Fogo Island Region | Far Away From Far Away | A visit to Fogo Island is all about the power of culture, art and community as catalysts for social and 

art - Fernwayer Travel Stories & Experiences

Canada

A visit to Fogo Island is all about the power of culture, art and community as catalysts for social and economic change. It’s a story of the indomitable spirit of people who refuse to give up their land.

First Impressions?  Minimalist winter scenery, it’s 🧊 season, one of Fogo Island’s seven  seasons. There are wooden Saltbox Houses, that must have leaped out of a child’s painting book. Reminders of fishing are everywhere. 

My favorite part of the trip is spending time with the islanders who do community orientations and cabin outings for visitors. These are people who are proud of their Irish or English heritage (seven or eight generations in Fogo Island notwithstanding) — who sing songs and tell stories of their ancestors, invite strangers into their homes to share salted cod and tea, take you on ski-doo for ice-fishing, teach you to forage for berries and show you how to preserve vegetables in mason jars to last through winter.

Far Away From Far Away

United States

Chile

The street art in Bellavista and neighboring Recoleta is, in a word, impressive. Some by established painters, others by anonymous artists working in the night.

Colorful, intricate, thought-provoking, and a clever mix of hip hop and political slant.

“I love you as certain dark things are to be loved, in secret, between the shadow and the soul.” ~Pablo Neruda

If you go, check out the art in the streets of Dardignac, Bombero Nuñez, Pio Nono and Purisima.

Street Art and Poetry

China

The charming, well-preserved streetscapes of the heritage town in Old Lijiang Is perfect for getting lost  The winding streets lure you in - and shops selling Tiquanyin tea, handmade paper, musical drums, souvenirs and food vie for the attention of tourists. 

The Naxi people of Lijiang are proud, artistic and musically talented. It's a matriarchal society, one that I relate well to, and I enjoyed my interactions with the wise women I meet.

In the market square in Lijiang Old Town, groups of Naxi women get together to perform a few dances. There is no clear structure for their activity, and the women seem to be on their own schedule - some leave after a couple of dances, others hang around. Besides their traditional costume, what is common among them is their energy and zest for life.

Lost in Old Lijiang

Greece

Pyrgos is a trendy hilltop medieval village. It’s full of little winding, narrow streets constructed haphazardly on the hills alongside multi-colored houses and doors. We lose our way several times and keep looping back to the same point .. using that as an excuse to check out yet another local art gallery constructed unobtrusively into the hillside. 

During the 15th and 16th century, the locals defended themselves from pirates by erecting kastelias .. fortified buildings. Pyrgos has the best example of these medieval buildings on the island. It also has the oldest churches.

We stop at a home with a large blue door .. and the views are stunning but give an impression that Santorini is flat and covered by vineyards instead of being a caldera. 

The one fascinating feature of homes here is a long, deep chimney for ventilation. And the strong winds make howling noises through the chimneys.

In Pyrgos, we visited vineyards ... but that’s a different story.

Old Blue Doors

Greenland

Disko Bay is the Iceberg Factory for 10% of Greenland's icebergs. Sadly, production has increased in recent years, with Spring melts as early as April.

Nothing prepares you for the disorientation - and wonderment - of the brilliance of a midnight Sun. Especially when surrounded by massive icebergs that reflect and mirror the sky and the sea.

I don't remember seeing this yesterday, I tell the boat captain, is this a new work of art? He laughs, and tells me that everyday is  a bit different. 

The midnight boat trip in end-July - as the sun sets just for a few minutes - is the best time to see the sky’s amazing colors reflected on the icebergs.

Iceberg Factory

Italy

A slow-paced night photo walk. On foot over odd shaped cobblestones. 

It does not start well as it starts raining even as we take a cab to Pantheon to meet our local photographer and lose a wallet in the cab. We miraculously get It back (another story) and we start our walk .. lethargic, in deference to summer, but still aware of art and life.

We walk from the Pantheon through Piazza Navona to Ponte Vittorio Emmanuel for views over to the Vatican.  The streets are wet, and Piazza Navona is teeming with Romans doing la passeggiata, an evening ritual I wish we could reapply in other cities. 

Later, joining the locals in their celebration of Summer along River Tiber (Lungo il Tivera Roma) well into midnight, it is easy to forget all about work and settle more definitively into a vacation frame-of-mind. 

Afterwards, a stroll to Campidoglio for priceless views of the illuminated Roman Forum, seems like just the thing to do.

To Rome, With Love

Morocco

Yves Saint Laurent gifted Jardin Majorelle to Marrakech, the city that adopted him and his partner in the 60s. They bought an electric-blue villa and its garden, preserved the vision of its original owner (landscape painter Jacques Majorelle), and opened it to the public. 

What makes this feel like a psychedelic mirage in the desert?

Hot pink bougainvillea bursting from terracotta planters. Architectural cacti in lemon-yellow planters. Bamboos growing against cobalt-blue walls. Colorful birds flitting through palm trees. Saint Laurent’s gorgeous collection of Moroccan art, that I totally covet. 

It also has a museum that features jewelry in a setting that our guide Khadija keeps referring to as “a dream”. A dark room with a star-spangled ceiling and low voltage spotlights shining on stunning jewelry sets.

