduated from the University of Bordeaux, recognized the potential in the wine trade, and Morocco’s wine industry bounced back under his rule. In 1998, Morocco's first Appellation d'Origine Contrôlée (AOC) – certifying that a wine is produced in a specific area – was established. It was around this time that ambitious French winemakers, keen to escape the rules and regulations of their own country, arrived with experience and energy, ready to create Moroccan wines.

Moroccan wine today

Today, Morocco is revealing itself to be a progressive Muslim country with a booming wine industry. Home to 14 recognized wine-growing regions, it produces around 40 million bottles of wine a year. Red wine makes up about 70% of the country’s production, and a popular gris, a pale rosé, accounts for around 20%. Morocco has gained the attention of global wine critics who are keenly following its evolution and applauding its high-quality wines. Having realized the potential in their grapes, Morocco’s winemakers have been investing heavily in their creativity and equipment, modernizing cellars and production, and experimenting with different winemaking techniques.

Morocco’s diverse climate and geography have allowed for the development of 14 wine regions scattered throughout the country.

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The country’s unique climate – high mountains, the cooling Atlantic Ocean breeze, hot days, and cool nights – gives it its “as nature intended” potential for producing quality wines. In addition to the terrain, the country's soil types range from sand to limestone and clay, creating ideal conditions for diverse and interesting wines. From my discussions with winemakers, it’s clear that they are enjoying experimenting with different winemaking techniques, using new barrels, North African spices, and interesting blends. Many wineries are also focusing on organic and sustainable practices. All this, coupled with Morocco’s adaptability and resilience, is what’s making the country’s wine scene so attractive, interesting, and tasty.

Winemaking regions and where to drink 

Thalvin Wines at Domaine Ouled Thaleb, on the coast between Casablanca and Rabat, is Morocco’s oldest winery. Created by Rhône Valley winemaker the late Alain Graillot, today visitors can experience the Domaine and wines at their restaurant, Riad des Vignes. Their Syrah wine, Tandem, has been globally recognized as one of the country’s finest wines.

Further north and inland, Meknès is the heart of Morocco’s wine industry, with its well-draining soil and generous hours of sunshine. It is home to the country’s largest wine producer, Les Celliers de Meknès. Their flagship property, Château Roslane, a proud member of Relais & Châteaux, is a large winery set in 700 hectares. It features a luxury boutique hotel, a traditional wine cellar that can hold 3,000 barrels, and a fine dining restaurant that would blend in easily alongside its global counterparts in Napa Valley, Stellenbosch and Bordeaux.

A luxurious resort sits in the middle Château Roslane surrounded by 700 hectares of vineyards and olive groves in Meknès, one of Morocco’s most important wine regions.

Stefano Berca

Also in the Meknès region is the boutique, family-run winery Domaine de la Zouina. Founded in 2011 by two French winemakers who chose the site for the terroir’s richness and the uniqueness of the soil and climate, it is now home to award-winning wines such as Volubila, Epicuria, and a delicious peppery olive oil.

Tasting sessions at Domaine de la Zouina will introduce you to the unique qualities of Moroccan wine.

Sally Kirby

Arriving here after driving through the nearby market town of Boufekrane and arid farms, I was amazed to find ornate gates opening onto a sweeping drive lined with vineyards, fruit orchards, and a pretty tasting villa where tastings are enjoyed on oak barrel tables overlooking the vines, fir, and fig trees.

Take a tour of the wine cellars to learn about their winemaking production process, how they care for the vines, and how they overcome the challenges of long periods of drought and intense heat. In recent years, they have been experimenting with their winemaking processes, using a mix of clay, metal, and oak barrels. End your cellar visit with lunch or a generous wine tasting and local cheese platters with homemade bread and their award-winning olive oil.

Meanwhile, in southern Morocco, just outside Essaouira, some 20 kilometers inland from the Atlantic coast, you’ll find the flower-filled Val d'Argan estate, where vines are threaded into argan trees. It is here that French winemaker Charles Melia, having established himself in the Châteauneuf-du-Pape region, arrived during the 1990s. Why? The quality of life, cheaper land than in France’s winemaking regions, and less rigidity compared to the French system. Melia chose the site – over Argentina and New Zealand – as an experiment.

Clay and wooden barrels fill up the cellars of Domaine de la Zouina, patiently refining new vintages of the French-run brand.

Sally Kirby

Benefiting from the cooling Atlantic breeze, the vines are grown close to the earth, with the leaves designed to protect the grapes from direct sunlight. A camel is used to plow the vines, more energy-efficient than tractors and better acclimatized than horses. Val d’Argan was certified as Morocco's first organic winery in 2006. Melia’s wines are different from those in the northern regions; in this area, with its dry, red soil, Grenache Blanc, Viognier, Muscat, and Roussanne grapes grow best. You can visit for a poolside tasting, lunch, or book a stay at their on-site guesthouse, Riad des Vignes.

Wine in Islamic Morocco 

When I first arrived in Morocco in 2018, I was surprised to hear that wine was produced in the country. Naively, I had assumed that alcohol, being forbidden by Islam, would not be produced here. The statistics speak otherwise: 80% of Morocco’s wine is consumed within the country. I have since visited Casablanca, Marrakech, Tangier and Rabat, where there is a growing appreciation for, and, in licensed premises, easy access to, Morocco’s fine wines.

Wine drinking is more widespread than many visitors reaching Morocco for the first time expect.

Sally Kirby

I grew up in the UK, a culture where alcohol is widely available. Coming to Morocco and having friends with such mixed opinions on alcohol has been eye-opening. Many have never and would never consider drinking wine for religious reasons. Wine is considered an intoxicant and therefore haram – or forbidden – by Islam. When I asked more questions, I was told the reasoning behind this is that alcohol can be detrimental to health and, when overconsumed, makes the process of distinguishing between right and wrong difficult, which can lead to harmful actions and disruption to society.

That said, Morocco’s government recognizes the importance of the wine trade and is supporting its growth by offering tax incentives, providing financial support for wineries, and exploring the development of wine tourism. The product speaks for itself, backed by wine critic ratings and accolades. If you’re keen to find out for yourself, look for Moroccan wines at your nearest wine shop – they’re stocked worldwide now – or on fine wine lists when traveling through the country.