Buenos Aires | Cycling through Buenos Aires | Buenos Aires is one of the southernmost capitals in the world and also an exciting city. Although there 

best of - Fernwayer Travel Stories & Experiences

Argentina

Buenos Aires is one of the southernmost capitals in the world and also an exciting city. Although there are many ways to explore Argentine city life, biking is the most fun.

Biking is free in Buenos Aires, at least for a few hours. Using an app I downloaded to my phone, I spent the next few days biking around the Botanical Gardens, the best museums, art galleries, El Caminito, the riverfront, and the city's largest flea market (on weekends only!). While you’re at it, you can also visit one of the most beautiful cemeteries in the world in Recoleta.

The bike paths are well developed, and if you follow the signs, you'll find the main points quickly. Be careful, helmets are not available. If you want to be on the safe side, rent one in one of the bike rentals.

Cycling through Buenos Aires

Colombia

Fruity, dry, red, white, sweet, sparkling — wine is delicious, and the best way to discover what this powerful potion has to offer is to take a bike tour through the vineyards (yes, on a bike). Mendoza is the best place to choose one of the hundreds of tour operators. 

Mendoza is the most popular wine-growing province in Argentina. And Bodega Tempus Alba has a perfect climate for growing high-quality grapes, and the majestic Andes Mountains provide the backdrop for some of the most beautiful pictures of vineyards to be found anywhere in the world.

Whether you're biking or not, a proper tasting tour will give you enough wine to come home tipsy. That's why I recommend eating well before your tour and taking a break when the magic of wine goes to your head.

I also spent some time hiking in the area, exploring the small villages in the area, and eating the best Argentine empanadas around. A trip for the senses, for sure.

Vineyards and boozy tours

[⛪️] 
Salta’s old town center has rich history and a living folk culture. Colonial facades, neo-classical architecture, church with bell tower and crowds of happy people meeting up with friends before dinner. 

[🎤] 
My night ends at a peña (music/social club) where local musicians perform songs and the audience sings and dances along.

[💃] 
There’s the chacarera, a lively partner dance with much stomping. During zamba, couples circle each other, waving white handkerchiefs. Finally in the cherished malambo, a male gaucho performs his best steps to show off his strength and boldness to upstage other competitors. Then the dancers go around the room looking for partners from among the audience, and it’s fascinating to see the eagerness of the crowd to join in. 

[🍷] 
There’s a lot of Fernet-and-Coke - or the local Torrontés - on the tables to go along, and soon everyone is singing to the chorus. Their spirit is infectious.

Folklore Movement

United States

Australia

The best thing about visiting Australia is that scenic views and spectacular nature are just a stone's throw away, no matter where you are. If you're in Sydney, you won't get a better view of the ocean than walking through Royal National Park and taking Bundeena Drive to Marley Walk.

Passing through scenic heathland with small trees, you'll soon come to a bushwalk through a denser forest. We saw many native bird species, including the famous cockatoo, had a dip in one of the pools along the way, and took stunning sunset photos as you look out over the wild ocean. The tourist highlight is Wedding Cake Rock, but our personal star was Marley Beach, a dreamy, hidden sandy beach where you can relax and dip your feet in the refreshing water.

You can rent a car and drive directly to Bundeena, but we decided to take the train from Sydney to Cronulla and from there take the ferry to Bundeena.

Day Hike: wedding Cake Rock

Best of Melbourne Tour

Botswana

Meet the Lion. Landlord of the Okavango floodplains. The fearless prides of lions here are known to hunt buffaloes and elephants. They have large prides, with several young cubs. In the delta, as it is elsewhere, it’s all about power and opportunism.
🐃 | 🦁 | 🐘 
“The Okavango Delta is an astonishing sight: the great Okavango River, rather than flow towards the sea, flows inland, into the sands of the Kalahari.”- Alexander McCall Smith

The delta is clearly a fluke of nature, and the way to appreciate it best is from the air, especially in June and July when you can see the progress of the rain water flooding into the area and turning it into a lush paradise teeming with wildlife. 

It’s a very special place.

Lion vs. Buffalo

The Coffee Triangle - which includes the pueblo towns of Salento and Filandia - has its own culture, diversity, food and of course, coffee. 
[☕️]
I was told that I would find the best cup of coffee in the world in Colombia’s Zona Cafetera. I found some of the tastiest beans in little vintage cafes with vintage coffee machines. The coffee plantations nearby offered tasting sessions too. Part of the fun Is to climb on the back of a colorful Jeep to get to the plantations.

