Meeting the Makers of Istria’s Culinary Heritage

I hadn’t planned, yet here I was, hunting for truffles in the Croatian countryside. My B&B in Istria was run by a truffle-hunting family. In their garden was a pack of dogs specially trained to sniff out these precious fungi that hide underground.

One of the best ways to connect with a community is through its food. Over long, late, and languid dinners on their terrace, the family shared with me their stories of Istria, its complex history, unique fusion of cultures, and culinary delights, both above and beneath the soil.

The traditional Istrian dishes I tried combined luxurious Mediterranean produce with rustic, hearty recipes, over which truffles were grated like a block of cheese to enrich the food. Many of these dishes also reflect Istria’s close connection to Italy — not only in terms of geography, but also in the shared history that has shaped the region’s culture, architecture and, of course, gastronomy. But that’s only part of the story.

An Italian connection

Istria’s relationship with Italy reaches as far back as the Roman Empire, which nicknamed the peninsula Terra Magica and whose influence I experienced while enjoying a pizza in the shadow of Pula’s amphitheater. Settlers from the Republic of Venice later colonized Istria, creating grid-like patterns in Istrian cities.

Pula’s colossal Arena is one of the many remnants left behind by the Roman Empire on the Istrian peninsula.

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More recently, the end of World War I saw occupation by Mussolini’s Italy. With annexation came Italianization, which changed education, administration, place names, and even the names of local people. As a traditional Istrian folk song says: “Even the rocks spoke Italian.” Istrian towns such as Grožnjan and Buje still house a majority Italian population, and place names are often referred to by their Italian counterparts.

This Italianization has greatly influenced Istria’s cuisine. Towns groan with pizzerias, and pasta is on almost every menu. Yet Istrians are proud of their native dishes and their trifecta of local produce: truffles, olive oil, and wine. 

In search of black gold

Among some of the world’s most expensive produce, truffles are native to only a handful of regions. In the forests of central Istria, black truffles grow year-round, while the prized white truffle matures in autumn. 

This premium product requires highly skilled and knowledgeable producers like Ivana Karlić’s family. Karlić Tartufi is a small family business in central Istria with a sixty-year-old truffle hunting tradition. All of Ivana’s family are involved in the business, and everyone knows everything there is to know about truffles. 

Istria’s geography is ideally suited for truffles, yet only experienced truffle-hunters are able to find the valuable tuber.

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Ivana, her family, and her local community strive to protect the soil, the forest, and the natural environment to ensure the truffles, that are mostly eaten raw, grow in perfect conditions.

“It’s important that the soil is clean, that you and your neighbor aren’t using pesticides, and that factories and large hotels aren’t in the truffle zone,” says Ivana.

This focus on sustainability is deeply rooted in Istrian culture. Ivana explains how Istrian children are raised to appreciate the importance of the natural world. “Istrian children understand that nature not only gives us truffles, but many fruits, wine, olive oil, and vegetables. Nature makes us healthy, helps us breathe clean air, and eat fresh food. This respect towards the environment means Istria is one of the best places in the world to grow truffles,” says Ivana.

“When it comes to Istrian food, it’s all about simplicity. All that matters with Istrian cooking are fresh and seasonal ingredients. You can’t go wrong, because nature gives you the perfect dish. In Istria, you don’t have to be a great chef. You just need a good connection with local people and nature,” adds Ivana.

World class olive oil

The same perfect soil conditions that produce truffles also make Istria one of the best olive oil regions in the world, according to Flos Olei, the Michelin guide of extra virgin olive oils.

One olive oil producer who has featured multiple times in the Flos Olei guidebook is Brist, based in Vodnjan. Brist is truly a family business, run by archaeologist and art historian Lena Puhar, her architect husband Paul, and her engineer father Silvano. Lena’s family consider themselves ambassadors of the land, and are committed to sustainable practices.

“We nurture our trees with the utmost respect and humility. We feel honored to have the privilege to be here for them, to farm in harmony with nature, knowing all these trees will outlive us and experience many more storms and summers after we are gone. Understanding this makes you humble,” explains Lena.

While some processes are mechanized, Lena and her family still prune and harvest by hand. The soil is enriched exclusively by organic fertilizer, namely aged cow manure from their neighbor’s cows. When planting new trees, the family dig big holes and fill them with cow manure to give the trees an initial input to develop deep roots, thus always reaching reserves of underground rainwater, negating the need for a watering system in the grove. 

Istria produces some of the country’s most highly prized olive oil, thanks to the rich soils that provide nourishment to its precious olives.

Stephan Langhans

“We are always exploring new ways of caring and managing our grove with respect to its natural processes,” adds Lena. After purchasing a bottle of Brist’s olive oil, Lena recommends pairing it with a bowl of maneštra. “Maneštra is never fancy, but with a good drizzle of extra virgin olive oil, it becomes a meal for the gods, an experience that is totally and completely Istrian at its heart.” 

