Phaspani | Sky Above, Sky Below | Driving in the wet season in Salar de Uyuni, it feels like you are in a sailboat on the ocean - splashing in the wat

day - Fernwayer Travel Stories & Experiences

Bolivia

Driving in the wet season in Salar de Uyuni, it feels like you are in a sailboat on the ocean - splashing in the water and watching mesmerizing reflections of the sky. It’s incredibly surreal.

The newly discovered planet Crait in The Last Jedi was set in this breathtaking and luminous salt-covered land. We stay in a gleaming Airstream parked on the salt lake, and are greeted by a salt version of R2D2 that apparently starred in the movie.

On a still day at the start of the rainy season, a thin layer of water covers the salt, forming a great mirror reflecting the sky. It’s disorienting, because you can’t judge distance or perspective. 

The Salar is so flat across its 10,000 square kilometres, that the surface is used to calibrate the altimeters on board earth’s satellites. At dusk, we watch the International Space Station slowly cruising past in the sky above us, like a bright star, and we watch lightning in the horizon all around us.

Sky Above, Sky Below

United States

Cambodia

How Not to be Templed Out.

Pick out the must-see’s in the mini-circuit (Bayon, Angkor Wat and Ta Prohm in that order), then pick two temples in the grand-circuit (Preah Khan and Pre-Rup are my favorites), and one that requires a car (Banteay Srei or Beng Melea). 

Add some climbing at dawn - at Phnom Krom and Phnom Bakheng - as the sunrises here will sustain you for a whole year of waking up late. 

Pace yourself over three to four days.

Temples and Temples

Canada

This place is located 100 km far from my home  and its in fundy national park New Brunswick canada  and its really amazing place the water falls looks soo good when you look with your nacked eyes  its a fresh water fall and the water also taste good we did hiking as well as had some snacks with my homies its a great location to come out for a good day and a good hike and have spend you day in nature i am a huge nature lover and i love to be in nature when i am on my off days i am so much indulge in nature activities like camping fishing bonfire start gazing from mountains bagpacking etc etc 
And many more to plan a head for things like this and many more to be posted you guys can also follow me up on my instagram akash_sood96 or my snap chat akashsood69 i can always help you and guide you about the adventures so hit me up and let me know whats your next plan on adventures haha waiting waiting for my new friends to hit me up and also i would love to travel around the world with you guys

A day out for hiking at fundy

Chile

San Pedro de Atacama is an oasis within the driest desert in the world at the very north of Chile. At more than 8000 feet above sea level, it sits in the center of a ring of volcanoes, the most famous of them being Licancabur. A couple of them still spew smoke. 
🌋 | 🌋 | 🌋 
Volcano climbing, consequently, is a very popular activity here ('why climb the volcanoes?’ - I ask. ‘Because you can!’- says the guide) and we are quickly put on a 4-day program to acclimatize ourselves to the altitude - with progressively higher altitude hikes to prepare us for the final climb. My favorite part of the hikes is the opportunity to capture the colors of the altiplano! That and the thrill of walking through the Mars like topography of the Atacama desert. 
🧗‍♀️ 
Climb Licancabur if you are an experienced climber, Toco or Corona for one day climbs. And you will have bragging rights forever for having climbed a volcano!

Volcano Climbing

What does the southern end of the world look like? After five and a half l-o-n-g hours from Punta Arenas, out of the blue appears Hotel Explora Salto Chico - and it’s breathtaking. With a stunning, modern countenance, views-to-die-for of Torres del Paine (the Towers) and Cuernos del Paine (the Horns), and the sound of the Salto Chico waterfall as we linger over amazing food and excellent Chilean wine. 
🦙
The Explora guides ensure they get us out of bed. My favorite experience - a day-long hike to Grey glacier. And when we get really close, our guides hop into a little boat to fetch thousand-year-old ice from the glacier for little drinks of Pisco Sour! 

Patagonia’s Parc Nacional Torres del Paine has picture postcard views everywhere. If you are a keen hiker, try the Circuit or the W. I stick to day hikes as a rule - if you are like me, try Grey Glacier, French Valley Glacier or Base of the Paine Towers.

Going to Extremes

Faroe Islands

Getting there on a little ferry tossed around on the surging Atlantic Ocean needs courage. As the boat uses all her resources to maneuver into a tight, rocky harbor, I wonder if the captain, who does this twice a day, is either extremely brave or completely suicidal. We step on to what looks like the sets of a Disney fantasy movie. Twenty colorful grass-roofed homes, one little schoolhouse - which has one child - and a bridge over the Atlantic.