On the Coffee Road, in the colorful town of Salento, the biggest attraction - besides the coffee and the arepas - is its traditional architecture of one- and two-story buildings, with walls painted white, and doors and window frames in the brightest of candy colors.

Coffee Culture

Faroe Islands

None of my map apps seem to work. After years of relying on a mechanical voice to navigate me in strange lands, I am back to poring over paper and asking for directions. I actually like driving here! 

Except when negotiating a one-lane tunnel. Then I am terrified! Unless I have right of way, I have to duck in - at just the right moment - into one of the spaces marked M, and stay there till the dark tunnel ahead is clear of oncoming headlights. This game needs nerves of steel! There are two such tunnels to get to Gásadalur, the waterfall that tumbles recklessly into the ocean.

The best photos require descending down the cliff to the beach below. There is a helpful set of concrete steps, and a big signboard in Faroese that can only be a warning, since it has a lot of exclamation marks. 

I hold on for dear life to the wobbly rusted handrail and descend half way before I realize that the rail isn’t connected to the cliff wall! The view, however, is just perfect.

Tumbling Recklessly

Finland

At Riisitunturi National Park, ancient trees enveloped in layers of sticky snow (called ‘tykky’ in Finnish) assume fantastical shapes of monsters, ghosts, birds and families of snow people. On days like this, when sunrise and sunset happen within a two-hour window, backgrounds are brushed in pinks and yellows, and foregrounds etched with tracks of reindeer, dogs and humans. 

Snow is something more than frozen water to the Sami people. It’s a way of expressing the basis of their existence.

Best time to visit? Late December to March. Getting there from Rovaniemi takes more than 2 hours each way, but the trails are easy - we did a 4 km.

Shape of snow

Greece

Pyrgos is a trendy hilltop medieval village. It’s full of little winding, narrow streets constructed haphazardly on the hills alongside multi-colored houses and doors. We lose our way several times and keep looping back to the same point .. using that as an excuse to check out yet another local art gallery constructed unobtrusively into the hillside. 

During the 15th and 16th century, the locals defended themselves from pirates by erecting kastelias .. fortified buildings. Pyrgos has the best example of these medieval buildings on the island. It also has the oldest churches.

We stop at a home with a large blue door .. and the views are stunning but give an impression that Santorini is flat and covered by vineyards instead of being a caldera. 

The one fascinating feature of homes here is a long, deep chimney for ventilation. And the strong winds make howling noises through the chimneys.

In Pyrgos, we visited vineyards ... but that’s a different story.

Old Blue Doors

Greenland

Disko Bay is the Iceberg Factory for 10% of Greenland's icebergs. Sadly, production has increased in recent years, with Spring melts as early as April.

Nothing prepares you for the disorientation - and wonderment - of the brilliance of a midnight Sun. Especially when surrounded by massive icebergs that reflect and mirror the sky and the sea.

I don't remember seeing this yesterday, I tell the boat captain, is this a new work of art? He laughs, and tells me that everyday is  a bit different. 

The midnight boat trip in end-July - as the sun sets just for a few minutes - is the best time to see the sky’s amazing colors reflected on the icebergs.

Iceberg Factory

Guatemala

‘Lake Como surrounded by volcanoes’ is how Aldous Huxley described Lake Atitlan. 

The lake is surrounded by 11 ethnic towns and villages and we rented kayaks to explore the villages. We passed several fisherman in their cayucos and saw some birds but peacefulness was the prevailing sentiment.

We met an 82 year old woman weaver and her daughter in San Juan village who use only natural dyes for weaving their huipiles. While we caught only one word in four, we enjoyed a vigorous conversation on which animal and plant dyes they use to create color.

San Pedro village had very happening cafes and bars. Guatemalan coffee is as good as the best we have had with its high elevation and warm humid climate creating a well balanced coffee.

The Tzumen ‘Ya’ Museum was interesting to learn about the culture and lake formation.

Village Hop on Kayaks

Iceland

On a snowy winter evening, we stand on a ridge and see the brightly-lit church through the mist ... an evocative but calming place. 

Very different from 1000 years ago as Vikings stood here and declared the laws of the land ... the oldest continuous two weeks in the summer parliament. People heard from their leaders, settled disputes and traded.

