Ormos Ammoudiou | Fish Tavernas | The perfect way to view the red pumice layers of Santorini is to walk from Oia to Ammoudi. Just 214 steps down, the 

decentralized administration of the aegean - Fernwayer Travel Stories & Experiences

Greece

The perfect way to view the red pumice layers of Santorini is to walk from Oia to Ammoudi. Just 214 steps down, the going down part was easy since the reward is a meal at one of Ammoudi’s legendary fish tavernas by the sea. 

🐙,| 🦑 | 🐡 

We buy fresh seafood by weight - the classic order of octopus and calamari along with some fish -  and it’s grilled right then and there. The sights and smells of the sea are so familiar and similar - whether in this hidden Santorini cove or at home in San Francisco.

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The walk back up to Oia is challenging on a more than full stomach. As we reach the top, we see the setting sun and that makes it all worthwhile.

Fish Tavernas

United States

Pyrgos is a trendy hilltop medieval village. It’s full of little winding, narrow streets constructed haphazardly on the hills alongside multi-colored houses and doors. We lose our way several times and keep looping back to the same point .. using that as an excuse to check out yet another local art gallery constructed unobtrusively into the hillside. 

During the 15th and 16th century, the locals defended themselves from pirates by erecting kastelias .. fortified buildings. Pyrgos has the best example of these medieval buildings on the island. It also has the oldest churches.

We stop at a home with a large blue door .. and the views are stunning but give an impression that Santorini is flat and covered by vineyards instead of being a caldera. 

The one fascinating feature of homes here is a long, deep chimney for ventilation. And the strong winds make howling noises through the chimneys.

In Pyrgos, we visited vineyards ... but that’s a different story.

Old Blue Doors

In Santorini, we discover and fall in love with Vinsanto, the local dessert wine. So we drive up to Hatzidakis - a charming and intimate local winery - to check out the local grapes. The vines grow low to the ground and close to the road and we almost drive into them while looking for parking. 

The grapes are grown in an unusual way, not in arbors but low to the ground, in baskets made of vine stalks themselves. They are organic and are watered mostly by dew as the island has low water supply.

The tasting room is cave-like and we take home several bottkes of the small batch Vinsanto they produce.

Vinsanto

Each evening, we wait for sunset to happen ... in fact the whole town stops whatever they are doing and gathers near the edges of the cliffs In Oia. 

It’s a ritual that we quickly make our own. We time our dinner, walks and activities so that we can get a prime seat to watch the performance. On the odd day that we miss it ... being on the wrong side of the caldera ... we feel we’ve missed a significant event in our day.

🌅 | 🌆 | 🌄

Each evening, the sun obliges and puts in a grand performance. 

The setting sun can look rather different in a cloudless sky. Santorini rarely has a cloud. Maybe one every two days ... making the sunset even more glorious. Flaws build character.

Greece

Decentralized Administration of the Aegean

Fish Tavernas

Old Blue Doors

Vinsanto

Cloudless Sunset