I meet my guide Harald - a septuagenarian with poise to rival the curious sheep we see hanging precariously over the cliffs. Harald leads our little group on a 4-hour hike across the island to the lighthouse at the westernmost point of the Faroes.

Birds are everywhere - puffins, fulmars, kittiwakes, gannets - on the green hills, riding the ocean waves, occupying every inch of cliff space, filling the air with their calls, and circling the sky.

Beakful of fish

Finland

At Riisitunturi National Park, ancient trees enveloped in layers of sticky snow (called ‘tykky’ in Finnish) assume fantastical shapes of monsters, ghosts, birds and families of snow people. On days like this, when sunrise and sunset happen within a two-hour window, backgrounds are brushed in pinks and yellows, and foregrounds etched with tracks of reindeer, dogs and humans. 

Snow is something more than frozen water to the Sami people. It’s a way of expressing the basis of their existence.

Best time to visit? Late December to March. Getting there from Rovaniemi takes more than 2 hours each way, but the trails are easy - we did a 4 km.

Shape of snow

Greece

Each evening, we wait for sunset to happen ... in fact the whole town stops whatever they are doing and gathers near the edges of the cliffs In Oia. 

It’s a ritual that we quickly make our own. We time our dinner, walks and activities so that we can get a prime seat to watch the performance. On the odd day that we miss it ... being on the wrong side of the caldera ... we feel we’ve missed a significant event in our day.

🌅 | 🌆 | 🌄

Each evening, the sun obliges and puts in a grand performance. 

The setting sun can look rather different in a cloudless sky. Santorini rarely has a cloud. Maybe one every two days ... making the sunset even more glorious. Flaws build character.

Cloudless Sunset

India

My taxi driver, Chand, tries his best to persuade me to change the plan - “K.R. Market is a complete mess in the rainy season”, he argues, and for effect, twists his head around to the back seat to look at my tunic, shakes his head, and declares woefully — “You will be covered in mud and smelly water”. Sadly for him, I can’t resist a wholesale flower market. 

At sunrise every day, the southern end of Avenue Road lines up with a couple hundred flower vendors. Business between 5 to 8 a.m. is hectic and noisy.. Since it’s well past 10 a.m. now, I weave my way instead through stalls of vegetables, fruits and spices to find the building where these vendors disappear to after their morning sales. 

Chand is right about the mulch smells and slushy floors.  Climb up to the second floor to find a quiet spot to view the action from above. Or wander through the narrow passages, as I do, stepping around baskets full of flowers. 

For the record, my tunic remains mud-and-slush-free.

Bed of Roses

Kenya

[🦓]
Each year, over 2 million wildebeest, zebras and antelope migrate from the Serengeti in Tanzania to the Maasai Mara in Kenya in search of water and fresh grazing . Experiencing this during July-October is an absolute spectacle. 
[🦛]
The Mara Triangle is particularly great for watching river crossings in August and September - perilous for the animals as the river is packed with wily Nile crocodiles. 
[🐊]
We stay with this herd of zebras for 3 days - waiting for them to decide to cross. It’s a matter of life and death for them - so they are understandably cautious  The zebra get to the banks more than 20 times, giving up at the very last minute, often spooked by a territorial hippo or a sneaky crocodile. 
[⚠️]
Finally, a brave zebra leaps forward into the water. And a second one follows fast. Suddenly it’s mayhem with hundreds of zebras and wildebeest splashing into the river. 
[⛺️]
There are several great lodges in the Mara Triangle - we stayed at the Angama Mara.

Zebra Crossing

Morocco

This is the view of The Red City, Marrakech’s medina from the panoramic terrace of Maison de la Photographie.

The museum of photographs is fascinating in how it came about – two famous photographers, Patrick Menac’h and Hamid Mergani, brought together their common passion for vintage Moroccan photography, and pooled their photos for the public to admire. Here I realize how black-and-white photos can dramatize the light-and-shadow effects in the medina.

From the terrace, you can have a glass of mint tea, and wonder about the thousands of satellite dishes that dominate the view. 

It’s peaceful here. On a clear day, you can see the snow-clad High Atlas Mountains. But you can’t see the chaos of Djemaa el-Fna, or hear shouts of ‘Balek!’ whenever donkey-carts come through laden with heavy goods. You can’t see the ‘hand of Fatima’ good-luck symbols painted on the carts after they have ambled past you. Or count the number of chickens being transported on the back of a groaning Vespa.