The best part of the Golden Circle circuit, Thingvellir National Park has hiking trails, waterfalls, summer cottages for the affluent (singer Björk has a home) and the Silfra fissure divers can explore between the American and Euroasian tectonic plates.

The sky is changing color. We should leave, we tell each other ... but we are drawn to the scenery like a moth to the flame.

Northern Mists

India

My taxi driver, Chand, tries his best to persuade me to change the plan - “K.R. Market is a complete mess in the rainy season”, he argues, and for effect, twists his head around to the back seat to look at my tunic, shakes his head, and declares woefully — “You will be covered in mud and smelly water”. Sadly for him, I can’t resist a wholesale flower market. 

At sunrise every day, the southern end of Avenue Road lines up with a couple hundred flower vendors. Business between 5 to 8 a.m. is hectic and noisy.. Since it’s well past 10 a.m. now, I weave my way instead through stalls of vegetables, fruits and spices to find the building where these vendors disappear to after their morning sales. 

Chand is right about the mulch smells and slushy floors.  Climb up to the second floor to find a quiet spot to view the action from above. Or wander through the narrow passages, as I do, stepping around baskets full of flowers. 

For the record, my tunic remains mud-and-slush-free.

Bed of Roses

Mexico

Tacos al pastor, elotes, chilaquiles, quesadillas, ceviche – the list goes on, because Mexican food is not only tasty but offers hundreds of different things to try. Anyone visiting Mexico City must, by all means, do a street food tour – a culinary and cultural adventure.

If you want a more adventurous Mexico City street food experience, there's no better place to venture than Mercado de San Juan, known for serving up crawlies and edible insects. 

Famous for being Frida Kahlo’s weekly shopping spot, Mercado Coyoacán is a little more expensive, but once you've tried the Tostadas de Coyoacán or fresh pulpo, you’ll forget about the price. For more hipster, upper-class street food, you can also try Mercado Roma – I’ve had some delicious sweet Pan de Los Muertos.

Taste the best street food

Namibia

I am never going to climb a sand dune again. I say that vehemently (many times) as I climb Dune 45.

After 50 long, sand-filled minutes taken to trudge up, here are the lessons learned: Take slow steps. Barefoot works best. One step forward will indeed feel like two steps backward. Don’t stop. Don’t get disheartened if a sprightly guide whizzes past you in an attempt to beat his own 10 minute record. When you have reached the peak and admired the view, scream a joyful “whee-eee” and slide down the side of the dune, marveling at the roaring sound of the minor avalanche that you will create. 

Ok, can we do that again? 

Nearby is Dead Vlei / Sossusvlei. It’s a kaleidoscope of yellow and orange sands and the white of the stunning vlei. Meanwhile, the oryx are vying with each other to position themselves strategically into my shots. They seem to have no issues with climbing dunes. Then again, I don’t see them doing any joyful slides down.

Don’t Stop

Portugal

Porto is a city with a unique mystique! its old buildings, colorful houses, the particularity of its wines and the joy of its people, make it a must-see.
The most exciting thing about not planning my stay was getting lost to find myself in small places rich in gastronomy, flavors that I never experienced before, local markets with the best ambient and desserts that made every minute in this city worthwhile.

Find yourself in Oporto

Spain

Whether you're a beginner kite surfer or an experienced surfer – Southern Spain is one of the best spots in Europe to practice all kinds of water sports. We spent a whole month on the beaches of Cadiz, jumping waves and visiting nearby tourist attractions. Tarifa is a bohemian town of shabby charm, with a lot of bars and nice places to eat Spanish bocadillos. Our host told us that the city is blessed with wind about 300 days a year, making it perfect for kitesurfing. There are many affordable surf schools for those who still have to learn – just walk around and ask for the weekly price. If surfing is not your thing, you can also go stand-up paddleboarding – or relax on the sandy beach, drink a fruity cocktail, and read a book about Spanish history.
 Also, Morocco is just a day trip away. Tangier, the fascinating city within 30 minutes of Tarifa, once populated by artists from all over the world, is worth spending a day or two there.

Tarifa Surf Mecca

Finding a green oasis in a big city like Madrid is always a treat for the soul. The Retiro Gardens are not just any park but an elegant garden that was royal property until the 20th century.

You'll find all sorts of exciting monuments and gardens in it, including the Jardín de Vivaces, the Jardines de Cecilio Rodríguez, the Rosaleda Rose Garden, and the Parterre Francés, which features a 400-year-old cypress tree (named after Montezuma, the Mexican Aztec king). 

