Paro | Hope, Faith and Happiness | I am completely fascinated by Buddhist prayer wheels. Our guide tells us that we should walk clockwise, turning the

climbing - Fernwayer Travel Stories & Experiences

Bhutan

I am completely fascinated by Buddhist prayer wheels. Our guide tells us that we should walk clockwise, turning the wheel and chanting, “Om Mani Padme Hum”. “Will that give me extra strength to climb up to the Tiger’s Nest monastery tomorrow?”, I ask him. “Absolutely”, he says earnestly. Well, at least one of us has faith, I think to myself.

Paro Taktsang - or Tiger’s Nest monastery - hangs off a cliff at a dizzying 10,240 feet over the Paro Valley. It’s a 5 hour climb, punctuated with lunch. Not too tough, as it turns out. I must be fitter than I think. But the guide reminds me - “See, I told you so”. 

The hike (including getting to the trailhead) takes about 6-7 hours, depending on how much time you spend at the monastery. 4 miles round trip on a wide dirt trail. At the halfway point is a cafeteria - and for most people, getting to this point is the toughest part of the hike. Beyond this, both the scenery and the difficulty of the climb are in your favor.

Hope, Faith and Happiness

United States

Cambodia

How Not to be Templed Out.

Pick out the must-see’s in the mini-circuit (Bayon, Angkor Wat and Ta Prohm in that order), then pick two temples in the grand-circuit (Preah Khan and Pre-Rup are my favorites), and one that requires a car (Banteay Srei or Beng Melea). 

Add some climbing at dawn - at Phnom Krom and Phnom Bakheng - as the sunrises here will sustain you for a whole year of waking up late. 

Pace yourself over three to four days.

Temples and Temples

Chile

San Pedro de Atacama is an oasis within the driest desert in the world at the very north of Chile. At more than 8000 feet above sea level, it sits in the center of a ring of volcanoes, the most famous of them being Licancabur. A couple of them still spew smoke. 
🌋 | 🌋 | 🌋 
Volcano climbing, consequently, is a very popular activity here ('why climb the volcanoes?’ - I ask. ‘Because you can!’- says the guide) and we are quickly put on a 4-day program to acclimatize ourselves to the altitude - with progressively higher altitude hikes to prepare us for the final climb. My favorite part of the hikes is the opportunity to capture the colors of the altiplano! That and the thrill of walking through the Mars like topography of the Atacama desert. 
🧗‍♀️ 
Climb Licancabur if you are an experienced climber, Toco or Corona for one day climbs. And you will have bragging rights forever for having climbed a volcano!

Volcano Climbing

Colombia

Close to the leafy neighbourhood of Laureles is Volador Hill. A quick and steep climb to the top will reward you with 360 degree views over the city and is an oasis of calm amidst the hustle and bustle of Colombia’s second-largest city.

Hike up a hill for a view

The Coffee Triangle - which includes the pueblo towns of Salento and Filandia - has its own culture, diversity, food and of course, coffee. 
[☕️]
I was told that I would find the best cup of coffee in the world in Colombia’s Zona Cafetera. I found some of the tastiest beans in little vintage cafes with vintage coffee machines. The coffee plantations nearby offered tasting sessions too. Part of the fun Is to climb on the back of a colorful Jeep to get to the plantations.

On the Coffee Road, in the colorful town of Salento, the biggest attraction - besides the coffee and the arepas - is its traditional architecture of one- and two-story buildings, with walls painted white, and doors and window frames in the brightest of candy colors.

Coffee Culture

France

This city known for its wine is just gorgeous. Though hot in summer, it is stunning! Definitely worth a visit and if you have time the surroundings small town also known for their wine. 

In Bordeaux, be sure to walk down rue sainte Catherine, the longest pedestrian street in Europe! There will be plenty of shopping to do, and the main square with the cathedral is also a must see. The bell tower is not attached to the church and is able to be climbed for gorgeous views.

Bordeaux

Guatemala

Smoke spewing volcano 🌋 that one can climb, tree blanketed mountains, pastel buildings, cobbled streets and quintessential garden courtyards with fountains give picture postcard views on every corner we turn.

The town Is made for walking with stone arches In bold colors, baroque architecture, churches from Spain and vibrant markets bursting with colorful woven garments like ponchos, hats & table cloth and handicrafts.

It’s the birthplace of chocolate 🍫 and there are several museums that teach how the Mayans made ‘the food of the gods’. Adjoining chocolate cafes serve decadent treats and chocolate liqueur.

The coffee ☕️ is divine too and apart from sampling the local shops, we visited a local plantation to learn about coffee making.

Antigua is one of our favorite Central American cities.

Colorful Markets

Iceland

I love Iceland for many reasons. The road trips are magical - and so is the light - perfect for photography. These are my recommendations for a drive from Reykjavik to the South of Iceland. 

1. Þingvellir National Park: Go to the Visitor’s Center for a great view, and get a driving map, or suggestions from there. Find Almannagjá – the space between the North American and Eurasian continental plates. I love the little church. Lots of easy walking paths.

2. From Þingvellir to Dyrhólaey: Stop at Seljalandsfoss (easy stairs to climb behind the waterfall), Skógafoss (set your tripod in the water to take an iconic waterfall photo, then climb up to the start of the lava from the Eyjafjallajökull eruption), Sólheimasandur (for haunting pictures of the airplane that crashed on the black sand beach, there’s no sign but the coordinates are 63 27.546-19 21.887).