Pausing in the Frenzy

This photo is the last of the travels in 2020, taken with a film camera. We flew home to Belarus, and the borders were closed behind us because of the pandemic. The photo captures the ocean and a warm African winter day.

Surfing in Agadir

Georgia

Namibia

It’s a new day in Sossusvlei. And I am rising towards the sky, timed perfectly with the rising sun, in a wicker basket attached to a hot air balloon. It’s my first balloon ride!

The sand dunes of the Namib desert are taking their time turning orange in the glow of dawn. Our pilot tells us that in Namibia, the only time one can fly a balloon is the sunrise hour. She can’t steer the balloon but she can control the altitude, and depending on the wind channels at each altitude, choose her preferred “course”. 

It’s more peaceful than I imagined. The sound of quiet is unnerving, but no one in the gondola wants to break the peace. In fact, the only sound to be heard is the feverish clicking of cameras. I could get used to seeing the world from this perspective.

Thanks to Namib Sky Balloon Safaris.

Safari from the sky

I am in Kaokoland. Final frontier of Namibia. Home to the beautiful Himba people.

The last nomadic, herding tribe in southern Africa, they still maintain their dress and traditions. Red ochre paste for sun protection. Smoke from herbs for cleansing and perfume. Intricate hairstyles. Lots of leather jewelry. A beauty routine that takes three hours every single day to complete.

This young woman graciously agrees to be my ‘model’ - and is as curious about me and my traditions as I am about hers.

Land of Himba

Norway

What does teetering on the edge of the ocean feel like? 
🌊
The Atlantic Road is an 8-kilometre roller-coaster stretch of road between Kristiansund and Molde. 
🌉
It skips nimbly from island to island, across seven curvy bridges. The tallest of them, Storseisundet, has a dramatic rise/fall and an impossibly artistic curve. At the highest point, I can actually see the other bridges connecting the tiny islands ahead. 
🎣 
In contrast, the bridge nearby - from where I take this photo - is flat, specially constructed for anglers - and the woman standing next to me comes here every day to catch her meal fresh. She demonstrates how she is only finding small pollock this evening - and calmly proceeds to slash the just-caught fish’s throat before dropping it into her nearly-full bucket. Too much Information, I tell her. She laughs. 
❤️ 
On the hillock opposite the bridge, I count seven pairs of people holding hands and looking out to the water. 
🎢
It is that kind of view.

Roller Coaster

Svalbard & Jan Mayen

On a rainy day, at 78°N, M/S Polar Girl sets out from Longyearbyen to Pyramiden. Even in dreary weather, there is joy in watching the puffins swimming alongside the boat.

Then we step on to the most surreal of ghost towns, Pyramiden, a Russian mining settlement with the northern-most statue of Lenin. 

The decision to abandon in the 90s was sudden. People were given just hours to leave. Signs of a hasty departure are everywhere. Dried up plants. Rusted playground swings. Utensils and stoves left in disarray. Hand-drawn artwork taped on the walls. 

The guide points out the men’s and women’s dorm buildings, euphemistically called London and Paris. Everything is trapped in a 1970s time-warp. A blast from the Soviet past. 

Trust Arktikugol (Arctic Coal), a Russian state owned coal mining company, continues to run this, now as a tourist destination. Perfect for filming a James Bond movie.

Back on the boat, we have views of the glacier and freshly barbequed burgers to cheer us up.

Mining the Past

We arrive by RIB boat from Longyearbyen, dressed in survival suits, across a choppy Arctic Sea, with puffins and seals for company.

Isfjord Radio on Cape Linné, is an abandoned strategic communications station, with a decidedly interesting past, now converted into a stylish expedition lodge. 

Nothing could have prepared me for the extreme sense of isolation and wilderness. 

Imagine sitting all alone at latitude 79 degrees north and watching polar bears prowling outside the kitchen window. Two days ago, that is exactly what the staff at Isfjord Radio did.  After all, Svalbard’s travel slogan reads: “3000 polar bears, 2500 humans”. 

Hiking into the middle of nowhere, or along the coast looking for 1500-kilo walruses, is done with licensed guides, a couple of mandatory rifles for protection and huskies for company. It is a beautiful, stark landscape, filled with mystery and a sense of the unknown. 

Which direction should we head? Anywhere you want to go, comes the reply.

Extreme Wilderness

Tanzania

On a cool morning drive in Ngorongoro Crater, we meet a pride of eleven hungry lions —  lean and menacing. We stay with them for five hours through several hunting attempts . 

