Buenos Aires | Cycling through Buenos Aires | Buenos Aires is one of the southernmost capitals in the world and also an exciting city. Although there 

point - Fernwayer Travel Stories & Experiences

Argentina

Buenos Aires is one of the southernmost capitals in the world and also an exciting city. Although there are many ways to explore Argentine city life, biking is the most fun.

Biking is free in Buenos Aires, at least for a few hours. Using an app I downloaded to my phone, I spent the next few days biking around the Botanical Gardens, the best museums, art galleries, El Caminito, the riverfront, and the city's largest flea market (on weekends only!). While you’re at it, you can also visit one of the most beautiful cemeteries in the world in Recoleta.

The bike paths are well developed, and if you follow the signs, you'll find the main points quickly. Be careful, helmets are not available. If you want to be on the safe side, rent one in one of the bike rentals.

Cycling through Buenos Aires

Colombia

Bhutan

I am completely fascinated by Buddhist prayer wheels. Our guide tells us that we should walk clockwise, turning the wheel and chanting, “Om Mani Padme Hum”. “Will that give me extra strength to climb up to the Tiger’s Nest monastery tomorrow?”, I ask him. “Absolutely”, he says earnestly. Well, at least one of us has faith, I think to myself.

Paro Taktsang - or Tiger’s Nest monastery - hangs off a cliff at a dizzying 10,240 feet over the Paro Valley. It’s a 5 hour climb, punctuated with lunch. Not too tough, as it turns out. I must be fitter than I think. But the guide reminds me - “See, I told you so”. 

The hike (including getting to the trailhead) takes about 6-7 hours, depending on how much time you spend at the monastery. 4 miles round trip on a wide dirt trail. At the halfway point is a cafeteria - and for most people, getting to this point is the toughest part of the hike. Beyond this, both the scenery and the difficulty of the climb are in your favor.

Hope, Faith and Happiness

United States

Faroe Islands

I’m seduced by the untouched beauty and drama of the Faroe Islands. Driving into Tórshavn, I witness a rare Faroese sight.

The ocean is bright red. The beach is packed with onlookers. It’s a grindadráp, a pilot whale hunt. Heavily regulated, it’s being carried out with process perfected over millennia. A local couple points out their son to me, he is on one of the boats — “unless we send a boat, we won’t get our share of the whale meat.”

When a school of pilot whales is sighted, boats gather around and slowly drive them towards the chosen bay or beach, for it’s illegal to kill the whales in the open sea. This time, there are about two hundred of them. Every bit of them will be consumed or used — and none can be sold.

I’m shocked, outraged, fascinated, caught up in the excitement and terribly conflicted. As a traveler, I respect — and seek to understand — culture and tradition. And the Faroese are holding on to this one — as it symbolizes for them their relationship with the sea.

Culture Shock

Getting there on a little ferry tossed around on the surging Atlantic Ocean needs courage. As the boat uses all her resources to maneuver into a tight, rocky harbor, I wonder if the captain, who does this twice a day, is either extremely brave or completely suicidal. We step on to what looks like the sets of a Disney fantasy movie. Twenty colorful grass-roofed homes, one little schoolhouse - which has one child - and a bridge over the Atlantic.

I meet my guide Harald - a septuagenarian with poise to rival the curious sheep we see hanging precariously over the cliffs. Harald leads our little group on a 4-hour hike across the island to the lighthouse at the westernmost point of the Faroes.

Birds are everywhere - puffins, fulmars, kittiwakes, gannets - on the green hills, riding the ocean waves, occupying every inch of cliff space, filling the air with their calls, and circling the sky.

Beakful of fish

Greece

Pyrgos is a trendy hilltop medieval village. It’s full of little winding, narrow streets constructed haphazardly on the hills alongside multi-colored houses and doors. We lose our way several times and keep looping back to the same point .. using that as an excuse to check out yet another local art gallery constructed unobtrusively into the hillside. 

During the 15th and 16th century, the locals defended themselves from pirates by erecting kastelias .. fortified buildings. Pyrgos has the best example of these medieval buildings on the island. It also has the oldest churches.

We stop at a home with a large blue door .. and the views are stunning but give an impression that Santorini is flat and covered by vineyards instead of being a caldera. 

The one fascinating feature of homes here is a long, deep chimney for ventilation. And the strong winds make howling noises through the chimneys.

In Pyrgos, we visited vineyards ... but that’s a different story.

Old Blue Doors

Myanmar (Burma)

On a foggy morning as the sun rose over Lake Inle, my boatman took me to the rendezvous point deep inside Inle Lake. Three fishermen sat in their boats with little fires to warm them up. They had promised me the previous evening to do a demonstration of their fishing technique. 

The quintessential pose of the Inle fisherman involves standing at the end of the boat on one leg with the other wrapped around his oar. Inle is a shallow lake and standing wouldn’t let they see the reeds below, they explain. Plus they use their body to propel the boat, leaving their hands free to collect their fishing net. 

Then they throw the cone-shape nets into the water, pressing on it with their foot so it sinks to the bottom where the fish are and traps them in.

