Sandavágur | Culture Shock | I’m seduced by the untouched beauty and drama of the Faroe Islands. Driving into Tórshavn, I witness a rare Faroese sight

drama - Fernwayer Travel Stories & Experiences

Faroe Islands

I’m seduced by the untouched beauty and drama of the Faroe Islands. Driving into Tórshavn, I witness a rare Faroese sight.

The ocean is bright red. The beach is packed with onlookers. It’s a grindadráp, a pilot whale hunt. Heavily regulated, it’s being carried out with process perfected over millennia. A local couple points out their son to me, he is on one of the boats — “unless we send a boat, we won’t get our share of the whale meat.”

When a school of pilot whales is sighted, boats gather around and slowly drive them towards the chosen bay or beach, for it’s illegal to kill the whales in the open sea. This time, there are about two hundred of them. Every bit of them will be consumed or used — and none can be sold.

I’m shocked, outraged, fascinated, caught up in the excitement and terribly conflicted. As a traveler, I respect — and seek to understand — culture and tradition. And the Faroese are holding on to this one — as it symbolizes for them their relationship with the sea.

Culture Shock

United States

Morocco

This is the view of The Red City, Marrakech’s medina from the panoramic terrace of Maison de la Photographie.

The museum of photographs is fascinating in how it came about – two famous photographers, Patrick Menac’h and Hamid Mergani, brought together their common passion for vintage Moroccan photography, and pooled their photos for the public to admire. Here I realize how black-and-white photos can dramatize the light-and-shadow effects in the medina.

From the terrace, you can have a glass of mint tea, and wonder about the thousands of satellite dishes that dominate the view. 

It’s peaceful here. On a clear day, you can see the snow-clad High Atlas Mountains. But you can’t see the chaos of Djemaa el-Fna, or hear shouts of ‘Balek!’ whenever donkey-carts come through laden with heavy goods. You can’t see the ‘hand of Fatima’ good-luck symbols painted on the carts after they have ambled past you. Or count the number of chickens being transported on the back of a groaning Vespa.

Pausing in the Frenzy

Norway

What does teetering on the edge of the ocean feel like? 
🌊
The Atlantic Road is an 8-kilometre roller-coaster stretch of road between Kristiansund and Molde. 
🌉
It skips nimbly from island to island, across seven curvy bridges. The tallest of them, Storseisundet, has a dramatic rise/fall and an impossibly artistic curve. At the highest point, I can actually see the other bridges connecting the tiny islands ahead. 
🎣 
In contrast, the bridge nearby - from where I take this photo - is flat, specially constructed for anglers - and the woman standing next to me comes here every day to catch her meal fresh. She demonstrates how she is only finding small pollock this evening - and calmly proceeds to slash the just-caught fish’s throat before dropping it into her nearly-full bucket. Too much Information, I tell her. She laughs. 
❤️ 
On the hillock opposite the bridge, I count seven pairs of people holding hands and looking out to the water. 
🎢
It is that kind of view.

Roller Coaster

All my life, I called it |trom-sow|, but the locals insist on |troom-sa|. 

The drive through Andøya and Senja was so spectacular that we wanted to abandon our itinerary and stay on the islands overnight vs. driving into Tromsø. And then I would have missed a dramatic sunset/dawn. Everything - sky, sea, windows on buildings, Arctic Church, mountain tops - blazed fiery red for an hour before turning into several shades of blue, with bright pink thrown in for effect. It stayed like that all night long. 

The locals can’t seem to stop partying through Friday night all along Storgata, so the people-watching is riveting. We’ve got to sleep at some point, we kept telling each other.

Midnattsol

United Kingdom

Our plan: To walk through the magnificent Quiraing and climb to the base of the Needle, a 120 ft jagged pinnacle, for views of the Outer Hebrides.  

Weather forecast? Fair, says Harry, the winds will blow away the clouds and midges.

Highlights from the photo-hike: ☀️Awe-inspiring view of Loch Cleat (above). 💦 Scrambling over the steep cliffs on springy heather. 🐾 Checking out the structures that have been named — The Needle, The Prison, The Table — and naming those that haven’t. ⚡️Noting the exact moment when the weather turns on us. ❄️ Getting shrouded in mist and fog, and unwittingly playing hide-and-seek at the top of the ridge (this is, after all, where locals hid their sheep from raiding Vikings). 💨 Howling winds over 50 mph trying to gust us off the slopes. 💧Rain coming down in full force. ☁️ Feeling my spine tingle as clouds swirl around me in this unreal landscape.

Faroe Islands

Vága Municipality

Culture Shock

Morocco

Marrakesh-Safi

Pausing in the Frenzy

Norway

Møre og Romsdal

Roller Coaster

Troms og Finnmark fylke

Midnattsol

United Kingdom

Scotland

Cinematic Drama