Part 2 coming soon.

Icelandic Road Trip - Part 1

United Kingdom

India

My taxi driver, Chand, tries his best to persuade me to change the plan - “K.R. Market is a complete mess in the rainy season”, he argues, and for effect, twists his head around to the back seat to look at my tunic, shakes his head, and declares woefully — “You will be covered in mud and smelly water”. Sadly for him, I can’t resist a wholesale flower market. 

At sunrise every day, the southern end of Avenue Road lines up with a couple hundred flower vendors. Business between 5 to 8 a.m. is hectic and noisy.. Since it’s well past 10 a.m. now, I weave my way instead through stalls of vegetables, fruits and spices to find the building where these vendors disappear to after their morning sales. 

Chand is right about the mulch smells and slushy floors.  Climb up to the second floor to find a quiet spot to view the action from above. Or wander through the narrow passages, as I do, stepping around baskets full of flowers. 

For the record, my tunic remains mud-and-slush-free.

Bed of Roses

Namibia

I am never going to climb a sand dune again. I say that vehemently (many times) as I climb Dune 45.

After 50 long, sand-filled minutes taken to trudge up, here are the lessons learned: Take slow steps. Barefoot works best. One step forward will indeed feel like two steps backward. Don’t stop. Don’t get disheartened if a sprightly guide whizzes past you in an attempt to beat his own 10 minute record. When you have reached the peak and admired the view, scream a joyful “whee-eee” and slide down the side of the dune, marveling at the roaring sound of the minor avalanche that you will create. 

Ok, can we do that again? 

Nearby is Dead Vlei / Sossusvlei. It’s a kaleidoscope of yellow and orange sands and the white of the stunning vlei. Meanwhile, the oryx are vying with each other to position themselves strategically into my shots. They seem to have no issues with climbing dunes. Then again, I don’t see them doing any joyful slides down.

Don’t Stop

Norway

I N G R E D I E N T S 
One persistent cloud
Assorted resident ghosts
Longest fjord you can find
Pinch of recklessness

D I R E C T I O N S
1. Drive to Flåm. Navigate hairpin bends and tunnels alongside World Heritage fjords. If you plan well, you can even include the 24.5 km Lærdal Tunnel in your route – an engineering phenomenon, with psychedelic lighting.

2. When you encounter an astonishingly long cloud, you know you have arrived. “Flåm” means "little place between steep mountains”. Perfect for cycling and hiking.

3. Stay at the historic Fretheim Hotel – architecturally delightful, white wooden building located at the head of a mighty fjord. The historic rooms are described as places ‘where the atmosphere from the 1800s still lingers’.

4. Try to get up before 10 AM for an exhilarating RIB boat ride across to World Heritage Nærøyfjord.

5. Take the 2-hour round trip Flåm Railway to Myrdal. Climb 900m and see stunning views that only a hairpin tunnel that twists 180° can provide.

Viking Mashup

Our plan: To walk through the magnificent Quiraing and climb to the base of the Needle, a 120 ft jagged pinnacle, for views of the Outer Hebrides.  

Weather forecast? Fair, says Harry, the winds will blow away the clouds and midges.

Highlights from the photo-hike: ☀️Awe-inspiring view of Loch Cleat (above). 💦 Scrambling over the steep cliffs on springy heather. 🐾 Checking out the structures that have been named — The Needle, The Prison, The Table — and naming those that haven’t. ⚡️Noting the exact moment when the weather turns on us. ❄️ Getting shrouded in mist and fog, and unwittingly playing hide-and-seek at the top of the ridge (this is, after all, where locals hid their sheep from raiding Vikings). 💨 Howling winds over 50 mph trying to gust us off the slopes. 💧Rain coming down in full force. ☁️ Feeling my spine tingle as clouds swirl around me in this unreal landscape.

Cinematic Drama

Climbing Mount Whitney was one of the most personally satisfying experiences of my 30s; the challenge and the beauty of the hike were high on my list of life experiences.

Mount Whitney

I have traveled to Moab, Utah on more than one occasion and every time it has been an absolute blast! This small, more local town is home to some amazing things that you can’t find anywhere else. 

There is a place there that I travel to every time called Mill Creek Canyon. It is a short hike to a watering hole that supplies the river you will have to cross more than once. Once you reach the watering hole, you will find an amazing view and usually many friendly people depending on what time you go. 

Now, it can get pretty hot in Utah so don’t forget the water and the sunblock, as well as a swimming suit!

The main attraction there is the cliff jumping! You can climb up the small waterfall and there will be a small ledge where you can jump from into the freezing water below. Let me tell you, it’s an absolute blast that you will never forget! 

I highly recommend this location to all people, even if you’re just passing through

Hope to see you in Moab!

Bhutan

Paro

Hope, Faith and Happiness

Cambodia

Siem Reap Province

Temples and Temples

Chile

Antofagasta

Volcano Climbing

Colombia

Antioquia

Hike up a hill for a view

Quindio

Coffee Culture

France

Nouvelle-Aquitaine

Bordeaux

Guatemala

Sacatepéquez Department

Colorful Markets

Iceland

Southern Region

Icelandic Road Trip - Part 1

India

Karnataka

Bed of Roses

Namibia

Hardap Region

Don’t Stop

Norway

Vestland

Viking Mashup

United Kingdom

Scotland

Cinematic Drama

United States

California

Mount Whitney

Utah

Living it up in Moab