Taking a Cloud to Eyüp

Turkish poet Mevlut Ceylan wrote, "Clouds take me to Eyüp; perhaps they know something." This experience follows that pull. It begins with meeting Noémie for a ferry ride from Karaköy along the Golden Horn to Eyüp. From the pier, you walk into the village past Ottoman wooden houses that have largely vanished from Istanbul. You visit Eyüp Sultan Mosque built on the site of the tomb of Abu Ayyub al-Ansari, companion of Prophet Muhammad. For centuries, it saw the coronation of every Ottoman sultan. With Noémie, you access the women's gallery, which offers a different vantage on the interior. A cable car takes you up the hill to Pierre Loti's garden — named for the French novelist who fell in love with the city and a woman named Aziyadé and wrote his novel in its coffeehouse. Some rooms remain furnished as they were in his day. The terrace opens over the Golden Horn. Finally, you descend through Ottoman-era Eyüp Cemetery — described as one of the most contemplative places in the city.

Eyüp is a different Istanbul. Writers have long been drawn here — Loti wrote his novel here; Mevlut Ceylan still writes about its pull. Pilgrims come to pray at the tomb. Istanbullus walk the cemetery on ordinary afternoons as part of the ziyaret practice — reminding the living to live well. The few photographers who make it up the Golden Horn come for the wooden houses, the stonework of the tombs, the view from the terrace. Noémie shapes the route thoughtfully for mood and pace. The city receding across the Golden Horn, the cable car up, the walk down through the cemetery — all give you time to see and to photograph. Photographing a sacred district takes more than getting on the ferry. It takes someone who understands the etiquette, has the sensitivity to lower the camera, and knows how to be present in the spaces you visit. Noémie has spent over a decade getting to know Istanbul as a photographer and a resident. Her insider/outsider perspective brings depth and care to this walk.

Noémie Deveaux is a French photographer and photography teacher who has lived in Istanbul since 2013. Alongside portrait and family photography, she runs photo workshops focused on helping people slow down and compose with intention. Her approach is practical, calm, and attuned to what each participant is trying to see. She teaches both phone and camera photography, adjusts to any level, and is as comfortable helping someone catch a first strong composition as she is working with someone who already has an eye. She opens doors to discover not only new locations, but also new perspectives and creative possibilities.

Comfortable walking shoes — the route includes a short village walk, a descent on stone paths, and time on the terrace. Bring your best camera, or your phone if that's what you shoot on. Modest clothing appropriate for a working mosque: shoulders and knees covered for everyone, and a scarf to cover your head if you are a woman entering the mosque interior. Shoes are removed before entering.