One-leg Fishing

Philippines

Norway

What does teetering on the edge of the ocean feel like? 
🌊
The Atlantic Road is an 8-kilometre roller-coaster stretch of road between Kristiansund and Molde. 
🌉
It skips nimbly from island to island, across seven curvy bridges. The tallest of them, Storseisundet, has a dramatic rise/fall and an impossibly artistic curve. At the highest point, I can actually see the other bridges connecting the tiny islands ahead. 
🎣 
In contrast, the bridge nearby - from where I take this photo - is flat, specially constructed for anglers - and the woman standing next to me comes here every day to catch her meal fresh. She demonstrates how she is only finding small pollock this evening - and calmly proceeds to slash the just-caught fish’s throat before dropping it into her nearly-full bucket. Too much Information, I tell her. She laughs. 
❤️ 
On the hillock opposite the bridge, I count seven pairs of people holding hands and looking out to the water. 
🎢
It is that kind of view.

Roller Coaster

All my life, I called it |trom-sow|, but the locals insist on |troom-sa|. 

The drive through Andøya and Senja was so spectacular that we wanted to abandon our itinerary and stay on the islands overnight vs. driving into Tromsø. And then I would have missed a dramatic sunset/dawn. Everything - sky, sea, windows on buildings, Arctic Church, mountain tops - blazed fiery red for an hour before turning into several shades of blue, with bright pink thrown in for effect. It stayed like that all night long. 

The locals can’t seem to stop partying through Friday night all along Storgata, so the people-watching is riveting. We’ve got to sleep at some point, we kept telling each other.

Midnattsol

Spain

If you want to explore Spain on foot, you should definitely set out on one of the pilgrimage routes through the country. All routes lead to the Cathedral of Santiago de Compostela in Galicia, which is located in the northwest. As a UNESCO World Heritage Site, the Camino de Santiago has been named a central point of cultural exchange – and a historical highlight that shows what medieval Spain looked like. We chose to follow the famous Camino Frances. The original 800km route takes 5 weeks, but we decided to get in a little later, we only had 11 days, and opted for the route starting in the Galician town of Sarria. Along the way, you'll meet many other tourist pilgrims, but you'll also be able to immerse yourself in the local culture and taste Spain's best delicacies (tapas, seafood, and Spanish Serrano ham). Be prepared for a lot of walking – and take the best walking boots you have. We’ve enjoyed every minute, but some people we met had the wrong equipment, complaining about blisters.

The “French” pilgrimage route

Svalbard & Jan Mayen

On a rainy day, at 78°N, M/S Polar Girl sets out from Longyearbyen to Pyramiden. Even in dreary weather, there is joy in watching the puffins swimming alongside the boat.

Then we step on to the most surreal of ghost towns, Pyramiden, a Russian mining settlement with the northern-most statue of Lenin. 

The decision to abandon in the 90s was sudden. People were given just hours to leave. Signs of a hasty departure are everywhere. Dried up plants. Rusted playground swings. Utensils and stoves left in disarray. Hand-drawn artwork taped on the walls. 

The guide points out the men’s and women’s dorm buildings, euphemistically called London and Paris. Everything is trapped in a 1970s time-warp. A blast from the Soviet past. 

Trust Arktikugol (Arctic Coal), a Russian state owned coal mining company, continues to run this, now as a tourist destination. Perfect for filming a James Bond movie.

Back on the boat, we have views of the glacier and freshly barbequed burgers to cheer us up.

Mining the Past

Staying at the Inn at Death Valley, we thought we would be able to get up just before sunrise and make a dash over to Zabriskie Point. In hind sight, we should have woken up a good 60 minutes earlier, since the viewpoint was packed with people as we got there. 


The stunning views of the badlands slowly fill up with yellow, orange, purple and brown colors - and every hue in between - as the sun comes up, totally makes up for the early rise. Once the sun has finished painting the badlands, it reaches out to color in the Panamint Range across the valley with gorgeous pinks and purples. If you want to avoid the crowds, do the 2.5 mile Badlands Loop hike. Right after the walk, you can drive the short 3 mile Twenty Mule Team Canyon loop drive before returning to Stovepipe Wells for breakfast. 

We had been told that the Death Valley National Park is all about extremes - and the Zabriskie Point is a visual representation of that.

Painting with Light

Hawaii’s Big Island has a lot to offer, including the view from the Southern most point in all of the United States. Unfortunately, there is no real marker for the location. The waters are gorgeous and there is a place to jump in from a height.

Argentina

Buenos Aires

Cycling through Buenos Aires

Bhutan

Paro

Hope, Faith and Happiness

Faroe Islands

Vága Municipality

Culture Shock

Mykines

Beakful of fish

Greece

Decentralized Administration of the Aegean

Old Blue Doors

Myanmar (Burma)

Shan

One-leg Fishing

Norway

Møre og Romsdal

Roller Coaster

Troms og Finnmark fylke

Midnattsol

Spain

Navarre

The “French” pilgrimage route

Svalbard & Jan Mayen

Svalbard

Mining the Past

United States

California

Painting with Light

Hawaii

Southern most point of the USA