Khadija’s right. Please let all my dreams be like this place.

Psychedelic Mirage

Public executions at Djemaa el-Fna are a thing of the past, but that’s pretty much the only thing that’s changed in this Square in its millennium of existence. 

Here’s a non-exhaustive list of what you’ll find: Percussionists, Acrobats, Fortune-tellers, Conjurers, Gnawa musicians, Henna tattoo artists, Food Vendors, Snake charmers, Potion peddlers, Un-winnable carnival games. 

As dusk settles over Marrakech, look up at the sky. Follow the direction of what looks like a bonfire of epic proportions. When you manage to edge past the thousands of people, you realize it’s only smoke from kebabs and snails at over a hundred barbecue stalls, staffed by some of the busiest chefs and unflappable crews you’ll ever see.

Look around the Square and locate a restaurant with a balcony. Buy a glass of mint tea and grab a coveted plastic chair at the edge of the balcony to see the grand view of the world’s largest human tableau play out below.

Glorious Mayhem

The riad sends a donkey called Couscous to meet us and pick up the luggage; the taxi will only go so far into the medina. 

As our merry procession winds through the narrow, confusing alleyways, we panic slightly. No problem, says a djelleba-clad staff member, you’ll have a map and cell phone to call if you’re lost. But he graciously accompanies us to our dinner booking and explains how we should get back to the riad. We leave invisible bread crumbs along the way – kebab shop, sweets stall, bakery etc. 

After a long meal, at 11:30 pm, the souks have closed, the streets look very different, and our bread crumbs have obviously gone to bed. It takes two wrong turns and much poring over the map before we find our way back. Our sense of adventure is fully piqued. 

Inside, the restored riad is palatial, with courtyards, heated pool, tiled terraces and stylish artwork. Breakfast is whenever you want, and wherever, says the charming Afaf. 

Shall we move in permanently, we wonder.

Riad Living

Norway

What does teetering on the edge of the ocean feel like? 
🌊
The Atlantic Road is an 8-kilometre roller-coaster stretch of road between Kristiansund and Molde. 
🌉
It skips nimbly from island to island, across seven curvy bridges. The tallest of them, Storseisundet, has a dramatic rise/fall and an impossibly artistic curve. At the highest point, I can actually see the other bridges connecting the tiny islands ahead. 
🎣 
In contrast, the bridge nearby - from where I take this photo - is flat, specially constructed for anglers - and the woman standing next to me comes here every day to catch her meal fresh. She demonstrates how she is only finding small pollock this evening - and calmly proceeds to slash the just-caught fish’s throat before dropping it into her nearly-full bucket. Too much Information, I tell her. She laughs. 
❤️ 
On the hillock opposite the bridge, I count seven pairs of people holding hands and looking out to the water. 
🎢
It is that kind of view.

Roller Coaster

Svalbard & Jan Mayen

On a rainy day, at 78°N, M/S Polar Girl sets out from Longyearbyen to Pyramiden. Even in dreary weather, there is joy in watching the puffins swimming alongside the boat.

Then we step on to the most surreal of ghost towns, Pyramiden, a Russian mining settlement with the northern-most statue of Lenin. 

The decision to abandon in the 90s was sudden. People were given just hours to leave. Signs of a hasty departure are everywhere. Dried up plants. Rusted playground swings. Utensils and stoves left in disarray. Hand-drawn artwork taped on the walls. 

The guide points out the men’s and women’s dorm buildings, euphemistically called London and Paris. Everything is trapped in a 1970s time-warp. A blast from the Soviet past. 

Trust Arktikugol (Arctic Coal), a Russian state owned coal mining company, continues to run this, now as a tourist destination. Perfect for filming a James Bond movie.

Back on the boat, we have views of the glacier and freshly barbequed burgers to cheer us up.

Mining the Past

Forty-five minutes from Palm Springs – or a slightly longer, two hours from Los Angeles - in California’s southernmost Joshua Tree National Park, I’m waiting at the Visitor Center to buy my park pass, and it’s clear that the most commonly asked question of the rangers in this Park is - “Why is it called a Joshua Tree?"

Turns out the giant, branching yucca’s shape reminded early Mormon settlers of a story in which the Prophet Joshua reaches his hands up to the sky. “A good Joshua Tree will be really thick, with arms sticking out like they’re wearing furry sleeves.” – From The Bulletin, in a 1987 article, 7 years before the trees got themselves their own National Park. 

No two Joshua Trees are alike – for that would be too boring. Instead, they defiantly withstand the desert conditions and stretch out in weird and wonderful ways. 

Great hikes, photography, star-gazing. 

[🌵]

Canada

Newfoundland and Labrador

Far Away From Far Away

Chile

Santiago Metropolitan Region

Street Art and Poetry

China

Yunnan

Lost in Old Lijiang

Greece

Decentralized Administration of the Aegean

Old Blue Doors

Greenland

Qaasuitsup Municipality

Iceberg Factory

Italy

Lazio

To Rome, With Love

Morocco

Marrakesh-Safi

Psychedelic Mirage

Glorious Mayhem

Riad Living

Norway

Møre og Romsdal

Roller Coaster

Svalbard & Jan Mayen

Svalbard

Mining the Past

United States

California

Weird and Wonderful