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The Tanneries of Fes

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Fes | Morocco

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Vinitaa Jayson
In the heart of Fes, the Chouara and Sidi Moussa tanneries stand as enduring relics of the Middle Ages, their practices largely unchanged since that era. Here, the ancient art of leather tanning transforms raw hides into beautifully supple fabrics through a strikingly colorful yet arduous process. As you navigate the narrow alleys leading to the tanneries, the air grows thick with a pungent aroma, a hallmark of this traditional craft. Things to look for:
1. The Chouara Tannery, perhaps the most famous in Fes, alongside Sidi Moussa, offers a rare glimpse into the labor-intensive process of leather production. Hundreds of workers from multiple generations of families toil from sunrise to sunset. They labor over open vats filled with a vivid mosaic of natural dyes and pigeon dung, an essential component in softening the leather. This spectacle of color and effort unfolds beneath the Moroccan sun, casting a palette that feels almost surreal against the earthy tones of the Medina.
2. Visitors are handed a sprig of mint to ward off the overwhelming smells. The sensory overload is part of the experience!
3. Guides explain the dyeing process, pointing out the use of natural ingredients like saffron, poppy flower, indigo, and henna.
4. After dyeing, the leathers are laid out to dry on the nearby rooftops, creating an iconic and photogenic scene that defines the visual landscape of the tanneries.
5. A visit to the tanneries is an education in the tenacity and skill of the Moroccan artisans who maintain these centuries-old techniques. Despite modern advancements, these methods have resisted change, preserved by the artisans’ dedication to their heritage.
As you leave, the sight of the vibrant leathers, the sound of workers chanting in rhythm, and the smell of natural tannins linger, leaving a lasting impression of a craft preserved in time. Wear sturdy, closed-toe shoes as the area can be wet and slippery.
September 2016