🦁

One of the lionesses spots a herd of zebras. She masterfully rounds them up and sends them in the direction of her waiting pride. At the last minute though, the zebras, finding new energy or a brilliant leader, take a united front and flee. The zebras will live another day. 

Well, hello there! - say the lions to a group of wild buffaloes .. and quickly dissolve into the grass. The buffaloes can smell the lions. They start backing up and eventually escape. 

Next, the younger lions eye an ostrich In the distance. But it fluffs up its feathers with a disdainful air, and runs away.

- P  A  T  I  E  N  C  E  -

Mobile food is awfully hard to get your paws on. The lions decide to lie in the grass and wait it out. Someone will come by. It’s just a matter of time.

A Matter of Life

Ukraine

No matter what day it is today, visiting a new bar can be a good idea. Today, we’re going to Cocktail’ka. They say they have the best author cocktails in the city. Let’s go and check it 🕶

Cocktail’ka

Visit the icon Cloud Gate sculpture in Millennium Park. Eat great Chicago classics like Portillos hotdogs and Lou’s pizza. Enjoy views from the Willis tower or spend a day on Navy Pier!

Wander the city

Pillowcase or jack-o’-lantern bucket?

It’s Halloween time in Beacon Hill in Boston. After much consideration, I decide that I am too old to collect candy from my generous neighbors.

So I pick up my camera instead and wander through Boston’s most historic neighborhood to celebrate its annual Halloween tradition.
🎃 
Since the 1970s, this is one day when the charming tree-lined streets of Beacon Hill get packed ..
 
.. with costumed pets and people, infants dressed as pumpkins to the elderly dressed in traditional witching gear.

Watch out for the brooms. 

I run into a friend dressed up as Jamie Lannister from the Game of Thrones, complete with chopped arm hanging around his neck.

There’s a dog dressed up as a skunk.

A house on Pinckney Street is showing black-and-white Dracula movies.

Beacon Hill has the perfect Halloween atmosphere with the wrought iron, cobblestones, narrow alleys and seriously all-out decoration.
👻
So, trick or treat?

Antelope Canyon may be the most famous of Utah’s slot canyons,  but if you want to avoid the large crowds, go to Buckskin Gulch - harder to reach but possibly, more enjoyable.

Wire Pass, a gorge carved through the Cockscomb by Coyote Wash, is the most popular entry route into Buckskin Gulch. It takes 1.7 miles to get to the slot canyon from the trailhead. Wire Pass is short, less than half a mile, but its slot canyon is even more confined than Buckskin, and makes for spectacular photos.

Buckskin Gulch twists its way for another 13 surreal miles, but we turn back after a couple of miles to head back to the trailhead. We’ve stopped every few feet to capture various angles of the rock and light - and literally run out of time. You could certainly do a wonderful all-day hike here.

Through the Wire

After disastrously and foolishly underestimating how difficult the parking situation is, we only ended up with a 1/2 day to spend in thr park. This was not enough time.

Sky Above, Sky Below

Temples and Temples

A day out for hiking at fundy

Volcano Climbing

Going to Extremes

Beakful of fish

Shape of snow

Cloudless Sunset

Bed of Roses

Zebra Crossing

Pausing in the Frenzy

Surfing in Agadir

Safari from the sky

Land of Himba

Roller Coaster

Mining the Past

Extreme Wilderness

A Matter of Life

Cocktail’ka

Wander the city

Boo

Through the Wire

Trail Running Zion

Bolivia

Potosi Department

Sky Above, Sky Below

Cambodia

Siem Reap Province

Temples and Temples

Canada

New Brunswick

A day out for hiking at fundy

Chile

Antofagasta

Volcano Climbing

Magallanes and Chilean Antarctica

Going to Extremes

Faroe Islands

Mykines

Beakful of fish

Finland

Lapland

Shape of snow

Greece

Decentralized Administration of the Aegean

Cloudless Sunset

India

Karnataka

Bed of Roses

Kenya

Narok County

Zebra Crossing

Morocco

Marrakesh-Safi

Pausing in the Frenzy

Souss-Massa

Surfing in Agadir

Namibia

Hardap Region

Safari from the sky

Kunene Region

Land of Himba

Norway

Møre og Romsdal

Roller Coaster

Svalbard & Jan Mayen

Svalbard

Mining the Past

Extreme Wilderness

Tanzania

Arusha Region

A Matter of Life

Ukraine

Kharkiv Oblast

Cocktail’ka

United States

Illinois

Wander the city

Massachusetts

Boo

Utah

Through the Wire

Trail Running Zion