Local pairings

Completing Istria’s trio of luxurious yet local produce is wine. As one of the oldest wine regions in Europe, dating back to the 6th century B.C., Istria’s dominant grape varieties are the white Malvazija and the red Teran, both shaped by the peninsula’s fertile soil.

From white Malvazija and the red Teran, you have plenty of choice when it comes to matching Istrian dishes to wine.

Ekaterina Polischuk

Gianna Kozlović’s family runs the award-winning Kozlović Winery, which exclusively uses regional grape varieties. “We feel proud to live in Istria, and we want our wines to reflect the territory as well. We do this by working to have the best quality and healthy grapes, as well as trying to reduce the impact of the container on wine,” explains Gianna.

“For the people that live here, they feel really proud to have world-class wine produced in their neighborhoods. If you want to understand someone better, you need to drink their wine,” adds Gianna.

Gianna suggests some local, seasonal pairings with her wine: asparagus in the spring and black truffles in the summer. In the autumn, she recommends a broad selection of mushrooms and white truffles. “A very typical Sunday lunch for us is soup — chicken is the best — fetine (veal steaks in a really tasty but light sauce, the base is onion, garlic and maybe some vegetables), and sauerkraut with sausages,” says Gianna.

Vines surround the village of Motovun, a medieval hamlet located in the heart of the peninsula.

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Beyond truffle, olive oil and wine

In Istria, traditional, family-run taverns called konoba are the best places to sample local dishes. Simplicity defines these rustic eateries, from their stone walls and wooden benches to their straightforward menus featuring hearty, traditional meals. 

A bowl of Istrian maneštra: a simple yet hearty soup of beans and seasonal vegetables, embodying the region’s tradition of slow, communal living.

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One such dish is maneštra, a warming soup of beans and seasonal vegetables that was historically served during marenda — a break from work to gather and enjoy a communal meal. Maneštra, which encapsulates the Istrian ethos of slow living, is deceptively simple yet enriched by the bone of one of the Mediterranean’s most indulgent ingredients: prosciutto, known locally as pršut.

Pršut, as highly prized as Istrian truffles, enjoys protected status today and was traditionally used as payment or reserved for special occasions. Unsmoked and processed without skin or fat, pršut is lean, delicate, and sweet—best served thinly sliced alongside local bread and cheeses.

Another iconic Istrian meat is boškarin, an indigenous breed of cattle saved from extinction by a local federation. Boškarin has become a delicacy featured everywhere from konobas to fine-dining restaurants, served as salami, carpaccio, steak, or in a rich goulash poured over home-made fuži, a spindle-shaped Istrian pasta. For those who prefer warming, slow-cooked meals, žgvacet — a rich chicken stew served with fuži or gnocchi — is a must-try. Alternatively, the coastal influence of Istria shines in brudet, a seafood stew of mixed local fish cooked in a tomato broth with spices and wine, offering a perfect option for those seeking a taste of the Adriatic.

Redefining agricultural heritage

From humble konobas to luxury restaurants, chefs across Istria use the region’s high-quality produce to create dishes that best showcase the region’s culinary prowess.

One of these restaurants is the fine-dining Meneghetti that offers a modern interpretation of traditional Istrian cuisine, where dishes are made from fresh, authentic, and local ingredients. Spearheaded by Executive Chef Damir Pejčinović, Meneghetti ensures its menu remains deeply rooted in Istrian history, traditions, and the land by prioritizing locally sourced products and incorporating traditional cooking techniques. 

“Our commitment to following the seasons and using the freshest ingredients available allows us to honor the region's agricultural heritage. We also draw inspiration from historical Istrian recipes, adapting them to modern tastes while preserving their authentic flavors and cultural significance,” says Restaurant Supervisor Matej Grbac.

The restaurant prioritizes locally sourced ingredients to reduce its carbon footprint and supports local farmers. “By following the seasons, we minimize the environmental impact associated with transporting out-of-season produce. Additionally, we practice waste reduction by utilizing every part of the ingredients we use, from root to leaf. Our commitment to sustainability also extends to using eco-friendly kitchen practices and promoting sustainable seafood and meat sources,” adds Matej. 

For Matej, a unique blend of cultural influences, stunning landscapes, and commitment to preserving traditional food practices makes Istria a remarkable culinary travel destination. Matej explains that “the region offers a rich tapestry of flavors, combining Mediterranean, Central European, and Italian culinary traditions, coupled with the passion of Istrian chefs and producers for their craft.”

The sun sets over Porec, with the Euphrasian Basilica rising from the peninsula.

Rudy Balasko

Matej encourages visitors to the region to support these Istrian chefs and producers, who he believes is crucial for preserving the region's culinary heritage and promoting sustainable food practices.

“Choosing to dine at local establishments and purchase locally produced goods helps sustain the livelihoods of farmers, fishermen, and artisans who are the backbone of Istria's food culture. This support also encourages the continuation of traditional food practices and contributes to the region's economic stability, ensuring that future generations can enjoy the unique flavors and traditions of Istria.”