Vatnajokull | Ice Caving | This being a ‘chill trip’, we did not want to hike 10 hours on a glacier. Instead we trek on the Vatnajokull glacier lookin

icelandic - Fernwayer Travel Stories & Experiences

Iceland

This being a ‘chill trip’, we did not want to hike 10 hours on a glacier. Instead we trek on the Vatnajokull glacier looking for ice caves with wind on our face and ice under our feet.

Earlier, we woke up at 7 and drive in cold and windy January to Skaftafell National Park to meet Einar, our guide. 

This cave... like others ... started forming In August but you are never sure it will be stable to explore till later. In September, the loose ceiling collapsed  and this brilliant cave was formed.

These fragile and transitory structure require constant maintenance from falling rock and melting icicles. Einer enters the cave and spots a few boulders on the roof. He removes them to prevent harm to the cave and us. 

As we move around, the cave looks different as our viewing angle and the sunlight outside changes.

We are in complete awe ... and hungry. Luckily a steaming meal of lamb and potatoes is close by.

Ice Caving

United States

On the epic Ring Road drive (A1) in East Iceland, there’s a black sand beach called Stokksnes, just a few kilometres from Höfn. 

A gravel road gets you to a tiny cafeteria - where you can pay a small fee to drive further in till the edge of the water. 

Volcanic black sand dunes, Tall green grasses. Waves breaking on the rocks. Wind. Reflections in the water. Incredible beauty. Pure zen.

Pure Zen

United Kingdom

On a snowy winter evening, we stand on a ridge and see the brightly-lit church through the mist ... an evocative but calming place. 

Very different from 1000 years ago as Vikings stood here and declared the laws of the land ... the oldest continuous two weeks in the summer parliament. People heard from their leaders, settled disputes and traded.

The best part of the Golden Circle circuit, Thingvellir National Park has hiking trails, waterfalls, summer cottages for the affluent (singer Björk has a home) and the Silfra fissure divers can explore between the American and Euroasian tectonic plates.

The sky is changing color. We should leave, we tell each other ... but we are drawn to the scenery like a moth to the flame.

Northern Mists

Continuing my recommendations for a stunning drive to the South of Iceland -

1. From Dyrhólaey to Vik: Stop at Dyrhólaey for its sea arch and basalt blocks - turn from the Ring Road to the right to road 218, and drive that road to an end, you should see puffins at Reynisfjall cliffs, at Arnardrangur "Eagle rock” (very picturesque with Reynisdrangar and Reynisfjara in the background), at low tide, you can walk along the black beach and discover little caves and rock formations, and finally, the little village of Vik with its stunning black sand beach and sea stacks, worth visiting both at sunset and sunrise.

2.  From Vik to Stokksnes Headland. You will want to stop for pictures of the moss-filled lava flows on the sides of the highway. Go to Skaftafell Glacier National Park for a glacier walk. Then pause at Fjallsárlón glacial lagoon, a nice precursor to Jökulsárlón. I’ve always found sitting on the lagoon and watching the icebergs (barely) floating by absolutely therapeutic.

Icelandic Road Trip - Part 2

I love Iceland for many reasons. The road trips are magical - and so is the light - perfect for photography. These are my recommendations for a drive from Reykjavik to the South of Iceland. 

1. Þingvellir National Park: Go to the Visitor’s Center for a great view, and get a driving map, or suggestions from there. Find Almannagjá – the space between the North American and Eurasian continental plates. I love the little church. Lots of easy walking paths.

2. From Þingvellir to Dyrhólaey: Stop at Seljalandsfoss (easy stairs to climb behind the waterfall), Skógafoss (set your tripod in the water to take an iconic waterfall photo, then climb up to the start of the lava from the Eyjafjallajökull eruption), Sólheimasandur (for haunting pictures of the airplane that crashed on the black sand beach, there’s no sign but the coordinates are 63 27.546-19 21.887).

Part 2 coming soon.

Iceland

Eastern Region

Ice Caving

Pure Zen

Southern Region

Northern Mists

Icelandic Road Trip - Part 2

Icelandic Road Trip - Part 1