Inside Nishi Honganji

Nishi Honganji Temple is a showcase of Edo-period temple architecture, with seven structures designated as Japanese National Treasures. Among them are parts of the temple's inner sanctuary — chambers generally off-limits to the public except on rare occasions. One of the temple's resident monks opens the experience with a private dharma talk, a reflection on Buddhist philosophy and temple life. He then guides you through Nishi Honganji itself — the reception rooms, performance stages, and other walled-off parts of the massive complex — explaining the history and spirituality of the temple as he goes, with translation and commentary by Toshi. Afterward, Toshi walks you to Shosei-en, a strolling garden that belongs to the neighboring Higashi Honganji. Laid out in the 17th century as a retreat for the temple's head priests, it's a place to walk at your own pace, around ponds and along paths, with Toshi's narration, through the Zen-inspired grounds.

Except for special annual events, the inner precincts of are inaccessible to the general public. Through Toshi's relationships with the temple, a resident monk opens these rarely seen National Treasures for you. Each is a masterclass in the fusion of art, architecture, and spirituality that reached its height in Japan's peaceful Edo period. Within the stillness of the Shoin, the temple's original reception hall, you'll be served matcha and a Japanese wagashi sweet, just as the temple's honored visitors were for centuries. The monk will provide history and context for these seldom-seen places as only a resident of the temple can, and you are welcome to ask questions relating to the temple's Jodo Shinshu Pure Land Buddhism, with Toshi providing English translation. Shosei-en Garden makes a fitting conclusion, a beautiful strolling garden of ponds, bridges, and paths, where you can reflect on the day as you walk with Toshi.

Toshi is a Kyoto-based guide who arranges private access to Japan's living cultural traditions. Drawn to Japanese history from a young age, he studied in Kyoto — but it was meeting travelers from abroad that changed how he saw it. Their perspective let him see his own culture from the outside, and rediscover how rich it was. So he set about learning it properly — staying overnight at temples to practice zazen, visiting artisans' workshops almost daily. Over years of this, he has come to know Kyoto's craftspeople, priests, and performers personally — which is why he can open doors a visitor could not reach alone. He coordinates each experience in English, so the conversation between you and your hosts runs freely.

Modest, respectful attire is appreciated at this active place of worship. A camera or smartphone is welcome — photography is permitted in the main grounds and certain buildings, but not inside the Shoin (the historic reception rooms).