Among locals, El Retiro has a reputation as the best place to exercise, take a Sunday stroll after lunch, or just hang out with friends and family. If you've had enough of walking (which we for sure had after 4 days in Madrid), you can go rowing on the lake in the park, or sit down and enjoy the beautiful view.
The park is also home to some excellent restaurants and cafes – during summer in Madrid, there’s nothing better than a refreshing iced tea.

The place to be for Madrileños

If you are interested in rare natural phenomena and want to learn more about marine life, you should head to Mexico's Pacific coast. One of the best spectacles is the annual whale migration, where you can catch unique glimpses of humpback whales. 

The largest mammals on earth have earned their reputation as the most beautiful, intelligent, and impressive creatures. If you watch the ocean at migration time (either from the shore or on a boat tour), you'll see baby whales leaping and maybe even hear mother whales calling their families together. The baby-whale season is from January until the end of April.

But the Pacific coast is not only known for whales. It's just as beautiful to watch sea turtles hatch. If you come at the right time, you can witness mother turtles laying hundreds of eggs overnight in the soft sand on the coast, and much later, those hundreds of babies hatch and crawl toward the sea. Come between late August to early October.

Witnessing whale migration

If you want to explore Spain on foot, you should definitely set out on one of the pilgrimage routes through the country. All routes lead to the Cathedral of Santiago de Compostela in Galicia, which is located in the northwest. As a UNESCO World Heritage Site, the Camino de Santiago has been named a central point of cultural exchange – and a historical highlight that shows what medieval Spain looked like. We chose to follow the famous Camino Frances. The original 800km route takes 5 weeks, but we decided to get in a little later, we only had 11 days, and opted for the route starting in the Galician town of Sarria. Along the way, you'll meet many other tourist pilgrims, but you'll also be able to immerse yourself in the local culture and taste Spain's best delicacies (tapas, seafood, and Spanish Serrano ham). Be prepared for a lot of walking – and take the best walking boots you have. We’ve enjoyed every minute, but some people we met had the wrong equipment, complaining about blisters.

The “French” pilgrimage route

A road trip through Spain is literally the best option for those looking for a local, less touristic experience. You can basically rent a car anywhere you want – we started in Barcelona, heading down the coast, and taking stops in Ebro Delta and Denia and other sleepy beach towns down the road. One of our highlights was the Spanish town of Cartagena – a historical hub with beautiful angled roads, traditional culture to explore (expect to be invited to some Cerveza by the locals), and history lessons about Phoenician traders, Roman soldiers, and Christian Reconquistas. If you have some days left, visiting Andalusia is a must. It's by far the most beautiful region in Spain and is known for its majestic horse breed, pristine beaches, hot weather, and super friendly culture. 
All in all, it took us two weeks to get down the coast – but you can make it in a week as well – though you might have less time to explore, sunbathe, and learn about the history of Spain

Off-the-beaten-path

Ukraine

No matter what day it is today, visiting a new bar can be a good idea. Today, we’re going to Cocktail’ka. They say they have the best author cocktails in the city. Let’s go and check it 🕶

Argentina

Buenos Aires

Cycling through Buenos Aires

Mendoza Province

Vineyards and boozy tours

Salta Province

Folklore Movement

Australia

New South Wales

Day Hike: wedding Cake Rock

Victoria

Best of Melbourne Tour

Botswana

North-West District

Lion vs. Buffalo

Colombia

Quindio

Coffee Culture

Faroe Islands

Vága Municipality

Tumbling Recklessly

Finland

Lapland

Shape of snow

Greece

Decentralized Administration of the Aegean

Old Blue Doors

Greenland

Qaasuitsup Municipality

Iceberg Factory

Guatemala

Sololá Department

Village Hop on Kayaks

Iceland

Southern Region

Northern Mists

India

Karnataka

Bed of Roses

Mexico

Mexico City

Taste the best street food

Namibia

Hardap Region

Don’t Stop

Portugal

Porto District

Find yourself in Oporto

Spain

Andalusia

Tarifa Surf Mecca

Community of Madrid

The place to be for Madrileños

Witnessing whale migration

Navarre

The “French” pilgrimage route

Region of Murcia

Off-the-beaten-path

Ukraine

Kharkiv Oblast

Cocktail’ka